ImaNoob Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 So Is there a safe way to run wires though the door bypassing the factory boot. Its almost impossible to get anything through the harness . So i was thinking of drilling new holes and adding a "Aux Boot" just to run wires from crossover. Or stay with me here..lol can i amp my factory wires from under the dash ? Not really can i , but is it advised ? the amp is t400.2 160ish watts 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Xs3400 1500BDCP FI BL 12 3sq @ 32hz Rockford t675 T400.2 Stinger Deadner Build Log Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 It a pain in the butt no matter how you do it. In my car, the grommets in the doors are long and thin, so I cut open part of my grommet so I could feed the wire into it easier. I just resealed the grommet back with silicone when I was done. It took quite a long time to do all four doors! You could also drill a hole and make your own grommet but I just did not feel like drilling a large hole in my door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 I doubt the OEM wires are thick enough to maintain the voltage(wattage) you want them to. It will work as far as getting the sound to your speakers. I use this trick for running speaker wires through the door boot. You get a flexible drain unplugger like this and snip the barbs off of the sides. Push it through from inside the door and then use electrical tape to secure the wire to it then just pull it through. If it gets tough you may need to use some dielectric grease as lube but it's always worked for me. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 I doubt the OEM wires are thick enough to maintain the voltage(wattage) you want them to. It will work as far as getting the sound to your speakers. I use this trick for running speaker wires through the door boot. You get a flexible drain unplugger like this and snip the barbs off of the sides. Push it through from inside the door and then use electrical tape to secure the wire to it then just pull it through. If it gets tough you may need to use some dielectric grease as lube but it's always worked for me. That only works in some cars. My car is a foreign made Toyota Highlander where everything is small and compact and very hard to access. There was virtually no way I could get the wire through without opening the grommet. But I have seen a lot of cars like pickups where the grommet is so spacious you could fit 4 gauge through it. So I am not saying the method you mentioned is bad, it just might not work for everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImaNoob Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 My issue is there is a plug at the end right under the dash,behind some sheet metal that has my parking brake Riveted to ..( I think Its riveted anyway) it was getting dark at the time, i have to look at it again. I could barley get to the plug with one finger though..The sheet metal was cutting me up..Ill try for some photos of the situation tomorrow.. 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Xs3400 1500BDCP FI BL 12 3sq @ 32hz Rockford t675 T400.2 Stinger Deadner Build Log Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hmm, sounds like a pita, keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImaNoob Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Yeah, this dodge has been a nightmare thus far... 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Xs3400 1500BDCP FI BL 12 3sq @ 32hz Rockford t675 T400.2 Stinger Deadner Build Log Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 i use either a metal coat hanger, or this thin but Very hard hollow tube. almost every car (I've owned) that i do the doors on i cut the grommet, and tape back up later. no door is ever easy man, but i highly advise for you not to use the oem wires. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hard work and attention to details. I've always got new wiring through the factory boot, even if I had to remove some of the stock wiring ... Get to it brother !!! There's no such words as "it can't be done" in the SMD dictionary ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mothra Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 when you say harness are you referring to a molex type plug? if so you really don't have many options. if you just can't get the wire through the boot. I start by running an thin 18 gauge wire first, usually about 2 feet. i solder one end to the actual speaker wire and pull. i also use wire lube too, it helps a lot. if nothing changes, nothing changes You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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