Karkov Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Nice work man, looking good, Get R done 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rebman Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Today's update. This is a long post... I got the top on and started fiber glassing the curve. I also had a special delivery Saturday, It's a factory battery relocation tray! I am using it for a 2nd battery. Sorry, I didn't snap a pic of the resin on the fleece prior to letting the seat down. I layered the seat with 2 layers of plastic and then taped off the seat since I know this will stick in place. I am using the seat to form the fleece. Now on to the battery tray. This is a GM part, not some aftermarket something or other someone made. GM Part #15246518 found here: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-15246518-Battery-Tray-Right/dp/B00GTJV9RY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1423421086&sr=1-1&keywords=Genuine+GM+15246518+Battery+Tray%2C+Right It only took 20 minutes to install this tray. The battery you will see in the picture is just to show you how it looks, I will not use that battery for final product. I would also recommend a side post only battery, top posts will clear the hood, but if you don't mount it properly and bounce the truck in some manor too much it could short out on the hood. The factory corner top bracket does not go back in after the tray install. It wont clear the battery. I can only assume that since this is a GM part that structurally it is fine. The A/C line rubs a little, I had to tweak the line to hold it off the tray. All in all it only took 20 minutes to install and I didn't drain the coolant. I had enough wiggle room to pull the coolant reservoir out of the way long enough to get the try in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moreno93 Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Alright people. I am considering getting a new headunit with this build. My 01 has a 1.5din opening and I am currently running a SD unit. I am considering a DD unit. I have seen videos where you can get a radio pocket and dash bezel from an 03 and up and convert it to a DD unit but still have to modify the dash at that point for the ash tray. Should I just get a flip screen of go dd all the way? Any suggestions? Metra just came out with a dash kit at CES... those dash's are probably like $400 EDIT: Guess they're only $200 :X Anyways how it everyone and there mother has a second battery location & my truck doesn't Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moreno93 Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Also to OP good work so far your making me think about doing something for 2-4 8" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rebman Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 I have made even more progress then earlier. I will post pics later. I am about to the point of pulling the seat to work on the amp rack. Other than carpet, the box should be done after this last coat of resin dries. I started working on grills for the speakers but the face has such limited space on the outer edges, less than a 1/4 in, there isnt room to make a grill the way I want to. Ill sleep on it, worst case is I buy the premade grills from alpine for these subs, but don't want to spend 30 bucks each on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Mike Mike Mike....Looking good brother. Second battery tray a great ideal. My son has a 93 we plan to get started this spring and you have given me some great ideas. Keep up the good work and tuned in for the finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rebman Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 2 updates today I have the box ready for carpet, I still haven't thought of a good way to do the speaker grills. I have an idea, but not sure if it will work. The weather decided to take a 30 degree drop today. I am glad I got a lot done in the 70's we had yesturday. Current temp is 36 YAY!! Oh well, it's a work in progress. I put a layer of resin on the underside of the trans tunnel and started to spray paint the box in anticipation of where there might be cuts in the carpet to help hide any imperfections. Due to the lack of colors of carpet in my area, I opted for black, I really wanted a dark blue to go along with my interior. This being said i haven't glue any yet, so if someone has some dark blue they wish to donate to my cause I will take what I can get! I got my optima battery back from my wife's car. Hers went dead and in the meantime to get her van going I put in my red top. I bought her a new battery and reclaimed mine. This is the battery I ran in my T/A with the stereo setup I had in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rebman Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Rear seat mod. This was fun doing by myself, lifting the seat is awkward, but I got it done. This mod allows the back of the rear seat to fold flat. I followed this post here: http://www.silveradosierra.com/interior/nbs-rearseat-back-folddown-how-to-t11592.html For this mod. It took about an hour by myself in the freezing cold, but it works like a charm! The only other thing I may consider changing on this mod is a new longer securement strap. For this to work correctly you have to remove the factory strap which keeps the middle of the back portion of the seat more secure. I am thinking some seat belt type material and some gromets and just simply making it longer to bolt it back in place. With that being said though in the event of a crash the length and flexibility of the strap would be pointless as it would not keep the middle of the back portion from moving forward. My goal is to keep this truck as close to stock as I can in the event I sell it down the road. Also as noted in the pictures to follow the mounting tabs on the seat might give me clearance issues for the amps and such on the future amp rack. I have not however heard of anyone else that does this mod for an amp rack noting any issues of the tabs hitting the amps. I would assume this is all in the placement of the amps. Ok, on to the pictures. P.S. I took a before pic of the tabs on the seat but my phone did not save them so I don't have them to share in this post. This last pic shows the tabs that i was talking about at the top of this post. Even in the cold weather I am still trying to get things done. A quick measurement for an amp rack is 30 wide by 14 inches tall. This fits just below the transition under the window and fits between the black padding on either side of the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moreno93 Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 @ OP be aware that there is metal inside the seat that will scratch amps back there through the cloth you can feel it. Just an FYI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rebman Posted February 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Worse comes to worse, I have a friend in the glass business. I can probably get a sheet of plexi or lexan to make a cover for the amp rack if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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