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A router with 2 switches? Why?

Well in my application because I run more then 4 devices. Hence a router and switch (and a powerline adapter so I don't have to run cat6 to the basement). Also multiple levels/floors. Switch on one and router on the other. All wired.

So you have one router and one switch? Switch on the top floor and Router on the bottom for example?

Powerline adapters are very good.

yup, router on the main floor though. pm me though, feel like we're derailing kik's thread

Aight, we're straight though. I just thought you had said 2 switches.

Back to the topic!

2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver)

Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS

Amps: RF P1000X5

Front: RF P16-S

Rear: RF P1694

Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10

Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire.

Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build

Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104

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IMG_20150705_203727_zpsitpctdog.jpg

How many ports does your "Router/Modem Combo" have?

Why do you have a router in the Dining Room? What is it used for?

Have you ordered all you material and equipment yet?

2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver)

Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS

Amps: RF P1000X5

Front: RF P16-S

Rear: RF P1694

Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10

Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire.

Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build

Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104

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If you didnt read all the replies you are missing massive amounts of information.... most of this has been covered.

I really was not trying to overload KikaZz74 with information and we solved most of his issues within his budget and he has extra cable and ports for expansion.

He knows his router should be upgraded in the future.

All devices that can go onto the 5ghz band have already been moved.

The ASUS will be used as a wireless AP on the 1st floor while the Netgear is used in the basement to feed the switch and patch panel. This gives him a total of 10 active ports and wireless coverage over the entire house. This leaves 2 ports on the patch panel open (he may not even use all 12 in total) for future additions.

Running more than one line to a certain spot is just easier in most cases than going back and doing it later.

He is moving most of the devices to wired connections, hence the need for more ports than the standard 4 on the router. This alleviates most of the wireless congestion he was suffering from since most of his devices used the same 2.4ghz band.

Did I miss any other questions?

The arris modem router combo appeared to be for VoIP only (1 ethernet jack and 2 RJ11 (telephone))

Under Construction

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If you didnt read all the replies you are missing massive amounts of information.... most of this has been covered.

I really was not trying to overload KikaZz74 with information and we solved most of his issues within his budget and he has extra cable and ports for expansion.

He knows his router should be upgraded in the future.

All devices that can go onto the 5ghz band have already been moved.

The ASUS will be used as a wireless AP on the 1st floor while the Netgear is used in the basement to feed the switch and patch panel. This gives him a total of 10 active ports and wireless coverage over the entire house. This leaves 2 ports on the patch panel open (he may not even use all 12 in total) for future additions.

Running more than one line to a certain spot is just easier in most cases than going back and doing it later.

He is moving most of the devices to wired connections, hence the need for more ports than the standard 4 on the router. This alleviates most of the wireless congestion he was suffering from since most of his devices used the same 2.4ghz band.

Did I miss any other questions?

The arris modem router combo appeared to be for VoIP only (1 ethernet jack and 2 RJ11 (telephone))

1 of the routers is for AP. Got it. Sounds like a plan and should be a fun install :good:

Remember... Pics or it didn't happen. A clean cable job in the data closet (or basement) is sexy.

Edit:

If I recall, when you put an asus router in AP mode, it's ports are still active. You could use that as 4 spare ports for later.

2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver)

Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS

Amps: RF P1000X5

Front: RF P16-S

Rear: RF P1694

Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10

Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire.

Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build

Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104

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So essentially we are running multiple lines and lots of extra equipment just in case of a cable going bad? All of this just feels like we are building a car with 2 engines built to racecar specs so we can make sure we get to the grocery store without issue. I mean seriously, 2 routers and a switch for 4 wired connections???

No need for 2 routers. Not sure where that was said.

Router typically has 4 connections. The switch I use has 8. We're taking up 1 line on each device to connect them together. So, you have 10 possible connections in the end.

You said that was a total of 4 (maybe 5 devices if laptop is used for gaming). Half as many devices as there are available ports. One spare port on the wallplate per location. If you have a location per room, that's perfect. Every room in the house would have hardwired connectivity if needed.

in the diagram i saw there were 2 routers and a switch. still seems like this could be easily done with a single router. Everything is just getting overly complicated when there is no reason for it to be that way. Why not an 8 port router? A single device rather than multiple. One of the wired connections is for a dvd player and one for an old computer. According to that diagram that leaves 3 devices that are the important ones. So we have 10 connections for 3 important devices...just seems like a ridiculous amount over overkill.

 

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2019 Harley Road Glide:

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this all seems ridiculously complicated for a home network. what is the issue with wireless?

Not complicated at all. If anything, we've underestimated what's needed. ALWAYS have spares on your wall jacks. Have a computer in a room? Run 3-4 cables to the wall plate. You'll only plug the computer in, but lets say you add a device or you need to troubleshoot another device. You have those spares there for whatever reason and you'd only have to make that run once. Pull the 4 cables at the same time.

My home network has 3 computers, Smart TV, Roku, laptop(wifi), and 4 phones Wifi. I have double the amount of lines I need in every room of the house.

For wireless, Everything is on the 2.4ghz band and the router is in the center of it. My home is 1200 sq.ft. and we get coverage everywhere in and around the outside of the house. That being said, we only get 10down/1up on our connection speed. 2.4ghz band works well for that.

2.4ghz has a wider range (signal goes further), but with speed limitations. 5ghz has a more narrow range, but it can handle way higher speeds.

KiKaZz74,

First thing I'd do is get your Wifi, access point, hotspot, or whatever you want to call it to a central location in the house. This way you'll have even coverage throughout. If your Wifi is tied in with your router, you might as well make that location your data closet center/closet. Have everything centralized. Patch panel, switch, router, modem, etc. all right there.

Second thing I'd do is run cables to every stationary device(s) and double the amount of runs to it/them. In case of additions, cables getting cut, or whatever. You have a computer, run 2 lines. You have the PS3 next to the computer, run 3-4 cables.

Third, You need to split your wifi devices among the 2 bands you have to work with. Will you be doing a lot of Netflix, HD video streaming, or gaming on those wireless devices? You need to connect those on the 5ghz range. For things like facebook, surfing the SMD forums B), and the occasional youtube video...Have those devices connect to the 2.4ghz range. When you set up 2 different bands, you basically have 2 different connections show up in your network table when you scan for a network. "home network 2.4ghz" and "home network 5ghz" or whatever you decide to name it. Set passwords for both to keep the peace on your network.

I read earlier that someone had said to use a hub. DO NOT USE A HUB!!! If you're having a lan party, use a hub. A hub is a dumb switch. Thing with a hub is when one device has something to say, everyone listens until the other device pipes up and is like, "wtf you want bro?". This causes a lot of packet collision and thus packet loss. Makes for a very inefficient and slower network. A switch operates a little higher on the OSI layers. It has packet forwarding. So with a hub, while you're mowing through noobs on battlefield, you get shot because your roommate just started watching Netflix and caused you to lag. Then, you got fragged and 'bagged'. So, get a cheap switch, if not a managed switch if you want to get technical. Not necessary though. I use this switch http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166058&cm_re=rosewill_switch-_-33-166-058-_-Product Works great for a home network.

I'll probably add more as I read more through the post. This was just some important stuff I wanted to clarify.

I'll post pics of my setup when I get home tonight to give you an idea. Ask any question about installation, configuring everything, crimping, cabling, color codes, brands, whatever. Ask before you do. I'm here to help.

I have what I can on the 5gHz which is 3 phones. All the wireless devices are either out of range or don't support 5ghz on the outer edge of the house on the far side such as the bluray which has the most problems. The extra runs is a good idea for at least 2 places like the living room and my room for like future smart tvs. So I can factor that in. Will have to change the parts list a bit to reflect. As for the central location I really don't have one. My house is basement, first floor, attic(my room), staircase is overtop each other directly in the center of the house. Non open floor plan. So a central location is hard to find. Best thing I could do is a router on each floor near the computer equipment. So one in the distribution closet, one by the computer or in the living room, and one upstairs by my computer. Do u think have 2 of those Asus would be good or should you try to keep the same throughout the system? That could also work by only needing one port at those locations to have extra slots if it wouldn't slow it down to much. I'll redraw it and let u guys see it again.

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

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My plan right now will be to get the cluster of cabling that we have had bounced around the basement due to dumbass direct and Mediacom service techs and move it into the closet like it used to be. I will lay all the cables out as neat as I can and I have a ton of the cable clamps I'll use. I'll try to do a router on each floor just to get as much coverage as I can without deadzones. I'll draw up the final plan tonight.

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

-Member of Team SounDrive

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Share on other sites

So essentially we are running multiple lines and lots of extra equipment just in case of a cable going bad? All of this just feels like we are building a car with 2 engines built to racecar specs so we can make sure we get to the grocery store without issue. I mean seriously, 2 routers and a switch for 4 wired connections???

No need for 2 routers. Not sure where that was said.

Router typically has 4 connections. The switch I use has 8. We're taking up 1 line on each device to connect them together. So, you have 10 possible connections in the end.

You said that was a total of 4 (maybe 5 devices if laptop is used for gaming). Half as many devices as there are available ports. One spare port on the wallplate per location. If you have a location per room, that's perfect. Every room in the house would have hardwired connectivity if needed.

in the diagram i saw there were 2 routers and a switch. still seems like this could be easily done with a single router. Everything is just getting overly complicated when there is no reason for it to be that way. Why not an 8 port router? A single device rather than multiple. One of the wired connections is for a dvd player and one for an old computer. According to that diagram that leaves 3 devices that are the important ones. So we have 10 connections for 3 important devices...just seems like a ridiculous amount over overkill.

I saw the 2 routers also. Turns out he's using it as an access point, lengthening his wireless coverage. Of course that could be fixed with a better router, but I believe he had a budget. So, we're working with the equipment he has.

An 8 port router vs a consumer grade router with a consumer grade switch is probably more expensive.

I've been around many enterprise and commercial grade data closets. They use the same gear KiKaZz74 is wanting to use, but on a much larger scale.

It does seem like overkill. Everyone I've explained cabling to thinks everything cable installers do is overkill. It is, but it works and it works very well.

2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver)

Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS

Amps: RF P1000X5

Front: RF P16-S

Rear: RF P1694

Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10

Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire.

Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build

Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104

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this all seems ridiculously complicated for a home network. what is the issue with wireless?

Not complicated at all. If anything, we've underestimated what's needed. ALWAYS have spares on your wall jacks. Have a computer in a room? Run 3-4 cables to the wall plate. You'll only plug the computer in, but lets say you add a device or you need to troubleshoot another device. You have those spares there for whatever reason and you'd only have to make that run once. Pull the 4 cables at the same time.

My home network has 3 computers, Smart TV, Roku, laptop(wifi), and 4 phones Wifi. I have double the amount of lines I need in every room of the house.

For wireless, Everything is on the 2.4ghz band and the router is in the center of it. My home is 1200 sq.ft. and we get coverage everywhere in and around the outside of the house. That being said, we only get 10down/1up on our connection speed. 2.4ghz band works well for that.

2.4ghz has a wider range (signal goes further), but with speed limitations. 5ghz has a more narrow range, but it can handle way higher speeds.

KiKaZz74,

First thing I'd do is get your Wifi, access point, hotspot, or whatever you want to call it to a central location in the house. This way you'll have even coverage throughout. If your Wifi is tied in with your router, you might as well make that location your data closet center/closet. Have everything centralized. Patch panel, switch, router, modem, etc. all right there.

Second thing I'd do is run cables to every stationary device(s) and double the amount of runs to it/them. In case of additions, cables getting cut, or whatever. You have a computer, run 2 lines. You have the PS3 next to the computer, run 3-4 cables.

Third, You need to split your wifi devices among the 2 bands you have to work with. Will you be doing a lot of Netflix, HD video streaming, or gaming on those wireless devices? You need to connect those on the 5ghz range. For things like facebook, surfing the SMD forums B), and the occasional youtube video...Have those devices connect to the 2.4ghz range. When you set up 2 different bands, you basically have 2 different connections show up in your network table when you scan for a network. "home network 2.4ghz" and "home network 5ghz" or whatever you decide to name it. Set passwords for both to keep the peace on your network.

I read earlier that someone had said to use a hub. DO NOT USE A HUB!!! If you're having a lan party, use a hub. A hub is a dumb switch. Thing with a hub is when one device has something to say, everyone listens until the other device pipes up and is like, "wtf you want bro?". This causes a lot of packet collision and thus packet loss. Makes for a very inefficient and slower network. A switch operates a little higher on the OSI layers. It has packet forwarding. So with a hub, while you're mowing through noobs on battlefield, you get shot because your roommate just started watching Netflix and caused you to lag. Then, you got fragged and 'bagged'. So, get a cheap switch, if not a managed switch if you want to get technical. Not necessary though. I use this switch http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166058&cm_re=rosewill_switch-_-33-166-058-_-Product Works great for a home network.

I'll probably add more as I read more through the post. This was just some important stuff I wanted to clarify.

I'll post pics of my setup when I get home tonight to give you an idea. Ask any question about installation, configuring everything, crimping, cabling, color codes, brands, whatever. Ask before you do. I'm here to help.

I have what I can on the 5gHz which is 3 phones. All the wireless devices are either out of range or don't support 5ghz on the outer edge of the house on the far side such as the bluray which has the most problems. The extra runs is a good idea for at least 2 places like the living room and my room for like future smart tvs. So I can factor that in. Will have to change the parts list a bit to reflect. As for the central location I really don't have one. My house is basement, first floor, attic(my room), staircase is overtop each other directly in the center of the house. Non open floor plan. So a central location is hard to find. Best thing I could do is a router on each floor near the computer equipment. So one in the distribution closet, one by the computer or in the living room, and one upstairs by my computer. Do u think have 2 of those Asus would be good or should you try to keep the same throughout the system? That could also work by only needing one port at those locations to have extra slots if it wouldn't slow it down to much. I'll redraw it and let u guys see it again.

I don't think you need 2 Asus Routers and no you don't need to have the same stuff throughout.

I'd recommend taking the best router you own and place it in the center of your home (or as close to center as you can). A place that you'd feel comfortable designating that spot as your permanent data location or wherever people will be using the wifi the most. Then, test your wifi signals throughout the house. If it's still too weak in some areas, the idea of having an access point on another floor is perfect. Remember that Wifi signals bounce off walls. They don't go through them. So, best practice is to keep your access points/wireless routers out in the open.

I'm not sure what you meant on that 2nd to last sentence.

2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver)

Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS

Amps: RF P1000X5

Front: RF P16-S

Rear: RF P1694

Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10

Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire.

Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build

Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104

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My plan right now will be to get the cluster of cabling that we have had bounced around the basement due to dumbass direct and Mediacom service techs and move it into the closet like it used to be. I will lay all the cables out as neat as I can and I have a ton of the cable clamps I'll use. I'll try to do a router on each floor just to get as much coverage as I can without deadzones. I'll draw up the final plan tonight.

Most excellent plan, sir. Zip ties and Velcro is what I use.

I think I'm going to make an educational video about service and networks. Kind of an overview of how everything works from the pole to the house and how I have my home setup. It's really simple once you see it.

Edit: I don't know how to spell...

2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver)

Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS

Amps: RF P1000X5

Front: RF P16-S

Rear: RF P1694

Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10

Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire.

Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build

Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104

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