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Design Changes for added bracing....cuts will begin tonight!


magillaru

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How much is the net changing?

2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread

2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount.

Build Thread

 

1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 

 

1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. 

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Well with the number of extra baffles I'm using (x4) and then keeping 2 and adding 2 baffles outside to make up the external port, it's changing quite a bit.

The external dimensions are where I need them....the only thing I can think of is add some 2x4 inside to take up some volume and would add extra bracing too.

I also need to add the displacement for the threaded rods.

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Got it!!!!

If you guys could take a look and let me know how everything looks, I would really appreciate it! Hoping to start building tomorrow!

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t658/magillaru/FINALBOX_zpsc2e98148.png

Made the port walls 1.5" thick each and just doing 4 threaded rods from front to back.

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Close enough. Build that bastard.

2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread

2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount.

Build Thread

 

1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 

 

1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. 

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I'm in for pics of the box. Make a build log man

750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.

^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY :)

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Here's a sketch with the bracing (threaded rods):

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t658/magillaru/0AF3D1AB-415F-4A13-B0CD-9522D88013AD_zpslydphlqa.jpg

Will the rods by the back end of the port negatively effect air flow?

I don't think your threaded rods are really going to do anything for you as you have it designed. They are so close to the side panels and edges of the port they aren't going to add any strength that isn't already there. If anything they may weaken things since you are putting holes through your baffle. What I think you need to brace is your top and bottom panels. I'd put some window braces in there tying your top, bottom, side, and port panels together.

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Here's a sketch with the bracing (threaded rods):

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t658/magillaru/0AF3D1AB-415F-4A13-B0CD-9522D88013AD_zpslydphlqa.jpg

Will the rods by the back end of the port negatively effect air flow?

I don't think your threaded rods are really going to do anything for you as you have it designed. They are so close to the side panels and edges of the port they aren't going to add any strength that isn't already there. If anything they may weaken things since you are putting holes through your baffle. What I think you need to brace is your top and bottom panels. I'd put some window braces in there tying your top, bottom, side, and port panels together.

That's what I was thinking.

I'll mess around with the window bracing. Thanks!

Singer Alternators

Team Asshole

#anothershittysingerbuild

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