Setting my gains. What am I doing wrong?

[RooTxBeeR]

Should be right next the button for edit is to delete a post. Very true on the less of a hassle. I must say, since I went to a decent amp, I am not ever going back down to lower gear.

I don't see the option, and I'm pretty computer savy. Maybe I don't have enough posts to allow myself to delete them.

as far as i know only member with the 18+ have that option

You learn something everday

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

dynamic mode shouldnt even exist.. you will never see 1ohm on music..

go by certified mode as thats the one that really counts

The Ad-1 test at other loads than 1 ohm and I think the dynamic test is very relevant and there is a possibility for the amp to see a 1ohm load on music even if it's very brief.

Tony D is a genius and has forgotten more about audio than we will ever know and im sure if he did not think the dynamic test was worth doing he would not have included it.

[Miguels]

with the AD-1 the DC 5k did nearly 10k in dynamic mode at .5 ohm.. no one will ever get that while playing music, even with the best electrical out there. dynamic in 2 ohm 4 ohm and 8 ohm is more relevant

if that was the case i would have blown my mayhems to pieces when i wired them to .5 ohms and feeding them double its rated power on decaf music

[Miguels]

certified is where its at.. if it passes certified you will get that plus some.. ive had some amps rated in dynamic power and a fosgate rated on certified power or any other amp putting out on certified power blows the one that is rated in dynamic to pieces.. hifonics and RE are rated on dynamic mode and they dont come close to an amp that does 1500 on certified testing. i will never buy an amp that does its rated power on dynamic mode because they dont perform like you expect them too.. ive been let down a few times.. bs to the side.. the saz1500 runs circles around the re 2500 watt amp and the hifonics.. not only sundown but many 1.5k amps put those amps to shame.. when i had my brz2400 i was let down.. my fosgate that was 800 watts was actually louder

[Guest]

certified is where its at.. if it passes certified you will get that plus some.. ive had some amps rated in dynamic power and a fosgate rated on certified power or any other amp putting out on certified power blows the one that is rated in dynamic to pieces.. hifonics and RE are rated on dynamic mode and they dont come close to an amp that does 1500 on certified testing. i will never buy an amp that does its rated power on dynamic mode because they dont perform like you expect them too.. ive been let down a few times.. bs to the side.. the saz1500 runs circles around the re 2500 watt amp and the hifonics.. not only sundown but many 1.5k amps put those amps to shame.. when i had my brz2400 i was let down.. my fosgate that was 800 watts was actually louder

Well even the 500 watt amp by Rockford Fosgate is $520 on Amazon, so really Hifonics isn't bad for a bang for buck stand point. You get what you pay for!

[Miguels]

you can get fosgate amps cheaper.. just head to a dealer and ask.. there are other brands out there 2

[Miguels]

though run what you like and what fits your budget.. what matters is that you are happy with your results..

as for me, i was disappointed by hifonics.. the dirty signal had me tune the gain really low and was getting no output. that made me jump to the big boy amps.. you can tune it to clipping and get some output but if you tune the gain to distortion you get no output from it.

[CleanSierra]

As mentioned, you're not getting 1600W in the real world out of that amp. The reason for this is because your impedance is rising to something 2 ohms or higher likely. The heating dust caps is likely due to the improperly set gain knob since you are NOT matched to the HU's output voltage(the whole purpose of the gain knob on an amplifier).

I have a Crossfire 4K that clamps out at only a little over 3200W in my truck on a clean gain setting and a clean 44 Hz tone. Am I "upset" that my amp ONLY puts out 3200W? No. The reason for this is because it is at 2 ohms that I'm getting this 3200W.

[Guest]

As mentioned, you're not getting 1600W in the real world out of that amp. The reason for this is because your impedance is rising to something 2 ohms or higher likely. The heating dust caps is likely due to the improperly set gain knob since you are NOT matched to the HU's output voltage(the whole purpose of the gain knob on an amplifier).

I have a Crossfire 4K that clamps out at only a little over 3200W in my truck on a clean gain setting and a clean 44 Hz tone. Am I "upset" that my amp ONLY puts out 3200W? No. The reason for this is because it is at 2 ohms that I'm getting this 3200W.

What I'm thinking about doing is ordering one of the nano o-scopes from Amazon. I can get one for about $80 and then set my gains with that.

In the event that I do upgrade my amplifier, and let's say my goal is to put 1,600 watts through my speakers, should I look for an amp that does 1,600 @ 2ohms, even though I have the speakers wired at 1ohm?