brent379 Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Posted December 24, 2014 ill have to check that also. would it be bad if the ground wire was like 2-3 feet long, if i had to move them?
brent379 Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Posted December 24, 2014 Ok I did a voltage check! Resting voltage is 14.7. At full tilt, I seen the voltage at the battery and both amps drop to 10.7 a couple times. But it was for literally a split second then back up. I tested this thru a couple of different songs and surprisingly most of the time voltage would vary between 11.8 and 12.4. Then as soon as the bass stopped right back up to 14.7. SO it seems like I'm riding the line between being ok and needing a battery. I want to add one just to be safe
brent379 Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Posted December 24, 2014 One the bright side, the amps aren't completely starving. Full tilt for a good 10 maybe 15 minutes and all equipment was just barely warm!
Bump4life Posted December 24, 2014 Report Posted December 24, 2014 Ok I did a voltage check! Resting voltage is 14.7. At full tilt, I seen the voltage at the battery and both amps drop to 10.7 a couple times. But it was for literally a split second then back up. I tested this thru a couple of different songs and surprisingly most of the time voltage would vary between 11.8 and 12.4. Then as soon as the bass stopped right back up to 14.7. SO it seems like I'm riding the line between being ok and needing a battery. I want to add one just to be safe depending on how good your dmm is im guessing its not fast enough to catch your actual drop. I have a fluke which is fast enough to catch the absolute dip. my guess is you have reached the high 9s. ideally when measuring this voltage drop your gunna wanna play a 40 hz test tone. whats your box tuning actually? if you play around tuning you wont drip as much since the reactive impedence is highest at that point. youll want to choose a bass tone away from tuning to find the lowest voltage you drop to. retest with a tone and report back. if you played music and you are in the 10s i can tell you your alt and battery arent doing their job. or somehow your amp load isnt rising much and you are getting a ton of power out of that 2200. do you have big 3 in OFC or cca? what kinda wire are you running. how large is the wire to the back? Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick
brent379 Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Posted December 24, 2014 I have a phoenix, and a craftsman true rms DMM. not the best out there, but they are definitely not cheap shit. I built the box to be tuned at 36, but I believe 33 is where im actually tuned at.i don't have a measuring device to confirm, but I downloaded a signal generator and 33hz was where the woofers basically didn't move and all sound was coming from the port.and this is perfect, id rather be at 33 then 36 lol I will retest with a 40hz tone and get back to you. while im at it ill clamp the amp and see what kind of rise/power im getting. all my power/ground wire is sky high ofc big 3 done in 1/0....then 1 run from front batt to 2200 in 1/0...and a run from front batt to 4 channel in 4g.
brent379 Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Posted December 24, 2014 Ok retested with a 40hz tone and it wasn't good. Battery voltage was at 14.7 and it just dropped and kept dropping. Tested the battery 3 times, and each time i watched it drop down to 11.4 and alternator started whining so I stopped it because it would have just kept dropping. I attempted clamping the amp and kept coming up with unrealistic numbers, figured out why that was happening, but still not sure if I'm doing it right. Going to do some more research, but I might see if I can get ahold of someone in my area to help me out with it
brent379 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Report Posted December 27, 2014 found a problem tonight. load tested the d3400, 725CA out of 1000. that would explain a lot of the massive voltage drop!
Bump4life Posted December 29, 2014 Report Posted December 29, 2014 how did they test the battery? how did they determine 725 CA? usually its a pass or fail kinda thing. like they apply a load and as long as battery can hold voltage it is "good" still. but either way with what you have you shouldnt drop. i figured something was wrong Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick
Kyblack76 Posted December 29, 2014 Report Posted December 29, 2014 its not the battery. The alt should be keeping you over battery voltages, easy..... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
brent379 Posted December 29, 2014 Author Report Posted December 29, 2014 Tested it with one of the mechanics load tester, FAIL popped up and his shows the voltage and amperage of the battery,
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