300spartan Posted October 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Yes that's what I meant lol. Gonna stay laying . Don't wanna rush I'll pay my progress. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasteland_Audio Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Uh, for what? If your cuts are good, your shouldn't need caulk for the seams. To actually glue the pieces of wood together, I use Titebond II or Titebond III. You can use caulk on the inner seams if your cuts are not perfect and just use a non silicone based caulk. Quick question, why non-silicone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Uh, for what? If your cuts are good, your shouldn't need caulk for the seams. To actually glue the pieces of wood together, I use Titebond II or Titebond III. You can use caulk on the inner seams if your cuts are not perfect and just use a non silicone based caulk. Quick question, why non-silicone? Silicon caulking produces gases while it cures that are hard on the soft parts of your sub. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasteland_Audio Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Uh, for what? If your cuts are good, your shouldn't need caulk for the seams. To actually glue the pieces of wood together, I use Titebond II or Titebond III. You can use caulk on the inner seams if your cuts are not perfect and just use a non silicone based caulk. Quick question, why non-silicone? Silicon caulking produces gases while it cures that are hard on the soft parts of your sub. If it was left to cure for a week or so before mounting the subs would it be ok? just wondering because i used silicone based caulk on the box i just built Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 What Triticum said. I'm just paranoid and I live in ARIZONA so it's hot in our enclosures for half of the year. I'm always worried about the fumes potentially affecting the soft parts of a sub. I don't trust it, even after is "cured" haha. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300spartan Posted October 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Cleansierra I didn't start today because I laid out my board and I didn't have enough. The only way I could get enough wood is if I didn't double the top and bottom. Would that work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 I would absolutely not build it unless you could double wall the whole thing. 5/8" is just too thin and will flex. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300spartan Posted October 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 I was thinking and made a decision to wait till I get 3/4 wood. Would the dimensions stay the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 No, the dimensions would not stay the same. You'd have a slightly different volume and a slightly different tune. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Here is a 3/4" wood alternative box, specs close to the previous suggestion: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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