Miguels Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 im planning on doing 5 runs of neg.. 1 per alt and 3 to chassis plus engine. my truck wiring was hacked and im lucky i even have ground in my cab. i can be at 14.8 on alt and battery. my gauges and interiors is only seeing 12.3 and sometimes 9v when bass hits and turns my hu off even though everything else is at 14.8.. i got tonys books to rewire my truck completely my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 thats what im saying. we are all right just misunderstanding each other.. my argument is you can do the big3 to the battery it dont have to be the chassis. for me the battery was closer then the chassis. so it was obvious to run the wire direct. now if my starter battery was in the rear it would have been to chassis but would make sure its done right. things get in the way of the path very easily.. when i wired my alt i ran the positive to alt and neg to alt. car wouldnt start and battery light was on.. the fix was grounding the engine. grounding the chassis wouldn't turn my car either because of the motor mount having rubber to be clear the path to the starter was not complete or was not sufficient I think big 3 using frame as common "grounding" location is best because no matter what percentage of power the alt and battery are supplying, they are all connected to the best conductor/return path Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 That's why I believe in the use of both a alt to chassis and alt to battery ground. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 That's why I believe in the use of both a alt to chassis and alt to battery ground. And batt to chassis Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Well that's a big part if what everyone knows the big 3 as. Figured it was included. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d-nice88 Posted December 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Omg lol so much knowledge from the car audio gods thank you so much so jma do batt pos to alt pos batt neg to chasis batt neg to alt frame then alt frame to chasis then engine to chasis ? Am I gokden if I do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Yeah you'll be fine. Make sure they are all tight and after a few days check them again then after that I like to check my wiring once a month. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 do not ground anything like this this is the reason im not having my audio installed by shops anymore my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Why not? Look how good the heat shrink is. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 let me begin by saying it was not bolted,not sanded down to frame and it was over bed liner. plus all that SPL magic dust they promise they would blow it out.. stuff was blowing in to the cab badly.. tore it down a week later my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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