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Black Beauty Project Build - 06 Ford F-250 Super Duty **1/27/18 - New pics starting on page 41**


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Sorry guys, I know it's been a while since any updates. Just been a lot going on. Had some stuff I had to get done on the truck and that's been done. Trying to get some other life things under control and then I'll get back on this. I really want to get it done so I can start installing. I really am missing bass, and good sound in the truck. I'm aching for it. So I'll get some stuff done soon.

NOTHING HAS CHANGED!!!! No changes are being made, things are still proceeding as planned, just life is in the way right now a little bit. I think we can all relate some way or another.

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  • 1 month later...

Well folks, after a busy few weeks, months, whatever, I'm trying to get back at it. I started working on the DSU again tonight. Did some changes on the knobs, that will either work, or I'll be out $24 and back to where I started and have to order more knobs. But I think this will work just fine. Have some more de-soldering to do, and then I can start testing connections and make sure things all check out. Then it's on to wiring it up and putting it together.

So things have started back up. Still going to be slow as hell. For instance in a couple of hours I got only 2 knobs stripped and ready to test tonight. But that's the way it goes. I'll update in a day or two when I can with pictures.

That is all! Good night!

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Last night I was able to complete a small step to the remote. I also uploaded some pictures which I'll post here.

Recall when I ended off last time, I had the 4 knobs sitting in the case for the remote.

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I don't recall, without going back and looking, but one of the things I was concerned about was that the knobs, with the boards on the bottom, and the solder pins sticking through the boards, were so close to the case, I was afraid of shorting out, or signal issues. I was looking into a few different things to be able to seal up, or divide, between the board solder joints and the case, but I just didn't trust anything to be able to stay strong enough. Vibrations, movement, etc, seems to me like they would puncture any plastic or anything like that, and obviously metal wouldn't work. There's maybe 1/16" of clearance between them. So it'd have to be thin.

I came up with a solution that I think will work very well. That's what this is, let's take a look!

Taking a look at the knobs and how they're put together. I'm not happy with how close they sit within the metal chassis of the remote frame. SO, I'm thinking I'm going to make a change here.

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Yep, I went there. Now we're really getting custom!

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Desoldered and cleaned up! Ok there's one! 4 more to go!

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Got them all cleaned up and de soldered and now we're ready to get down to business.

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Let's test them and make sure I didn't mess anything up! LOL

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We're all good. All tested fine.

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Little cheap Hobby Lobby CA Glue. I know I need to get me some good stuff. It's on the list.

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This is how I need them to sit. So let's put them together!

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Little dab here and there, and we have two.

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A couple more dabs and there's three.

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Just like that, 4 boards = 1 board!

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Next I glued the knobs on the boards. These were difficult to get straight. But I think i did an ok job.

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There we go. It's a little rough, I admit, but for a first time doing a project like this, I'm ok with it. Everything is testing out ok with the DMM.

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Now that the unit is together, it's time to start getting it wired up. More prep work for that unfortunately.

Using some Gepco 61801EZ cable that I usually use for RCA's. I had it and it's small. I figured since it's used for signal wires anyway, it would be useful for what I'm doing here which is dealing with signals.

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More numbers if you want to get some to use.

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Here's what's inside. Bare drain wire, and a pair of 22awg wires, one red and one black.

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Got the wires all cut down to size. 12 blacks, and 12 reds. I am NOT looking forward to stripping the ends on these.

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See the red one down on under the red pile. Yeah that's what I have to do. 1 down 23 to go!

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Ok, all wires stripped. Lets have some soldering fun!

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All the black wires in and ready to go. I had to check, double check and triple check this before I started soldering. Probably should've made my wires about 1/4" longer. Oh well. I didn't find that out until later.

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All soldered. Time for the reds.

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These all have to be bent like this. This is going to be fun...............sarcasm!

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Everything is in place and ready to be soldered to the boards now. This is where I found out I needed about another 1/4". This will work, but a little more length would've been nicer. I'm sure there's a joke or two in there. LOL

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Got them all soldered up, and happily in place.

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Next up, I need to get the inputs, outputs, and grounds soldered up. I wanted to get a remote power on off button in this, but unfortunately, there's just not enough room. So I'll have to incorporate one somewhere else. I also know I need to work on my soldering skills. They're lacking!

I do have a question. Maybe some of you electronics guru's can help me with.

Here's a picture of the board with the old rca connections for reference.

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On the board, it has "GND" on the left side, "IN" next, "OUT" next, and "GND" on the right side. You will also notice, that each signal wire (L and R) has a GND wire to go with it. On the board itself, there is a circuit line under the green, and it ties all 4 GND's together. The Gepco wire I have and am using has 2 wires and a drain. The drain is the bare and should go to GND. I should be able to do a single GND wire, and then say Black for Left and Red for Right and not have to add a separate GND wire correct?

I think the reason it had individual GND wires on the old set up was because it was an RCA end that it was going to, where it needs a GND and a Pos to complete the signal. In this case, I'm hard wiring it, and then it will go into the SDU. At that point I can split the GND to go to each output RCA Jack to complete the signals.

DOES ANY OF THAT MAKE SENSE TO ANYONE ELSE BESIDES ME! LOL

Another question, as far as for wire quantity inside this small remote box, is a ground a ground is a ground? So try to follow. I have 1 main line coming into the Remote Box from the SDU, which is being fed from the BLD. Then I have the main volume knob. The outputs are going out back to the SDU, but also going to feed the inputs of the other knobs. Can I just tie into the GND wires on the one board. You know what, I'll do a diagram I know that's not making sense.

This is the way I am thinking of wiring this up.

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All Black wires in the Diagram are GND wires.

The far left knob is the main volume knob. Left side of that is the input, as are all of the rest of the knobs.

SO I have the black ground coming in, the red right, and light blue left. These are fed in from the SDU, from the BLD output.

Then out, I have the red right and light blue left going to all inputs of the other three knobs, as well as out to the SDU for the front volume feed. I'm also looping the GND spots over the top as you can see with the black going to each GND side.

Then there are individual GND wires going out to the SDU and as you can also see that each knob has it's own output signal wires.

Second knob has purple for right and lilac for left.

Third knob has orange for right and yellow for left.

Then the fourth knob, right end, has dark blue for right and grey blue for left.

Does anyone see any issues with this wiring?

Ok onto more this weekend. I need to get the Outputs and Inputs wired up, and then connect them to the HDMI breakout board. Once that's done, I can cut the case down, and then make the ends to mount everything to, and the remote will be done. Then I can move onto the complicated SDU main body itself. Lots of wiring and stuff to do with that. Going to be fun! Stay tuned!!

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I am not worthy od what's going on in this thread, but, damn son keep up the good work! More courage than I have when it comes to this type of stuff. Super impressed man......

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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