PaulPumpsBass Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 What specs do you shop for when shopping for a battery? I see people saying Ah (amp hour), but what other specifications matter? And why do they matter (meaning how do you interpret them)? I'm a no-nothing battery n00b, just trying to learn some thangs. 1994 Mazda RX7 with LS1 Swap and 2 - 10" Kicker L7's in Truck Boxes (because of extremely limited hatch space) 2003 GMC Yukon XL with 3 - 12" MTX 9500's and still has the third row seat (over 7.5 cu ft of enclosures behind third row) 1971 Chevrolet Nova with LS1 Swap (work in progress, most likely 4 - 12" Alpine Type R's as I already have them) 1961 Chevrolet Corvette Restomod with LS7 Swap (system upgrade will be one of the first things that I'll do) Solo Basshead For The Most Part, None Of My Close Friends Have A Passion For It, Nor The Money For It. If I'm Home And Free... Always Looking To Meet Up With A Fellow Enthusiast To Talk Shop Or Do Demos! Hard To Find Fellow Bassheads (Not Crack or Heroin Addicts, I Can Find Them Everywhere) In Baltimore / Mid-Atlantic / DMV areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Did you not read your other threads i posted there is a topic in xs area that tells you my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulPumpsBass Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Did you not read your other threads i posted there is a topic in xs area that tells you I read that and I looked in the XS Power area and I didn't see it. That's why I posted the question here. If you can find the thread... please link it. 1994 Mazda RX7 with LS1 Swap and 2 - 10" Kicker L7's in Truck Boxes (because of extremely limited hatch space) 2003 GMC Yukon XL with 3 - 12" MTX 9500's and still has the third row seat (over 7.5 cu ft of enclosures behind third row) 1971 Chevrolet Nova with LS1 Swap (work in progress, most likely 4 - 12" Alpine Type R's as I already have them) 1961 Chevrolet Corvette Restomod with LS7 Swap (system upgrade will be one of the first things that I'll do) Solo Basshead For The Most Part, None Of My Close Friends Have A Passion For It, Nor The Money For It. If I'm Home And Free... Always Looking To Meet Up With A Fellow Enthusiast To Talk Shop Or Do Demos! Hard To Find Fellow Bassheads (Not Crack or Heroin Addicts, I Can Find Them Everywhere) In Baltimore / Mid-Atlantic / DMV areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 maybe it was some where else... either way id stick with northstar or xs im sure your batteries you where going to get at a local battery supply aren't up to par for car audio it would probably be better to get their agm batts specs and post and ask some one would be able to help you my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandpride684 Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 starter or system... quoted from http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=117 There are three ratings you should check out when selecting a battery. The first is the CCA (cold-cranking amps) rating. This indicates a batterys ability to provide a large amount of current for a short period of time at cold temperatures. (If youre looking for a battery that will be used just to start your car, this is the rating you would be most interested in.) The second rating, and the one that is most important in terms of your system, is the AH (amp/hour) rating. This rating simply states how much current the battery is capable of delivering for a period of time. The larger the rating, the better. Typical deep-cycle marine batteries have AH ratings of 85 to 105. The third rating you should look at is reserve time. Deep-cycle marine batteries really shine here. Reserve time represents the batterys ability to recover and produce electrical energy after a discharge cycle – without re-charging. The longer the reserve time, the better. Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulPumpsBass Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 starter or system... quoted from http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=117 There are three ratings you should check out when selecting a battery. The first is the CCA (cold-cranking amps) rating. This indicates a batterys ability to provide a large amount of current for a short period of time at cold temperatures. (If youre looking for a battery that will be used just to start your car, this is the rating you would be most interested in.) The second rating, and the one that is most important in terms of your system, is the AH (amp/hour) rating. This rating simply states how much current the battery is capable of delivering for a period of time. The larger the rating, the better. Typical deep-cycle marine batteries have AH ratings of 85 to 105. The third rating you should look at is reserve time. Deep-cycle marine batteries really shine here. Reserve time represents the batterys ability to recover and produce electrical energy after a discharge cycle – without re-charging. The longer the reserve time, the better. AWESOME! THIS is the information that I was looking for. THANK YOU! 1994 Mazda RX7 with LS1 Swap and 2 - 10" Kicker L7's in Truck Boxes (because of extremely limited hatch space) 2003 GMC Yukon XL with 3 - 12" MTX 9500's and still has the third row seat (over 7.5 cu ft of enclosures behind third row) 1971 Chevrolet Nova with LS1 Swap (work in progress, most likely 4 - 12" Alpine Type R's as I already have them) 1961 Chevrolet Corvette Restomod with LS7 Swap (system upgrade will be one of the first things that I'll do) Solo Basshead For The Most Part, None Of My Close Friends Have A Passion For It, Nor The Money For It. If I'm Home And Free... Always Looking To Meet Up With A Fellow Enthusiast To Talk Shop Or Do Demos! Hard To Find Fellow Bassheads (Not Crack or Heroin Addicts, I Can Find Them Everywhere) In Baltimore / Mid-Atlantic / DMV areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 starter or system... quoted from http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=117 There are three ratings you should check out when selecting a battery. The first is the CCA (cold-cranking amps) rating. This indicates a batterys ability to provide a large amount of current for a short period of time at cold temperatures. (If youre looking for a battery that will be used just to start your car, this is the rating you would be most interested in.) The second rating, and the one that is most important in terms of your system, is the AH (amp/hour) rating. This rating simply states how much current the battery is capable of delivering for a period of time. The larger the rating, the better. Typical deep-cycle marine batteries have AH ratings of 85 to 105. The third rating you should look at is reserve time. Deep-cycle marine batteries really shine here. Reserve time represents the batterys ability to recover and produce electrical energy after a discharge cycle – without re-charging. The longer the reserve time, the better. Internal resistance is a good specification to go by if you are going to buy a battery for your system. (even though a lot of the manufacterers post as little specs as possible) The lower the internal resistance, the faster it can charge and discharge. Ah and reserve time ratings are pretty much useless for a car audio battery, unless the charging system is not up to par or you like to play with the car off. CCA rating is nice, but manufacterers can cheat, just like with the Ah rating. You should need a graph that shows how Amps vs time, but who does that? Unless you are competing, batteries are just batteries. You won't notice a (big) difference in performance going from a wallmart battery to a XS power as long as the specifications are close. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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