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Recommended Mids/Highs Amplifier


jazzie366

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Hello!

I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra, it's my first car and I love car audio so I put a massive amp and subwoofers in, with a mids and highs amp. There is a problem though, the mids and highs amp isn't powerfull enough/distorts at too low of a volume to overcome the bass.

I'm running two Pyle Blue Wave 1200 watt subwoofers on a Powerbass 1200.2X, in a box that matches their needs damn near perfectly.

Anyways, I have a shitty walmart Pioneer amplifier for the mids and highs and it likes to distort, a lot. I have some FMod passive crossovers inline for 200hz right now--yes, I know the frequency is high, but the crossovers let block all subsonic frequencies, and damnpen the higher ones up to 200hz, so the mids stay warm-- but that doesn't help because the amp is shit.

I opened the amp and checked the output transistors, not only where there a lack of output transistors, they were not large enough for the power either. I'm not bashing on Pioneer, they make amazing head units, but their amps need some work.

So, what do you guys recommend I do? I got my eyes on a Hifonics Brutus BRX160.2 (CEA-2006 certified) amp. Thanks for the help!

Also, I do know it's the amp's fault. It's not CEA-2006 certified, and as I said before, it does NOT have output transistors that are capable of putting the power out, it has 4 main output transistors of very small size. It also lacks in capacitors as well, it has one capacitor that looks to be for the soft turn on feature, and then another for the amplifier itself.

The speakers I am running are Pyle Drive PLG6C component speakers.

I have my gains set to where the amplifier does NOT get hot at all, I am sure of this. Also sure of no distortion until I set gains higher, in which amplifier will heat up.

P.S. - I need a new battery, the 7 year old battery dies in 30 seconds of 70% volume, I have 0 gauge running it all. Thanks!

The name, the avatar, the interests,,,,,,,

Fag.

I get that a lot, and I say the same to all.

Your hate feeds me like I feed my dick to your mother to birth fuckers like you into the world so I can abandon them in the street.

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You know it all all ready so why ask us anyways?

Second opinions, something that people ask for when they're unsure of something.

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well we are all sure you're quite wrong. and just another .02 cents.... the gain IS NOT A VOLUME NOB, it has one correct setting and needs to stay there. you saying you can't crank up the gain nob shows a whole lot about the knowledge coming to the table. but get that hifonics amp and crank that knob on up, we'll still be here with the real knowledge for the people who want to learn

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Hello!

I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra, it's my first car and I love car audio so I put a massive amp and subwoofers in, with a mids and highs amp. There is a problem though, the mids and highs amp isn't powerfull enough/distorts at too low of a volume to overcome the bass.

I'm running two Pyle Blue Wave 1200 watt subwoofers on a Powerbass 1200.2X, in a box that matches their needs damn near perfectly.

Anyways, I have a shitty walmart Pioneer amplifier for the mids and highs and it likes to distort, a lot. I have some FMod passive crossovers inline for 200hz right now--yes, I know the frequency is high, but the crossovers let block all subsonic frequencies, and damnpen the higher ones up to 200hz, so the mids stay warm-- but that doesn't help because the amp is shit.

I opened the amp and checked the output transistors, not only where there a lack of output transistors, they were not large enough for the power either. I'm not bashing on Pioneer, they make amazing head units, but their amps need some work.

So, what do you guys recommend I do? I got my eyes on a Hifonics Brutus BRX160.2 (CEA-2006 certified) amp. Thanks for the help!

Also, I do know it's the amp's fault. It's not CEA-2006 certified, and as I said before, it does NOT have output transistors that are capable of putting the power out, it has 4 main output transistors of very small size. It also lacks in capacitors as well, it has one capacitor that looks to be for the soft turn on feature, and then another for the amplifier itself.

The speakers I am running are Pyle Drive PLG6C component speakers.

I have my gains set to where the amplifier does NOT get hot at all, I am sure of this. Also sure of no distortion until I set gains higher, in which amplifier will heat up.

P.S. - I need a new battery, the 7 year old battery dies in 30 seconds of 70% volume, I have 0 gauge running it all. Thanks!

The name, the avatar, the interests,,,,,,,

Fag.

I get that a lot, and I say the same to all.

Your hate feeds me like I feed my dick to your mother to birth fuckers like you into the world so I can abandon them in the street.

So, since I am willing to bet $ that you never fed your dick to his mother, does that make your entire statement invalid since the foundation of it is untrue?

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