rockFord_Expedition's Rebuild (Old School RF, SMD/D'Amore, CE Auto Electric, DC Power, XS Power, SHCA) lots of pics inside

[rockFord_Expedition]

Yeah i was thinking the same thing, knowing what it's like to want something and not be able to do it.

What about this, I've done this before. take some electrical tape and backwards tape it. In other words, start at the jacket and go around once, then spin it and do it so the sticky side is out and work toward the front so all of the strands stay together, and leave yourself a tail on the end. Like doing vinyl logos, put some soapy water on it so the tape doesn't stick but slides. Get it in the hole allowing the tail to lay down on top of it and out of the hole. Once the cable is in, slowly unwind the tape by that tail and slide it off. Screw down the set screw and bam. Done. You have your 1/0. Just another suggestion.

I don't know if this would work, and I don't remember if you have one, but try crimping the cable itself. I've never tried it so i don't know if it would work or not, but if it does, let me know so I add it to my little book of tricks. LOL

Just different things to think about.

I agree, with the short runs you should be fine with the 4ga, but like I said, I know what it's like to want something and not be able to have it in a build or design.

I know RF puts alot into making their amps, and if this was made by them with 4ga I am confident that it is sufficient. It's just the mental part of knowing that I'm only running 4ga to my sub amp, makes me feel like it's even more of a little boy build lol. But in all seriousness, you are putting alot of thought and effort into this and I really appreciate it. Many people aren't as willing to help and that's too bad.

[rockFord_Expedition]

he confirmed that it will e back next month..

my build will not be done in time to enter but hope he keeps it going.. i dont need gear but would be nice to win. if its something i have no need for and i win i will pay it forward to who needs it..

I will try to keep an eye out. I'd like to enter. I doubt my build has what it takes but you can't win if you don't play.

[Miguels]

you have enough to win it

i will nominate you as soon as i see it open.. just get your box painted or covered to qualify

[rockFord_Expedition]

you have enough to win it

i will nominate you as soon as i see it open.. just get your box painted or covered to qualify

I'll try to snag a couple more cans of paint and primer but with as tight as things are I'd much rather set that cash aside for the carpet and vinyl. I'll do what I can though. If it comes down to it, if I can't enter for a while I won't sweat it too much. I've been through too damn much to let something bother me that isn't life changing. Well, maybe winning SOTM would be life changing lol.

[rockFord_Expedition]

I will try to get a video later of it playing. It sounds good enough to make me happy

[daimer]

Nice build!
I like the way you "overkill" things even if you don't need that. Btw, the tweeters and the capacitor together kinda look like a face to me

Scooter, I have tried crimping bare wire, it didn't work. Maybe if you use a MUCH smaller die it could work, have to try it someday.

For sticking bigger wire than 4 gauge in the cap, you could just cut some strands and use this type of lugs to keep everything together:

The plastic insulation won't fit, so you will have to remove it (it's easy) and put some heatshrink.

Some reducers from CNF/Toolmaker would look MUCH better, though..

Keep up the good work!

[bmxscion]

I know what you mean by the clearance under the end caps. I have a 501bd and two 551X's in my setup and I have 4AWG inputs into all my amps too. I am not running a high power system and have more of a SQ set up but I have a 2AWG OFC main power wire coming from the output side of my circuit breaker under the hood. I have 1\0 CCA under the hood for everything else and into the input side of my CB. I also have an additional 2AWG run plus the 1\0 from my Mechman alt to the battery positive. I have no voltage problems except when cold when it is a little on the high side, but I guess that is a good problem to have.

Build looks sweet and I am following. NIce work so far.

[scooter99]

Nice build!

I like the way you "overkill" things even if you don't need that. Btw, the tweeters and the capacitor together kinda look like a face to me

Scooter, I have tried crimping bare wire, it didn't work. Maybe if you use a MUCH smaller die it could work, have to try it someday.

For sticking bigger wire than 4 gauge in the cap, you could just cut some strands and use this type of lugs to keep everything together:

The plastic insulation won't fit, so you will have to remove it (it's easy) and put some heatshrink.

Some reducers from CNF/Toolmaker would look MUCH better, though..

Keep up the good work!

The problem is, he can't fit reducers into it because of the close proximity of the end caps. Metal touching both of those metal inserts would be bad bad bad, obviously. Or he'd go with 1/0 inserts. That's why we were trying to come up with an outside of the box way to make it happen for him.

Thanks for the input on the crimp. I was actually going to try it today just to see. Would be cool if I could get it to work somehow. But I'm not going to spend too much time on it.

[rockFord_Expedition]

Yeah, like said earlier, I doubt that the 4ga wire is hurting anything. It's ofc and it's a very short run. Voltage stays in the 14's except on the most extreme bass notes. I doubt I'm pulling more than 100A through that piece of wire 99% of the time.

[daimer]

Those inserts are copper with some sort of protective coating that is also conductive, so the inserts themselves won't hurt conductivity. If I undestood correctly that's the thing that bothers you (I didn't quite get the bad bad metal touching metal thing, so I guess you're talking about the inserts).

And instead of crimping bare wire, you could just use these inserts to keep strands together or crimp it with the inserts - it should do the trick.