Karlswinslow Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 so i just did the big 3 in my car... have a 90 amp alt and yellow top optima infront (nothing in back yet nor h/o alt) before i did the big 3 ovcoarse i would get a little dimming of the lights but after install when the bass hits the dimming is waay more noticeable to the point where i can even notice it in my tail lights if i look closely enough.. is this normal after doing the big 3? I'm hoping you guys tell me its cus of my alt and no secondary batt. lol but its weird since it wasn't doing it before.. i removed a ground wire from the negative terminal to the frame (about 3 inches long) and just replaced it with 0 gauge ground.. someone told me that should be my problem but i didnt think that would make that happen.. idk lol btw.. running a hifonics brutus elite 2500w amp for bass and some bullshit sub.. getting the car ready for my sundowns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 When doing the big 3 you should not remove anything just add to it. Also running a 2500 watt amp on stock electrical your going to have dimming. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karlswinslow Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 so should i put back that small ground wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Yes! never remove stock wiring, only add to it with the big 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Depending on the car you can replace completely. I had a 91 civic and when I did my big 3 I replaced the negatives and added onto the positive wire from the alt. Make sure all your connections are to bare metal. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Stock wiring is on the middle posts of this quad top Blue Top Battery i am running. Better view of it. More like the big 5 on my setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Stock wiring is on the middle posts of this quad top Blue Top Battery i am running. Better view of it. More like the big 5 on my setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karlswinslow Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 my car is a 1990 toyota cressida so when i seen the small ass negative wire i was like... might as well just replace it and not bother back with it.. guess ill put it back. thankfully i didnt throw it away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 What wires did you add for the big 3? You should alt+ to batt +, alt case to batt -, alt case to frame, batt - to frame. Sometimes doing the big 3 can also cause your lights to dim worse as you are now giving the amp the ability to pull more current whereas before it was bottlenecked by your wiring. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 What wires did you add for the big 3? You should alt+ to batt +, alt case to batt -, alt case to frame, batt - to frame. Sometimes doing the big 3 can also cause your lights to dim worse as you are now giving the amp the ability to pull more current whereas before it was bottlenecked by your wiring. That is technically the Big 4 lol, then there's also the Big 5 which is another one I can't remember. In my old 91 civic I dimmed more after the big 3 but had a higher voltage. Seemed contradictory but I said fuck it because all was good. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.