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Amp not getting proper voltage


JakeMN

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So I've had an IA 10.1 in my car for about 2 weeks after blowing up an SAE-1000d. My power and ground read 14.2-14.4 but the amp won't turn on. Remote turn on is reading 12.4 also.. I checked the voltage when the power and ground were hooked into the amp and got 6.95. Did I blow this amp up as well? It doesn't seem to be a problem with my wiring.

Update: So I went back in and checked everything which included the continuity of my ground the correct way and it read .01/.0. Here's some pics of the voltage and my ground...

Battery voltage

QHZ3IsL.jpg

Voltage at end of my wiring run before I hooked it up to the amp

DsRVyLf.jpg

Voltage after I'm hooked into the amp

gs1gF3u.jpg

Picture of my ground

l3eFa74.jpg

This just leads me to believe that my amp is blown? What would cause this to happen....

Bass head in training. Trying to learn everything I can.

2014 Dodge Dart GT

Synergy Audio WFO 15.1 V2 (Prototype)

Sundown X12

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Not a single light, Ive had it for about 2 weeks and it's been working great up until a day ago. I'm reading voltage right from the power and ground wire hooked up to the amp. There's just enough room for me to stick my probes on the wire and get a reading where I stripped and inserted it into the amp. I can post pics of wiring and ground in the morning, I'm working right now.

Bass head in training. Trying to learn everything I can.

2014 Dodge Dart GT

Synergy Audio WFO 15.1 V2 (Prototype)

Sundown X12

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Just for future knowledge, you can touch the leads to the set screws that hold the wire in and get the exact same reading.

As for your issue:

You measured the proper ~14VDC at the power wire that goes into the amp? Or at the battery? And then as soon as you insert that power wire it drops to 6-7VDC?

And it did the same thing with the SAE 1000.1?

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Ah, that'd make sense.. And I got proper voltage AFTER the fuse holder which is 6 inches away from my battery. I also got at the end of my run before the amp. I didn't get pictures of the ground but it is a couple inches away from my seat belt bolt bracket. I sanded down to bare metal and use a bolt and washer to secure it.

What happened with my sae-1000d was different.. The sae-1000d worked for about a month and then went into protect. I reconnected it and it blew my 80amp online fuse and then got the magic white smoke after I replaced the fuse... It's currently sitting with Sundown waiting to be repaired.

Bass head in training. Trying to learn everything I can.

2014 Dodge Dart GT

Synergy Audio WFO 15.1 V2 (Prototype)

Sundown X12

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It's connected to 2 pieces of sheet metal that are near the unibody. I'm not sure if I checked the continuity of the ground right yesterday either. I hooked up my DMM, changed it to ohms, and then put the negative on the ground and positive on the power wire while it was not hooked up to the amp and it was reading 0 ohms. Normally it will say L for low signal but it was sitting at 0.

Bass head in training. Trying to learn everything I can.

2014 Dodge Dart GT

Synergy Audio WFO 15.1 V2 (Prototype)

Sundown X12

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I reconnected it and it blew my 80amp online fuse and then got the magic white smoke after I replaced the fuse...

sundown requires 120 amp fusing for the SAE-1000d

Recommended Fuse Rating: 40A x 3

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-12417-sae-1000d-sundown-audio-monoblock-1000w-rms-digital-class-d-amplifier.html

Would that cause the amp to blow though? The IA 10.1 is rated at 125a.. My 4ga Knu cca wire came with the 80a so I didn't want to allow more power through the wire then I was suppose too. I've been wondering if I should ugpgrade to 1/0 ofc. It's only for 1000w though.. I'm running one SA12.

Bass head in training. Trying to learn everything I can.

2014 Dodge Dart GT

Synergy Audio WFO 15.1 V2 (Prototype)

Sundown X12

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