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2 way active crossover


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My answer still stands. There's also DSP's. I think kicker and maybe audio control sell active crossovers. Probably other companies too. But that's needless extra equipment and possible signal noise and distortion. Active capable head unit, amplifiers with built in high and low pass filters, and DSP's are the way to go for active. If you want to run active, you have to not use the crossover that comes with component sets, or the capacitor that is sometimes attached to tweeters to prevent low frequencies. The tweet and mid range are passively crossed over, while your mid bass are actively crossed via the filters on your amplifier being used to power them.

dsp's arent always the way to go for active or always needed.

Amps can't do time alignment.

A good active capable head unit is the way I would go.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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My answer still stands. There's also DSP's. I think kicker and maybe audio control sell active crossovers. Probably other companies too. But that's needless extra equipment and possible signal noise and distortion. Active capable head unit, amplifiers with built in high and low pass filters, and DSP's are the way to go for active. If you want to run active, you have to not use the crossover that comes with component sets, or the capacitor that is sometimes attached to tweeters to prevent low frequencies. The tweet and mid range are passively crossed over, while your mid bass are actively crossed via the filters on your amplifier being used to power them.

dsp's arent always the way to go for active or always needed.

Amps can't do time alignment.

A good active capable head unit is the way I would go.

Just giving him all of his options.

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The prs 80 a nice unit. You can pick one up for about $250-275.

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Pioneer DEH-80PRS

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Arc Audio KS 300.2

Linear Power 1002 Full Mods

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Sundown Audio Scv 3000

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XS Power D5100 Juice Box 20AH

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heres what popped into head it wont work as a processor for my needs. Im running Rear speakers and a sub as well ALL amplified. Meaning it would have to be the 99 which im not paying 1200$ for a used deck lol. SO again external processor is needed.

So to Re state what im doing. Im amplifying everything meaning an amp pushing the front tweets and mid ranges, a SEPARATE amp for the Midbasses, a separate amp for the rear speakers a separate amp for the sub

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The p99rs is not meant to run rears at all.

What you are doing is over complicating your install.

Run passive or run active don't mix the two.

Let the rears run off headunit power and focus on getting the front right.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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The p99rs is not meant to run rears at all.

What you are doing is over complicating your install.

Run passive or run active don't mix the two.

Let the rears run off headunit power and focus on getting the front right.

http://gladen.com/compo_coax.html

they dont come fully passive. Im running rears and im amplifying them. So suggestions for a processor?

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  • 1 month later...

What about tweeter and mids with different RMS wattage or maybe same wattage RMS... Can i hook up together on same channel? 50 RMS tweeter and a midbass 200 RMS both are 8ohm, amp channel CEA-2006 certified 250 RMS watts @ 4 OHM load... the question is.. The tweeter gonna take only his 50 watts RMS and leave the rest of 200 watts RMS for the midbass or one is gonna take a lot more wattage than it needs (more than the speaker or tweeter RMS) and gonna blow or burn due to the difference in Voice Coil? I heard on same channel they need to be equal in OHM and RMS also in size inches voice coil. I need help with this!

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Don't run different RMS and impedance speakers on the same channel, amp doesn't care about a speakers rms, only the impedance its providing as a load. Don't run tweeters and mids on the same channel for an active setup (given impedance and rms were matched). The crossover points you set if you do that will either underperform the mid greatly, or destroy the tweeter.

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