9tr3g Posted September 28, 2015 Report Posted September 28, 2015 I used Torres to plan a box. The box is 36Wx 24Dx 16.25T. It is for a team FI 15. The program wants me to cut the front baffles 14.75 tall but that wont work with a 15. I planned to double baffle it and recess the sub. Can anyone come up with a way to keep these dimensions and tuning but make the box work for my sub. The cutout is ID 14.125 and OD 15.7 so it would only leave like a quarter inch of wood over and under the sub. I dont think thats enough to support the sub and its not enough to recess the sub. The port is 5 inches wide and tuned to 31.6Hrtz
dsw422 Posted September 29, 2015 Report Posted September 29, 2015 I used Torres to plan a box. The box is 36Wx 24Dx 16.25T. It is for a team FI 15. The program wants me to cut the front baffles 14.75 tall but that wont work with a 15. I planned to double baffle it and recess the sub. Can anyone come up with a way to keep these dimensions and tuning but make the box work for my sub. The cutout is ID 14.125 and OD 15.7 so it would only leave like a quarter inch of wood over and under the sub. I dont think thats enough to support the sub and its not enough to recess the sub. The port is 5 inches wide and tuned to 31.6Hrtz cut your fronts 16.25.. you can even do your back this way too if you want.. just be sure to subtract the difference in the other panels.. i would not flush mount these in ur situation..i may even go as far as saying to triple baffle ur box since that woofer is so ass heavy.. plenty of internal bracing too!! 2014 Ford Focus SE Sedan Factory Sony 10 Speaker Sound System 1994 Ford Bronco Dual head unit (i kno) Sony door speakers Kenwood Rear Speakers Custom Center console in the works. will house an NVX NSW10" https://m.facebook.com/WinnsCustomCarAudio/
ChevyBoy95 Posted September 29, 2015 Report Posted September 29, 2015 Box is clearly big enough, make your own cutsheet. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
9tr3g Posted September 29, 2015 Author Report Posted September 29, 2015 I was not sure if doing that then subtracting 1.5 inches from the top and bottom would mess with the box volume.
magillaru Posted September 29, 2015 Report Posted September 29, 2015 What he others said, just make the front baffle what you need it and subtract from other panels. Add another layer to make it 3 layers and definitely some internal bracing. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild
9tr3g Posted September 29, 2015 Author Report Posted September 29, 2015 really? I did not think it would need 3. I planned on getting something to brace it, not sure how yet
magillaru Posted September 29, 2015 Report Posted September 29, 2015 You'll be ok with 2 layers and good bracing. I did 4 layers for mine primarily just so I could use longer screws to get more meat to grab onto. Definitely not needed though. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild
Triticum Agricolam Posted September 29, 2015 Report Posted September 29, 2015 You are fine with 2 layers IMHO, as long as you have two layers to screw into. Since you want to flush mount you might just add a ring on the inside of the box to give the screws more material to bite into without going to a full triple baffle. Personally I'd just recess the sub into the box as laid out by Torres. Having a 1/4" around the outside of the sub isn't a problem. If you were the change the panel layout around like you are suggesting you are still going to have the same amount of material supporting the sub, it will just be oriented differently. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
9tr3g Posted September 29, 2015 Author Report Posted September 29, 2015 I don't know. I like the way it laid it out but I think that the vibration would Crack the quarter inch or so above and below the sub. Even if I didn't try to recess the sub I just don't think that's enough material for that heavy of a sub.
magillaru Posted September 29, 2015 Report Posted September 29, 2015 The remaining surface area of the baffle will support it just fine as long as your seams are tight and solid. All of that weight and force is dispersed throughout the entire area so you should be good. If you're that concerned, you could drill extra mounting holes but I honestly think that would be overkill. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild
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