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choosing hoa!?!?


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Anyway to determine what size hoa I need if I know what I'm running amp/sub wise? I don't get how a 220 amp alternator can support a rated 380 amp amplifier. Even if it's not going to be putting out quite 380, 160amps is a fairly substantial difference.. Also how much can batteries help with this.. say 2 3100s in the back? That's where I'm stuck

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If you already have batteries, and you have a stock alt.

Buy as big as you can for your specific vehicle, if you dont have enough cash I strongly suggest saving more to get said alternator.

Its one of those things that can get expensive, but buy it for what you may upgrade your stereo too, not what you have now.

If you spend $450 on a 250 amp alt now, then in 6 months you go from your 3000ish watt rms amp to a 6000ish watt rms amp and end up with a huge voltage drop thats no good.

So spending that extra $200ish on a 350 or 370 amp alt would be very beneficial instead of buying that $450 alt and then having to buy that $650 alt, and try to sell the old one for $300.

Your just chasing money after money.

 

 

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good advice Brian but then he can run dual alts

im running a 350a on my car. i was originally going to run a saz3500 v.2.. now i upgraded to a 5k.. im glad i went with 350a and not the 220a people here suggest.

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Pretty much what Audiofanaticz said

As to a 220a alternator supplying an amp with a 380a fuse rating... Amplifiers won't be drawing 380a constantly. Music is dynamic, you aren't playing constant test tones for 5 minutes straight. Plus you have box rise to consider which will reduce current draw

IMO get the biggest alt you can WITHOUT sacrificing idle output. Sync up with your manufacturers to figure out what the output for your particular car will be. I've found that sometimes they aren't always accurate. I read every so often that someone buys a 370a alt only for it to be sitting at 12.5v at idle because their car idles below the turn on speed of your alt. If you really want an accurate answer figure out your hot idle speed in gear +/- 10rpm. You'll need a digital gauge or something (see mechanic, they should have a scan tool with a digital readout) and your crank pulley size. With this info they could tell you exactly what your output would be

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good advice Brian but then he can run dual alts

im running a 350a on my car. i was originally going to run a saz3500 v.2.. now i upgraded to a 5k.. im glad i went with 350a and not the 220a people here suggest.

You cant put dual alts in every vehicle, nor is it something a lot of people want to mess with, especially if there is no bracket to make it simple.

 

 

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