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Sound Quality Sub Question


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you have a point but also Zed cost way less than any other SQ amps.

i read something about it a few months back about the components they use in class A AB and D.. amps around the power ranger of the zed cost over 1k

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Any other amp suggestions?

Also, do you think it would be worth it to save up and get two of the MKII subs (wired in series to 1.5ohms) and then getting something like the RF T1500 to push them?

My only prior experience with car subwoofers personally was a pair of W0v3 12" JL subs powered by a JL JX250/1. I know, it sucks, it did not know any better at the time. I know how to do install myself now.

So would one MKII be good enough? Or would it be worth it to go for the pair? I hope that isn't too subjective of a question.

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Could go with a pair of the 12's, which are actually much cheaper. Can get a pair for not much more than the single 15". Would get a better wiring resistance, look for 2ohm ratings on amps. More output as well due to more cone area.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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for SQ it would be better to stray away from class D amps class AB amps sound better.. not that class D amps dont work but but class AB sound way better

Lower end Class D, yes. But I'll disagree with you there on the higher end class D. Zed for example.

For my systems -only indoors now- I'm using Class B as AB gets some bad rep for messing up the wave formations in the phase sharing of the transistors, however, I keep seeing more and more high quality manufactures going for some D-Class designs that have really good reviews in the Hi-Fi industry.

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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i did some reading right now and its saying it comes down to engineering. class a are not recommended as they get too hot. AB is best with better efficiency and fidelity. there are starting to make better class D amps. but it comes down to the engineering

Summary

In the end, amplifier classes aren’t necessarily as important as some people might ascribe. Yes, there are important differences, particularly when it comes to cost, amplifier efficiency, and consequently weight. Certainly a 500W Class A amplifier is a bad idea, unless the idea of using your amplifier as an oven appeals to you. On the other hand, the differences among the classes don’t inherently define sound quality. In the end, that comes down to engineering and implementation; at Audioholics, we’ve been lucky to hear (and measure) great examples of all classes of amplifiers. Have a favorite? Make sure to voice your opinion on our forums.

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Could go with a pair of the 12's, which are actually much cheaper. Can get a pair for not much more than the single 15". Would get a better wiring resistance, look for 2ohm ratings on amps. More output as well due to more cone area.

Two MKII wired in series would be 1.5 ohm not 2ohm right? And I am strongly considering getting the pair of MKII 12" over one 12", but I am also factoring in the price difference.

For one: $370 + $270 (sub + JL amp) = $640

For two: $370 x 2 + $600 = (subs + RF amp) = $1340

And after you factor in the box cost, I just don't know it spending 1.5k on subs is worth it to me.

You still think one MKII in properly tuned a made box would sound great?

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I didn't want to read a thousand pages, but I noticed an sa 8 being recommended for the install.. A day of two ago I made a post in the Sundown section about possibly making a lower rms sub with the same characteristics as the X series and Zv4 series as far as sound (low distortion) no high over stroke. Jacob commented saying that the sav2 8 has like characteristics compared to the X 8, if that's the case I don't see why an sav2 8 couldn't be used in a sq install, given that everything is correctly done.. And even at that, it's user tastes and preferences. I could listen to a system that sounds awesome to a person, and I might not like it. I could build a system and that I love and then someone else may think it sounds like trash..

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for SQ it would be better to stray away from class D amps class AB amps sound better.. not that class D amps dont work but but class AB sound way better

Lower end Class D, yes. But I'll disagree with you there on the higher end class D. Zed for example.

For my systems -only indoors now- I'm using Class B as AB gets some bad rep for messing up the wave formations in the phase sharing of the transistors, however, I keep seeing more and more high quality manufactures going for some D-Class designs that have really good reviews in the Hi-Fi industry.

Yep, same here about more and more Class D. Comes more down to engineering and design now, more so than Class. Makes me wonder if it was always like this, and Class D just got it's bad rep from the Boss's and the Audiopipe's (sometimes literally) of the class D world.

i did some reading right now and its saying it comes down to engineering. class a are not recommended as they get too hot. AB is best with better efficiency and fidelity. there are starting to make better class D amps. but it comes down to the engineering

Summary

In the end, amplifier classes aren’t necessarily as important as some people might ascribe. Yes, there are important differences, particularly when it comes to cost, amplifier efficiency, and consequently weight. Certainly a 500W Class A amplifier is a bad idea, unless the idea of using your amplifier as an oven appeals to you. On the other hand, the differences among the classes don’t inherently define sound quality. In the end, that comes down to engineering and implementation; at Audioholics, we’ve been lucky to hear (and measure) great examples of all classes of amplifiers. Have a favorite? Make sure to voice your opinion on our forums.

Only amp I would get with class A is a tube amp. But then we're not talking a ton of power, or car audio for that matter.

There was a blind test done on DIYMA a little while ago, included two class D along with some well respected AB amps and I think maybe one or two class A. Results were surprising to some.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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Depends on the listener. This forum has some extremists that would tell you no but its all about your wants and needs. Yes a one sub setup can sound nice if thats what youre after.

Still learning but have started gathering.

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Depends on the listener. This forum has some extremists that would tell you no but its all about your wants and needs. Yes a one sub setup can sound nice if thats what youre after.

I could always get one and then upgrade to two later if I had to! Thanks for the response!

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