Lakeshow94 Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 this is how much a good alternator costs https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/Dodge~Ram~2006~4.7L-V8/13912-250-xp.html I wouldn't even waste your time/money going with the cheap one. Better to just save and get something decent. 1999 Lexus GS 300 Pioneer DEH-80PRS Singer 240 Amp (Will be installed later) Northstar Group 31 & 24 Sundown SCV-4000 Rockford T400-4 2 12" CT Sound Meso CT Sounds 6.5 Meso Components CT Sounds Tropo 6.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmacleod1983 Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 Not gonna happen... Its not a competition system Im gonna opt for a better battery and just take my chances with this alternator. They have several good reviews and even if it only makes 150 amps it should be plenty to push my little system fine I think. Ill post my results in the next few days after I replace everything thanks for all the replies forum is a huge help and I have learned a lot over the years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 I don't trust autozone for shit except cleaning supplies, because they're cheaper there but the people who work at every auto zone I've been to either don't know shit, or only know how to change the oil which is enough to make them store manager. I'd either fill that battery up, or get a new one (I'd get the new one personally, an AGM, that way no more spills) what battery do you suggest? I am not interested in spending $300 for a battery. a 250 amp alternator is $135 on Ebay for my model so I would like to spend $165 on a battery Any suggestions? I told the wife it was going to be a $300 fix so that is my budget I promise that a $135 for a 250A alt will be a mistake. Carry your stock one in your bed if that's the route you take because there is a good likelihood that alt will try to leave you stranded.-Edit I'm not being biased but I'd stay away from that alternator altogether. Find an alt from a later model Dodge/Chrysler product as they are 6 phase hairpin technology. They are very efficient and are made to LAST. They put out great idle output and they should fit your application fine. A NICE factory Denso hairpin alt will be superior to that shitty eBay alt(that as mentioned before, MIGHT leave you stranded). Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 that alt wont charge at idle.. you will see 12v in every stop youre better off with a new oem alt my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMac91 Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 Not gonna happen... Its not a competition system Im gonna opt for a better battery and just take my chances with this alternator. They have several good reviews and even if it only makes 150 amps it should be plenty to push my little system fine I think. Ill post my results in the next few days after I replace everything thanks for all the replies forum is a huge help and I have learned a lot over the years Please, Don't really buy that alt. You are better off keeping the one you have now because it might be just as good if not better than the one you may receive, could even outlast it.. Just remember man, people aren't responding to your post to be know it all's or trash your ideas, but rather because we've all been where you're at now. And they are giving you the opportunity to save your money, your time and definitely disappointment. As far as that battery, its better as a secondary battery, you can also go to www.4xspower.com and see what battery fits under your hood, and then go to an alternate site such as ebay or www.droppinhzcaraudio.com and look for the same battery that fits but find how cheap you can get it for. Vehicle: 2002 Volvo S60 2.4t awd.Headunit: Kenwood DDX-470Doors: 4x Focal 6.5s/tweets (Adding)Sub: 2x Sundown Zv4 12's D1Amps: B2 Zero.1, MB Quart OA600.4Box: 5.2ish @ 32, Made with Maple, solid oak braces, 45s all around, 2x 5.8" pipes, all fiberglassed up.Battery: XS D3100, Block Shakers 110AHAlternator: 250A Excessive Amperage. All Sky High OFC Wiring. My Build, plenty of pics: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/198281-2002-volvo-s60-awd-24t-build-log/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 I wanted to mention something else in regards to your part about the Big3, the whole purpose of the thread. You said you were hoping to gain voltage by performing this modification. The Big3 does not ADD any voltage, it minimizes losses that you might have. It's like having two buckets full to the top with water. One bucket is your stock voltage and one has the Big3 done to it. The Big3 bucket has a lid with a small hole in it and the stock voltage bucket has no lid. You go dump out both buckets and the one with the lid on it drains much slower than the "stock voltage" bucket. The Big3 mod is the same idea. Each bucket started with the same amount of stuff, ie voltage. The bucket with the Big3 just lost its contents at a slower rate. I hope this weird hillbilly analogy makes sense. Cheers and have fun I think your issue might be a matter of the way you made your connections on your wires. Did you crimp, solder, or hammer the connections? Was any metal ground to bare for a solid connection? Were the locations you chose ideal? Pictures would help us greatly to help you Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmacleod1983 Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 I hammered them. Cut to shortest length and then wrapped with electrical tape. Probably will take them Off today and solder them proper. I sanded the paint on the side mount where frame is located but all others were directly to metal. Ok ok ok.... So instead of buying that alternator should I opt for a bigger better battery??? It just isn't goin to be pheasible to drop $600 on an alternator. I just can't do that. I have a 2004 ram 1500 with the small v8 4.7 liter engine. Does anyone have a suggestion on whether to keep current alternator and buy a beast $300 battery. Or should I look to buy an alternator first? I don't want to buy an expensive battery and shorten its life by having the current alternator mess it up some how I still get a charge with my current stock alternator it's just producing slightly less voltage. This could be due to heat? Or a bad battery not holding as much charge? So possibly the alternator is fine and a new awesome battery would solve my power woes? How about a capacitor of some sort? I'm open for suggestions and need the best solution for $300 What is the best way to spend my $300 budget at this point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmacleod1983 Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 checked voltage this morning its 64 degrees out voltage spiked to 14.61 volts then slowly remained at 14.28-14.34 must be thermal temp or the voltage reg showing system is charged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 I would solder your connectors and recheck your connections and make sure everything thing is clean and tight. Ground your alt battery. Buy biggest agm that will fit underhood preferably xs power, kinetic, north star etc. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMac91 Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 Well if u want to drop 300, theres a bat that fits ur vehicle http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/d6500/ Vehicle: 2002 Volvo S60 2.4t awd.Headunit: Kenwood DDX-470Doors: 4x Focal 6.5s/tweets (Adding)Sub: 2x Sundown Zv4 12's D1Amps: B2 Zero.1, MB Quart OA600.4Box: 5.2ish @ 32, Made with Maple, solid oak braces, 45s all around, 2x 5.8" pipes, all fiberglassed up.Battery: XS D3100, Block Shakers 110AHAlternator: 250A Excessive Amperage. All Sky High OFC Wiring. My Build, plenty of pics: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/198281-2002-volvo-s60-awd-24t-build-log/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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