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I'm wanting to setup a home network for lack of a better term. Basically I'm just wanting to wire up the main devices because we are having problems with having all but one device ran off WiFi and have a router for the other stuff.

The problem is that it is hard or impossible to watch Netflix on the bluray if someone is on the laptop or ps3 gaming even the wired tower sometimes the WiFi just cuts in and out for no real reason.

Devices

1 tower(gaming) (wired)

1 PS3 (same floor 10ft away) (WiFi)

1 tower (misc- 1 floor up 20ft over) (WiFi)

1 bluray (streaming Netflix/Pandora- 1 floor up other end of house ~60ft) (WiFi)

2 laptops (gaming/streaming- anywhere ±1 floor ~75ft out) (WiFi)

2-5 cellphones (WiFi)

All WiFi devices are running on 2.4gHz.

Equipment and specs

Mediacom internet 50 down, 7 up

Router- netgear wndr3400 dual band 2.4/5gHz

What my plan was was to re locate the modem to the basement, get a switch probably an 8 port, and then wire in the 2 towers, the PS3, and the bluray, then also wire the router in in a central location. I planned on getting a 500ft spool of cat 5e and doing all the wiring myself. Separate run to each device. May do a wall plug at each location.

Basically does the plan sound good? Is the internet connection sufficient for the devices? Is it difficult to fish wires in walls and crimp the jack on the end of Ethernet cables? What switch do you recommend for under $50 that will provide the best performance? How easy is it to add a hard drive and create a network attached storage point?

I thinks that's all I have.

Thanks you very much guys. If there's any questions just ask me.

Cody C.

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
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Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

-Member of Team SounDrive

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My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

-Member of Team SounDrive

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Unless you have the crimping tool and know exactly what color wire goes where i would just get the premade ones.

The crimping tool isn't all to expensive but can take a few to learn to get it right.

Now with the network i'm out of my league there and have little real info to share.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

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Do the speed test as suggested first.

The real quick down and dirty of how wireless works, only one device can talk to the router at a time unless it's MIMO (multiple in multiple out) usually has multiple antennas (this is by no means all of how it works.) Since your router is dual band (2.4ghz and 5ghz) it has two radios one for each band so only one device per band 2.4ghz/5ghz can talk at any given time.

Try this first separate the devices.

Put devices that can use the 5ghz band on that network and anything that doesnt on the 2.4ghz network. This may help by separating some of the traffic. Hard wire any devices that you can.

Your plan for wiring is solid (get things off the wireless networks) but you could run into issues while running cable from first floor to the 2nd floor.

The plates that separate the top floor from bottom may be a pita to get through with cabling without special drill bits and other tools like fish tape or fish polls.

The router you have got horrible reviews on newegg.com and I have never had good luck with Netgear home stuff... A MIMO router may be a cheaper solution than wiring the whole house.

I do networking for a living if you have any other questions feel free to ask away.

Under Construction

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It speed tests good. Usually around 50 down and 6-7 up. Peak hours like 40down 4 up. To Chicagb which is bout 250mi. But every single WiFi thing is run off the 2.4ghz. I wish the ps3 and laptop could be ran on 5 but they can't for some reason. Only 5ghz capable things are phones which if not in the same room they have shit reception. Why I'm wanting to do it myself is I have no clue the length needed so I don't want to be short in a wall somewhere. I can feed them with the cable since it is ran to all rooms from the same location also.

Router was recommended at the time by best buy when we first got it for a single ps3. Big mistake now. Now I'm wanting to future proof everything.

Of I did not say the word will be cat5e. I can get a smaller 500' spool at Menard's which would be perfect including patch cables. Will most likely do wall ports also. Does it matter the orientation of the wore at the plug? Like reversed or do they have to match up? I've seen both so I'm just trying to figure it all out. Total I'll have 8 crimps if I do premade patch cables. Otherwise bump that to 20+. It may not happen for a bit but I wanna get it figured out first.

Now what can u recommend for a switch box? I'd like one that can be future proofed as I'm finding a ton with one or 2 gigabit ports then 2/3 100M and a single 100M/10M but I'm looking to keep them all as fast as possible. Wires in back just to keep it clean as I don't have or plan on making a server rack. Front only lights to show status. 5 port minimum. And last question. With all this going on just to confirm do u think our service is fast enough? They do have a 100 down 10up or a 150 down 15 up service I think too. I'm in a gigabit city so maybe in the future I can connect to that. But for now plan on cable high speed internet.

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

-Member of Team SounDrive

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With all those devices on the 2.4ghz band its just over crowded, I would say your internet speed is fine. (You can always increase the speeds later if needed)

Any unmanaged switch will work make sure its 10/100/1000 or gigabit on all ports you may see both terms. Any brand is fine linksys, netgear, tp-link etc.

I will stay away from listing a brand of switch, I haven't used the small switches and couldn't tell you if one is better than the other.

The wiring does matter, when you buy the jacks they will have the color code on them TIA 568B is industry standard. Wire both ends to that standard. Should you decide to crimp one end videos and pin outs can be found all over the internet.

Here is how I would do it, if it was me:

Modem to router (1 cat5e cable)

router to switch (1 cat5e cable)

switch to patch panel (1 cable per port used)

12 port patch panel near modem/router/switch.(http://www.callcct.com/12-port-cat5e-patch-panel.html?sc=2&category=24051)

Run cable from patch panel to each wall jack(keystone jack)

Connect devices to wall jacks ( keystone jacks) using premade cables

Label each connection on the patch panel so you know what room each port connects to

This site has great prices on keystone jacks and wall plates and premade cables http://www.callcct.com/

This site has about the cheapest CAT5e I can find in bulk https://www.firefold.com/bulk-cat5e-solid-cable

I would recommend a 1000' box of cable, once you start going into walls you go through more cable than you think pretty quick. (Leave extra 2' or so on each end and tuck it back into the wall)

The method i listed doesn't have you doing any crimping.

I recommended a punch down tool for the patch panel and jacks (patch panel comes with a cheap plastic one I don't trust them)

punch down tool http://www.callcct.com/punch-down-tool-low-high-impact.html?sc=2&category=845

A cable tester wouldn't be a bad investment either, cheap ones can be had for about 20-30$ ( https://www.firefold.com/rj45-tester )

Since you have coax cable already run I would use a wall plate with 2 ports (http://www.callcct.com/wall-plate-2-port-white.html) your keystone jack in one and a F-type insert ( http://www.callcct.com/jack-f-type-white.html ) for your coax cable. This will give you a nice finished look and both ports on one wall plate.

Hope this helps. Take your time doing the install, and everything should be fine.

Under Construction

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One more question. Why run to router first? I was going to put that on its own run since it will be on the main floor with a floor up and down. But the switch will be in the basement.

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

-Member of Team SounDrive

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Your signal from the modem has to go to the router first then out to the switch. You could have it on a different floor it would just require more cabling. You can still use the other ports on the back of the router also, you just need one to feed the switch.

Is that what you were asking?

Under Construction

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I was wondering why can't I just do a dead end on the router. Count it as a wired device. Having the router in the basement seems like a bad idea to me also.

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

-Member of Team SounDrive

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Share on other sites

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