Cj Kumz Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Ok as the title states. I have a 3 cube box here with me, and a single sa12 on its way. Will probably be powered by 1500-2000rms. I know recommended is 2cubes but has anyone got experience with a box this big. Gain will also be set lower than usual to account for box size Vw Polo Pioneer Deh-6050UB Sundown Saz-3500d DD Audio 9500 15'' 5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz I live to hear the Bass drop!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 You want to significantly overpower a sub in a box that is too big for it. I foresee a re-cone in your future. That being said, if you can accurately limit the power you put to the sub you maybe be able to get away with it, for a while. If you have access to an AMM-1 that would be the best way to determine how much power your amp is putting out so you can limit it accordingly. If you can't use an AMM-1 there is a way to do it with a DMM, it's less accurate but it errors on the low side so if anything you will be putting out less power than you think and won't cook your sub. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cj Kumz Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Thanks for the info. But is there any downfall of using a big box. What I mean is ofcourse when underpowering a big box is fine but shouldn't there be a max limit to how big a box can be?? Ofcourse we can't go throwing a 1000w 12" into a 5cube box and power with 100w and expect it to work right lol Vw Polo Pioneer Deh-6050UB Sundown Saz-3500d DD Audio 9500 15'' 5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz I live to hear the Bass drop!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 You want to significantly overpower a sub in a box that is too big for it. I foresee a re-cone in your future. That being said, if you can accurately limit the power you put to the sub you maybe be able to get away with it, for a while. If you have access to an AMM-1 that would be the best way to determine how much power your amp is putting out so you can limit it accordingly. If you can't use an AMM-1 there is a way to do it with a DMM, it's less accurate but it errors on the low side so if anything you will be putting out less power than you think and won't cook your sub. Wouldn't it be more accurate to just see/smell/listen? Because how do you know how much power you need? (except modeling, but that can be off by a few hundred watts depending on how the box is placed.) Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Thanks for the info. But is there any downfall of using a big box. What I mean is ofcourse when underpowering a big box is fine but shouldn't there be a max limit to how big a box can be?? Ofcourse we can't go throwing a 1000w 12" into a 5cube box and power with 100w and expect it to work right lol Yes, peakier response, less mechanical power handling, higher group delay, higher peak impedance,... Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Sounds like youre trying to save money on your enclosure. Why not just reinforce the hell out of the box from the inside resulting in less box volume? Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Wouldn't it be more accurate to just see/smell/listen? Because how do you know how much power you need? (except modeling, but that can be off by a few hundred watts depending on how the box is placed.) Sure, you can do that. However if mechanical travel is the limiting factor, by the time you hear that coil smack the backplate the damage may already be done. Or if you break the triple-joint you won't even know you screwed up until your sub is toast. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Why do you give advice to other son box design then ask this type of question? THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Wouldn't it be more accurate to just see/smell/listen? Because how do you know how much power you need? (except modeling, but that can be off by a few hundred watts depending on how the box is placed.) Sure, you can do that. However if mechanical travel is the limiting factor, by the time you hear that coil smack the backplate the damage may already be done. Or if you break the triple-joint you won't even know you screwed up until your sub is toast. Unless the subwoofer is perfecly engineered to have no mechanical noise/distortion up to Xmech, you'll be able to hear it easily.(unless you crank it up as fast as you can...) You won't break the triple joint unless the joint was sub-par or you saw that it didn't get louder or excursion stayed the same and still continued to turn it up more. But how would you exactly figure out how much power you can put to the woofer? Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Unless the subwoofer is perfecly engineered to have no mechanical noise/distortion up to Xmech, you'll be able to hear it easily.(unless you crank it up as fast as you can...) You won't break the triple joint unless the joint was sub-par or you saw that it didn't get louder or excursion stayed the same and still continued to turn it up more. But how would you exactly figure out how much power you can put to the woofer? If you push any sub too far eventually something will fail. I agree with you that the sub will probably tell you before that happens as long as you are diligent and attentive enough. But there is no guarantee that will happen and if it doesn't give you warning it will be re-cone time. It's up to the user to decide just how much risk they are willing to take in the pursuit of more performance. As far as how much power the sub can take, it's rated at 600 watts. I know a lot of folks use a lot bigger amps than that, but I also suspect people are not putting nearly as much power to their subs as they think they are due to things like impedance rise and power factor. The best thing to do would probably be to call Sundown and see what they recommend. If the user then chooses to exceed what Sundown recommends and they break their sub the onus is on them. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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