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07chevy

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if your HU has crossovers/network mode then you are future proofed... but if not... and you run a 4ch and plan on going active make sure you get one with a 10x switch or you will need to add a 3 way x-over or a dsp later on down the road..... this might be pretty obvous but nobody mentioned this yet in this thread... Ill be trying this with my new pioneer 4800bs this spring

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I'm taking all this in. Talking about head units I am looking at a kenwood dpx501bt. After the two touch screens messing up I just want something simple. Not sure if this would be ideal. I'm game for whatever and am open to suggestions but honestly whatever my first set up is will probably be what I stick with. This is my personal daily work truck. I like a lot of y'all have plenty other hobbies coming out of my wallet. I do value the knowledge offered and figured out I may end up spending less than anticipated.

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No double din active h/u's that I know off.

Running active is choosing your crossover points instead of letting the passive crossovers do the work. Basicially your sub is already ran active if you are using a ported enclosure, it has a bandpass network. Two frequency cut off points, HPF (or SSF, sub sonic filter) and LPF. You can change your crossover points and slope to customize the sound you want instead of using set points on the crossover frequency.

Your mids will have a bandpass crossover setup like your sub for example: HPF 63hz at 24db with an LPF of 2500hz at 24db. Basically your mids will play from 63hz-2500hz, instead of letting them naturally roll-off on their own.

Your tweeters will only have a HPF since they can naturally roll-off without complications.

That is the dumb down version, you also have time alignment features to adjust (i still don't have a big grasp on that).

Nav-TV Zen V Audio Interface

AudioControl DM-608

(2) Stevens Audio Neo-Comp Full-Size Horns

(4) Faital Pro 6PR160 6.5"

AudioControl LC-6.1200

(1) Fi Neo 4.7 15" D2 in 3.74 Cubic Feet @ 27.70 Hz

Ampere Audio AA3800.1

Odyssey ODP-AGM48 Battery (Starting)

Odyssey ODX-AGM31 Battery (Trunk)

Big 3 - 2\0 Welding Cable, KnuKonceptz Speaker Wire & 1/0 Power Cable, NVX RCAs, Second Skin (Speaker Tweaker Pads, Damplifier Pro Mat), Diode Dynamics LEDs

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you also have time alignment features to adjust (i still don't have a big grasp on that).

That's adjusting the output level of the speaker/tweeter so all sound reaches you at the same time (assuming electrical T/A using a processor or HU with a built in processor). Perfectly set up, you won't hear a difference between the sound coming from the tweeters and mid-range, and you won't feel as if a single side (typically the speakers closest to you) is louder than the other side. Everything will sound completely in sync.

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you also have time alignment features to adjust (i still don't have a big grasp on that).

That's adjusting the output level of the speaker/tweeter so all sound reaches you at the same time (assuming electrical T/A using a processor or HU with a built in processor). Perfectly set up, you won't hear a difference between the sound coming from the tweeters and mid-range, and you won't feel as if a single side (typically the speakers closest to you) is louder than the other side. Everything will sound completely in sync.

I knew that but thanks for defining that, just meant a grasp as far as actually having experience using the feature itself.

Nav-TV Zen V Audio Interface

AudioControl DM-608

(2) Stevens Audio Neo-Comp Full-Size Horns

(4) Faital Pro 6PR160 6.5"

AudioControl LC-6.1200

(1) Fi Neo 4.7 15" D2 in 3.74 Cubic Feet @ 27.70 Hz

Ampere Audio AA3800.1

Odyssey ODP-AGM48 Battery (Starting)

Odyssey ODX-AGM31 Battery (Trunk)

Big 3 - 2\0 Welding Cable, KnuKonceptz Speaker Wire & 1/0 Power Cable, NVX RCAs, Second Skin (Speaker Tweaker Pads, Damplifier Pro Mat), Diode Dynamics LEDs

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you also have time alignment features to adjust (i still don't have a big grasp on that).

That's adjusting the output level of the speaker/tweeter so all sound reaches you at the same time (assuming electrical T/A using a processor or HU with a built in processor). Perfectly set up, you won't hear a difference between the sound coming from the tweeters and mid-range, and you won't feel as if a single side (typically the speakers closest to you) is louder than the other side. Everything will sound completely in sync.
I knew that but thanks for defining that, just meant a grasp as far as actually having experience using the feature itself.

Ahh gotcha. My bad.

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there are a couple DD units that handle active.... and unless I was told wrong the 4800bs pioneer I just bought does network mode and the front channels can be crossed over at a high khz ... kenwood has some too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UsGEEeshAE8

Not really active per se. They allow you to choose a starting frequency and slope but you cant do a bandpass crossover network. Nothing like the Pioneer 80PRS.

Nav-TV Zen V Audio Interface

AudioControl DM-608

(2) Stevens Audio Neo-Comp Full-Size Horns

(4) Faital Pro 6PR160 6.5"

AudioControl LC-6.1200

(1) Fi Neo 4.7 15" D2 in 3.74 Cubic Feet @ 27.70 Hz

Ampere Audio AA3800.1

Odyssey ODP-AGM48 Battery (Starting)

Odyssey ODX-AGM31 Battery (Trunk)

Big 3 - 2\0 Welding Cable, KnuKonceptz Speaker Wire & 1/0 Power Cable, NVX RCAs, Second Skin (Speaker Tweaker Pads, Damplifier Pro Mat), Diode Dynamics LEDs

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