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Banda ICE 2.5k, 2ohm?


AstoSoup

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its refreshing too see amps that dont need to be wired to dick hair .000125 phm to make power. with that being said. Im not buying them just yet

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I found a post on the banda fb group. I'll post a picture here, so people can get a perspective of how well they deal with box rise.


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1996 GMC Sonoma
Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass
2 Ampere 5k's @ .5

TEAM FI
TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO

 

On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said:

Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies.

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Banda's are proven, and very reliable, actually. It's brazilian, it looks brazilian, it's different than what people are used to, so everyone on here will hate on it.

Banda is pretty much the toughest brazilians you will find. A few people are dropping to like 10.x volts while using the 7k amps on bad electrical, and they take it like champs.

So I was looking into an amp that will give me 2-2.5k clean power @2ohms. My other option is .5ohm but I am trying to steer clear of that, as most amps are not half ohm stable. This will be powering two, PowerBass 3XL 1000w D2 15's, giving me a final load of 2 ohms.

Seen the Banda ICE 2.5k, noticed they made a 2ohm version and thought that was pretty cool. They are $435 brand new, shipped, which didn't seem too bad comparing to other amps that are 2.5k @2ohm. Anyone have any experience with these amps? I noticed the power/ground terminals are 4ga., while my Hifonics are 1/0ga. Does this REALLY make a difference? I mean, I can always get Toolmakers to send me some 1/0 to 4ga. reducers, but do such small inputs mean the amp will not draw as much power? I am open to other amps in that price range but want to be clean this is not a vs. thread, so any input is appreciated, even if you think the Bandas are junk, I want to hear it lol. Thanks!

what are you comparing that too? there are no other amps that put out 2k+@2Ω any where near that price range. just by that alone, i'd bet money that the amp in question doesn't even do near rated.

Here you go.

http://youtu.be/bJLZ9rb9Nc8

http://youtu.be/8w8eH_hP_HQ

Thanks, very informative for sure! Look like solid amps and I would be willing to bet they would be a better option than a Lanzar OPTI2000D @.5 ohm. And yes, everyone hates everything seems to be the atmosphere I see a lot on here. People won't give anything a chance unless it has Sundown, DC, Crescendo, or something on it, lol. I mean, if the ICE 3.5k is doing just over rated, chances are the 2.5k will do the same and I don't need much more than rated. Thanks again, couldn't find a dyno test for the life of me on that amp!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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So I was looking into an amp that will give me 2-2.5k clean power @2ohms. My other option is .5ohm but I am trying to steer clear of that, as most amps are not half ohm stable. This will be powering two, PowerBass 3XL 1000w D2 15's, giving me a final load of 2 ohms.

Seen the Banda ICE 2.5k, noticed they made a 2ohm version and thought that was pretty cool. They are $435 brand new, shipped, which didn't seem too bad comparing to other amps that are 2.5k @2ohm. Anyone have any experience with these amps? I noticed the power/ground terminals are 4ga., while my Hifonics are 1/0ga. Does this REALLY make a difference? I mean, I can always get Toolmakers to send me some 1/0 to 4ga. reducers, but do such small inputs mean the amp will not draw as much power? I am open to other amps in that price range but want to be clean this is not a vs. thread, so any input is appreciated, even if you think the Bandas are junk, I want to hear it lol. Thanks!

what are you comparing that too? there are no other amps that put out 2k+@2Ω any where near that price range. just by that alone, i'd bet money that the amp in question doesn't even do near rated.

Comparing to Sundown, DC, CT Sounds, RF... 2.5k @2ohms for $435 isn't exactly a steal. Sure, it's cheaper than some of the alternatives but my budget isn't endless and I really only NEED 2k, the extra 500W is for wiggling room. If you look on the next page, the ICE 3.5k does slightly over rated on the dyno, thinking the 2.5k will do the same. If not, there is a return policy and other amps out there. My thing is, it would be nice to get the power I want, without breaking $400 and this is almost within that range....

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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All in all, between the customer reviews, Youtube vids and dyno results, it looks like the best value in that power range. I could get a DC or something but the price is crazy even on the 2k.... Thanks everyone that replied with helpful information!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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It will be nice too because they do not require as much electrical as their korean equivalents. Less money spent on electrical, less on amp, less spent overall.

Smarter not harder.

1996 GMC Sonoma
Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass
2 Ampere 5k's @ .5

TEAM FI
TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO

 

On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said:

Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies.

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It will be nice too because they do not require as much electrical as their korean equivalents. Less money spent on electrical, less on amp, less spent overall.

Smarter not harder.

Not sure if I translated it right when it was explained to me, but the reason for the inputs being only 4ga. is because the amp needs less voltage to make power. Something to do with the caps if I am not mistaken. This sounds like efficiency to me :)

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Nooo. Not at all the reason.

The way they design the amps is that they realize most people will have a battery or two in the back, near the amp. So the length between the rear battery and the amp isn't that long, a few feet at most.

Doesn't take a huge wire to move that current a few feet. That's why you see korean amps that have huge, multiple inputs, like triple inputs. They assume we're all doing 6 runs or whatever straight from the front battery or alternator all the way back to the amp for some reason. That's the only purpose of having big inputs, to reduce the voltage drop from carrying all that current over long distances.

Anything after that, inside the amp, it all simply gets reduced to copper traces.

1996 GMC Sonoma
Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass
2 Ampere 5k's @ .5

TEAM FI
TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO

 

On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said:

Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies.

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Haha I am calm.

Tomorrow I will :P

1996 GMC Sonoma
Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass
2 Ampere 5k's @ .5

TEAM FI
TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO

 

On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said:

Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies.

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