dcannon729 Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 I'm going to be building a box for my 1996 Honda Civic EX, and it's going to be tuned to ~32Hz. My sub is a sundown audio SD-12 D2. The question: If i have a single sub like this in a not so big box, should i be fine without baffles or bracing? I also don't fully understand what those things are... So anyone who can explain those would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys. -Dylan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 Here's a box with a two layer baffle and two cross braces: Fow a low power, low weight sub and a small box like you are doing they are not necessary unless you are using thin wood, if you build the box badly I don't think bracing will make that much of a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 Baffle = the board the sub mounts to (the one with the hole for your sub) Bracing is wood or metal used to squeeze the box together so there is no flex.. If you are using 3/4 mdf or birch i would say your ok with no extra bracing or baffles Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 Here are the bracing guidelines I try to stick to with the cabinets I build: 1. Keep unbraced spans appropriate for material used. (Under 12" for 3/4" MDF) 2. Brace across to opposite panels when possible, otherwise brace to adjoining panel. 3. Minimize bracing in corners where it is un-needed. 4. Take up the least amount of internal volume as possible. 5. Minimize bracing in high airflow areas. I apply these guidelines to every cabinet, regardless of the size of sub or power being used. While this may result is more bracing that absolutely needed, to put it in perspective, the hifi home audio guys still brace cabinets for little 6" midbass drivers that are only going to see 25 watts max. Depending on the size of the cabinet, I may not need to add any additional bracing at all, or I may need to do quite a bit. If you post a picture of your plans I'd be happy to give you my opinion on what to do. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff4661 Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 Here are the bracing guidelines I try to stick to with the cabinets I build: 1. Keep unbraced spans appropriate for material used. (Under 12" for 3/4" MDF) 2. Brace across to opposite panels when possible, otherwise brace to adjoining panel. 3. Minimize bracing in corners where it is un-needed. 4. Take up the least amount of internal volume as possible. 5. Minimize bracing in high airflow areas. I apply these guidelines to every cabinet, regardless of the size of sub or power being used. While this may result is more bracing that absolutely needed, to put it in perspective, the hifi home audio guys still brace cabinets for little 6" midbass drivers that are only going to see 25 watts max. Depending on the size of the cabinet, I may not need to add any additional bracing at all, or I may need to do quite a bit. If you post a picture of your plans I'd be happy to give you my opinion on what to do. Spot on definition, very well spokenn Current build 05 Yukon SLT http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195350-jeffs-05-yukong-wall-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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