Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mothra

  1. keep in mind that the DD1 is measuring audio signal. just because you are hearing distortion doesn't necessarily mean you have a distorted audio signal. your speakers may be creating the distortion. also keep in mind that setting your gains with the DD1 is getting the most power out of your amp without distortion. example, if you set your gain to 34 without the red light but it comes on at 35. if you boost a frequency, it's like turning the volume up to 35 on that one frequency.
  2. wish I was going. apparently whatever it is the guys at HC were stoked about everything about what they did. When you are going to be the guest at one of those classes? you're next on my list.
  3. the AMM1 is measuring live, so if there is no load there's no measurement. if you have a resistor pack you could use the AMM1 to help set gains. resistors with a high wattage rating become very expensive very quickly. i'd just fork over the money for a DD1 or DD1+. now if you can get a measurement without a load, that's beyond me of how you could make that happen without a resistor of some sort.
  4. no matter what information actually get put out there, people will still buy CCA wire. 2 main reasons, 1 is money and 2 is ignorance (whether it be willing or unwilling). too many people use the excuse of "i'm not good at math" as a reason to be stupid when it comes to anything that has a number. same applies here. companies that make CCA wire are more at fault than the consumers. they advertise fluff numbers to push product.
  5. even if your amp did create a dirty signal at .5 ohms compared to 1 ohm, you can't get rid of that. that's an amp issue. the DD1 is helping you get the gain matched to the signal output from your source with overlap if desired.
  6. resistors oppose current flow not voltage. you'd have to use a substantial value of resistance to lower voltage. example would be using a resistor to get rid of amp turn on pop in Ford vehicles. to alter voltage with resistors you'd have to use it in a voltage dividing network type of scenario.
  7. it's not louder. it's lower in volume by 10db from the original 0 db recording. so when you set the gain with a 0 db tone it'll be at x location, then when you go back to set a 10 db overlap your amp's gain will be set to play 10 db louder to equal the original 0 db tone. test, play tone and set amp with a 0 db test tone then meter it on that tone. then play -10 db tone then set amp gain then play test tone and meter it again. those numbers should be equal to one another. so when you play music which is usually recorded at -3 db to -7 db, it'll still be clean power b/c if it does distort or clip it'll be in such minimal intervals that it won't or should damage anything.
  8. i'd isolate the yellow top, resting voltage is 13.1 on those.
  9. i wasn't pointing out the difference in volume level, I was pointing out that I've had distortion at different volumes when taken at speaker level at the amp and RCA on the same exact vehicle. not saying it's broken, just giving the OP a perspective to possible try at speaker level instead of RCA.
  10. just me personally, i have had varying results going directly to the RCA. on my one of my personal vehicle I have a Pioneer 720BT. Through the RCAs by the amp it would say 1k distortion at 56 and 40hz distortion at 52. then plugged into the amp with connection at the amp speaker terminal, distortion at 61 on both 1kHz and 40hz. while this isn't something that happens all the time, I've just gotten to the point that I only connect via speaker level at the amp or deck.
  11. awesome write up, too bad there aren't more people like Jason being a mentor to the younger people looking to get into car audio. i just work part time as an installer and I try to teach the new guys/gals that this is a really good job and it can actually be a real career path.
  12. I'd be interested in a D'Amore explanation on this. A $400 tool not doing what it was intended to do should be a concern. what explanation is there? the tool works great. I don't doubt that Soundstream 2k is doing 500 watts on speakers. I hate to be the one to inform you that those amps have potential to be "one of those amps"...they aren't what they used to be if you catch my drift. I would like to see one on an AD-1. On speakers though, when they get to moving, they are not 1 ohm any more. Those subs could be as high as 6 or 7 ohms depending on the situation (while moving). Anyway, Please read what Audiofanaticz was trying to tell you guys. Also, please read the book it comes with. As far as hooking it up backwards, don't do that. lol. Red to positive, black to negative. Easy. As far as hooking it up to test wattage, pos/neg dont matter since you are probing the speaker leads not the battery. Are you hooking positive, negative up to the battery and then running the speaker wire through the hole? Pos/neg need to be on speaker output AND one of the wires must pass through the hole at the same time. Not hooked up to the battery. I use my AMM-1 all the time and have made several video's of it in action. If you truly feel your unit has a problem, i can replace it. If you hate it that much, send it back i will refund your money. Simple. But i will tell you this, the AMM-1 is one of my favorite tools and it is no BS. i hear the other side and even you have to admit that all the videos that you have used the AMM1 that none of your videos are on speakers in an enclosure. all those videos are on the load bank from the AD1. you have never put that AMM1 on speakers to show how a sub wired to 1Ω on an amp that puts out X watts at 1Ω actually puts out Y watts. all the videos have been of A amp connected to AD1 on the load selected from the AD1 with the AMM1 in line. Tony did 1 video with it connected to a speaker and just mentioned how subtle things can change output. I'm not on my first AMM1. I'm sure it'll come to you that I started an overly emotional thread about the AMM1 before. I've it replaced and still no change in result. there is little to no users out there that post on the forums and the few that have, have been blasted by the forum for being stupid, not reading the manual, or the best one one "quite using cheap batteries". sorry but i've humbled up several times when it comes to SMD products b/c I own a DD1, CC1, and AMM1. I've owned several of each and even rented them out on another forum. I've had several people literally repeat setting up the device and make no changes and the device not work on the first few times then magically work, then do the same thing on the next amp. I get the pointing the finger at brands not be the same as "back in the day" as most are not but I've had Kicker, RF, Sundown,etc... not even do half of rated when wired below their rated to account for any sort of rise. while I do have an ego, I am surely not one to humble up and apologize for being a dick. I'm more than open to what I could be doing wrong to be getting 1 watt of output from a free air 2Ω speaker on a radio that has a built in amp that suppose to put out 40 watts RMS at 4Ω. i know someone asked but the AMM1 doesn't work on music, it has to be a sine wave.
  13. i have an AMM1 and have tested several amps. I have just chalked it up as a BS tool. I've tried different wire sizes, different subs and all results were horrible. I metered the Sony radio with the "built in amp" and it yielded 1 watt on a 4Ω speaker then I put a 2Ω JBL speaker and it yielded 1 watt. I metered a Soundstream 2k and it yielded 500 watts on 2 DC Level 4 D1 subs wired to 1Ω. I tried one sub wired down to .5Ω to account for any sort of rise and it yielded 300 watts. these are just the most disappointing results. There are very few AMM1 owners as a whole so it hard to get any sort of trouble shooting or support. Since I install for a shop I thought I'd use this heck out of this thing but I can't b/c it simply just doesn't do what it's suppose to do. just simply reading voltage is a failure unless you get the exact wires with the exact polarity correct when probing for your reading. if polarity is backwards on a normal DMM it'll just put a "-" to indicate the probes are backwards while the AMM1 just displays nothing so you don't even know it's backwards, you'd just assume it's the wrong wires.
  14. I, myself, just got in to the market for one of these and noticed that no one has them. Hoping that second gen is for real.
  15. you box did the Scorpion from Mortal Kombat when it fell out the port "get over here"
  • Create New...