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Enclosure modeling, A little help ST 15" aero port.


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Posted

20 hz is this a home theater

lol if I could get my car to sound like one that'd be great! I know most people tune to around 30-40hz, I was just picking 22hz because thats what ST recommended.

So you're thinking that I need to up my tunning freq? I want something that has deep effortless bass, not looking for big numbers this isn't the sub for numbers. But at the same time I don't want a sub that only performs well in a 10hz band so I am trying to figure that one out.

Basically sub stage was an afterthought for me most times...and my ignorance is showing so all the help I can get I would love to hear!

Posted

lol if I could get my car to sound like one that'd be great! I know most people tune to around 30-40hz, I was just picking 22hz because thats what ST recommended.

So you're thinking that I need to up my tunning freq? I want something that has deep effortless bass, not looking for big numbers this isn't the sub for numbers. But at the same time I don't want a sub that only performs well in a 10hz band so I am trying to figure that one out.

Basically sub stage was an afterthought for me most times...and my ignorance is showing so all the help I can get I would love to hear!

Best thing you could do would be to plug all the info into some modeling software (WinISD, BassBoxPro, TermPro, etc) and see for yourself what different tunings and box sizes does to the output.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Posted

OP obviously they recommend that low tuning because the HT line (you guessed it) is for home theater use, the box specs you get are not for vehicle use.

Posted

OP obviously they recommend that low tuning because the HT line (you guessed it) is for home theater use, the box specs you get are not for vehicle use.

...I'm trying to learn here man. I would expect you of all people to want to help with the learning curve because people constantly hit you up for designs without doing ANY of the homework. I am at step 1 of my design.

If I read between the lines you think the specs are ridiculous to go off of because of the environment and I bought the wrong sub for a car. Alright...well then I need an alternative. I was looking at Fi/Image Dynamics/Dayton Audio and some pro audio subs as well. Do you have any recommendations?

Also if I am annoying you don't have to respond. I'll figure it out eventually.

Posted

lol if I could get my car to sound like one that'd be great! I know most people tune to around 30-40hz, I was just picking 22hz because thats what ST recommended.

So you're thinking that I need to up my tunning freq? I want something that has deep effortless bass, not looking for big numbers this isn't the sub for numbers. But at the same time I don't want a sub that only performs well in a 10hz band so I am trying to figure that one out.

Basically sub stage was an afterthought for me most times...and my ignorance is showing so all the help I can get I would love to hear!

Best thing you could do would be to plug all the info into some modeling software (WinISD, BassBoxPro, TermPro, etc) and see for yourself what different tunings and box sizes does to the output.

Understood, and I will do that. I started modeling it in WinISD at home and ran into an error or two with the parameters I was inputting. Apparently thats common so I am working on getting that fixed. Read a couple tutorials last night. Thanks for the help, I sent you a PM too BTW.

Posted

OP obviously they recommend that low tuning because the HT line (you guessed it) is for home theater use, the box specs you get are not for vehicle use.

...I'm trying to learn here man. I would expect you of all people to want to help with the learning curve because people constantly hit you up for designs without doing ANY of the homework. I am at step 1 of my design.

If I read between the lines you think the specs are ridiculous to go off of because of the environment and I bought the wrong sub for a car. Alright...well then I need an alternative. I was looking at Fi/Image Dynamics/Dayton Audio and some pro audio subs as well. Do you have any recommendations?

Also if I am annoying you don't have to respond. I'll figure it out eventually.

You should be able to make that sub work for a car most likely, the only issue (sometimes) is materials not being adequate for car environment if it was not designed for that, not annoyed at all, the thing is that in cars due to the small cabin space you get a serious boost in low end frequencies, that boost is also present in rooms but it's much lighter, you see higher tuning in vehicle boxes due to this.

Posted

lol if I could get my car to sound like one that'd be great! I know most people tune to around 30-40hz, I was just picking 22hz because thats what ST recommended.

So you're thinking that I need to up my tunning freq? I want something that has deep effortless bass, not looking for big numbers this isn't the sub for numbers. But at the same time I don't want a sub that only performs well in a 10hz band so I am trying to figure that one out.

Basically sub stage was an afterthought for me most times...and my ignorance is showing so all the help I can get I would love to hear!

Best thing you could do would be to plug all the info into some modeling software (WinISD, BassBoxPro, TermPro, etc) and see for yourself what different tunings and box sizes does to the output.

Understood, and I will do that. I started modeling it in WinISD at home and ran into an error or two with the parameters I was inputting. Apparently thats common so I am working on getting that fixed. Read a couple tutorials last night. Thanks for the help, I sent you a PM too BTW.

Start in win isd, and then double check everything with torres; at least thats what i do. To correct your problems with win isd try downloading the regular version, when i downloaded the pro version it was kinda odd with how parameters were entered in.

2014 JKU

Sound:

pioneer xav-65

4 12in pioneer tsw3003d4

2 pioneer gm-d9601

(much more in route)

General:

18in worx rims

33in tire

stinger src bumpers

light bars

6k hids

2in leveling kit

3.25in lift

The Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195839-2014-jku-build-4-12s/

Posted

OP obviously they recommend that low tuning because the HT line (you guessed it) is for home theater use, the box specs you get are not for vehicle use.

...I'm trying to learn here man. I would expect you of all people to want to help with the learning curve because people constantly hit you up for designs without doing ANY of the homework. I am at step 1 of my design.

If I read between the lines you think the specs are ridiculous to go off of because of the environment and I bought the wrong sub for a car. Alright...well then I need an alternative. I was looking at Fi/Image Dynamics/Dayton Audio and some pro audio subs as well. Do you have any recommendations?

Also if I am annoying you don't have to respond. I'll figure it out eventually.

You should be able to make that sub work for a car most likely, the only issue (sometimes) is materials not being adequate for car environment if it was not designed for that, not annoyed at all, the thing is that in cars due to the small cabin space you get a serious boost in low end frequencies, that boost is also present in rooms but it's much lighter, you see higher tuning in vehicle boxes due to this.

Thanks man really appreciate it, I'm at work so may have read more into than what was there, my fault, I gotta do more research it seems like. I saw a video a little while back with these subs and I forget who it was but from what he was saying it sounded really good and I loved the adire and shiva subs and ST used to make a line that was comparable.

I am going to look into it though and I will keep that in mind, I gotta research tuning freq a lot more though it seems. I thought I was going to jump into it.

Posted

lol if I could get my car to sound like one that'd be great! I know most people tune to around 30-40hz, I was just picking 22hz because thats what ST recommended.

So you're thinking that I need to up my tunning freq? I want something that has deep effortless bass, not looking for big numbers this isn't the sub for numbers. But at the same time I don't want a sub that only performs well in a 10hz band so I am trying to figure that one out.

Basically sub stage was an afterthought for me most times...and my ignorance is showing so all the help I can get I would love to hear!

Best thing you could do would be to plug all the info into some modeling software (WinISD, BassBoxPro, TermPro, etc) and see for yourself what different tunings and box sizes does to the output.

Understood, and I will do that. I started modeling it in WinISD at home and ran into an error or two with the parameters I was inputting. Apparently thats common so I am working on getting that fixed. Read a couple tutorials last night. Thanks for the help, I sent you a PM too BTW.

Start in win isd, and then double check everything with torres; at least thats what i do. To correct your problems with win isd try downloading the regular version, when i downloaded the pro version it was kinda odd with how parameters were entered in.

yea I was having an issue with it erroring out until I removed one of the T/S parameters. I think I did it backwards which could have been my problem. I'll play around with it tonight and see what I can make happen.

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