Jump to content
Sundown Audio

Anyone dynoed or clamped a Hifonics BRX3016?


AcIdBuRn02ZTS

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hmm... well the enclosure is the same (in my sig)

2 group31s mounted in the rear, 1 d3100 under hood. All 2/0 power and grounds. Alternator is stock :( 140a that is overdriven.

So... same setup, adding 1k watts will make no noticeable difference? No argument... just hard to swallow.

03' Black Z71 Tahoe
3" Lift / 315/70/R17 Goodyear Duratracs
Eclipse AVN6620 Touchscreen Head Unit
Hifonics BRX3016 - 3krms @ 1ohm
2 RE Auido SX 18s - 14.5^3ft net @ 30hz w/ 200^2in. port
120hp Cummins 4bta Swap

Posted

No, because when dealing with the AC output of an amplifier, a DMM doesn't tell you a power factor. Plus, while you may be wired to 1ohm resistance, the impedance of the subwoofer is constantly changing as the cone moves and air pressure changes and etc.. So many factors.

Buy an AMM-1, get all of the power readings you want, and prepare for disappointment due to impedance rise. Good news is you can do a frequency sweep to find your lowest impedance and that frequency is when your sub will be seeing the most power (assuming environment never changes :rofl:)

is that chart exact hell no but will it get you in the ball park YES at the nominal ohm load

and what will he do with the information on the sweep to see your lowest impedance

like sweet i only rise .3 ohms at 55hz and put out 3000 watts WOOHOOO great for a burb but how does that help this guy?

or you can buy $1000+ in testing equipment for your 800 dollar system use the DD-1 you got it will give you the most clean power you can get

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

Posted

hifonics amps need max power to give rated power. so if you want them to give you what they say you will need to give them what they need. your going to need a good alt and maybe an extra battery. then you will be good.

Well... I've got 2 group 31s mounted in the rear... an XS d3100 under hood... all power and grounds are 2/0. The main power and grounds to the amp are ~3' from the battery they are tied to and again, 2/0. The only stock electrical system component is the alternator and I've been holding off on it as this one still works and I dont want to drop $400+ until its needed.

So... so far in this thread... Ive been told that my idea wont give me an idea of what the amp makes power wise... or it could give me an idea of what it makes real world.... And that the 1kw power difference may be noticeable or wont be at all....

Hmmm...

03' Black Z71 Tahoe
3" Lift / 315/70/R17 Goodyear Duratracs
Eclipse AVN6620 Touchscreen Head Unit
Hifonics BRX3016 - 3krms @ 1ohm
2 RE Auido SX 18s - 14.5^3ft net @ 30hz w/ 200^2in. port
120hp Cummins 4bta Swap

Posted

Hmm... well the enclosure is the same (in my sig)

2 group31s mounted in the rear, 1 d3100 under hood. All 2/0 power and grounds. Alternator is stock :( 140a that is overdriven.

So... same setup, adding 1k watts will make no noticeable difference? No argument... just hard to swallow.

Yeah, I know its probably not what you want to hear, but adding 1,000 watts to a 2,000 watt system won't hardly make a difference.

A 1 db increase is the smallest increase that's discernible by the human ear and you have to really pay attention and listen HARD to hear it. A lot of people can't hear it at all.

A 3 db increase is what most people describe as being 15-20% louder and it requires a doubling of input power to get. So if you are only increasing your input power by about 50% you are only going to get around 1 db of increase. Food for thought.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Posted

technically if you know the voltage that your amp is supposed to unload at, and you also know that it does unload there cleanly. you could set your gain with a DMM with no load on the amplifier. An amplifier should put out the same voltage at any ohm load, the only change, due to the resistance, is amperage.

Fidelity

Built to Last

Team Sound Asleep

24Runner Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196657-24runner-sleeper-system-lots-of-fi-neo-dd-focal-new-video-w-juicebox-lithium/

2 x 12" Fi BTL N2 / 2 x 12" Fi BTL N3

2 DD M3b

Maxwell 2.7V 3000F Supercapacitors

Pioneer DEH-80prs

Focal P165 V30 components

Rockford Fosgate T-400.4

Posted

Hmm... well the enclosure is the same (in my sig)

2 group31s mounted in the rear, 1 d3100 under hood. All 2/0 power and grounds. Alternator is stock :( 140a that is overdriven.

So... same setup, adding 1k watts will make no noticeable difference? No argument... just hard to swallow.

Yeah, I know its probably not what you want to hear, but adding 1,000 watts to a 2,000 watt system won't hardly make a difference.

A 1 db increase is the smallest increase that's discernible by the human ear and you have to really pay attention and listen HARD to hear it. A lot of people can't hear it at all.

A 3 db increase is what most people describe as being 15-20% louder and it requires a doubling of input power to get. So if you are only increasing your input power by about 50% you are only going to get around 1 db of increase. Food for thought.

That makes sense. I suppose I'm not really looking for "louder" but punchier... if that makes sense. It was plenty loud for my tastes but wouldnt mind feeling it a bit more. I was also really pushing the last amp... so if I can get a bit more out of this one while getting a cleaner sound, it'll be a win as far as I'm concerned.

technically if you know the voltage that your amp is supposed to unload at, and you also know that it does unload there cleanly. you could set your gain with a DMM with no load on the amplifier. An amplifier should put out the same voltage at any ohm load, the only change, due to the resistance, is amperage.

That makes sense.

Waiting for the dd-1 to show up at my door step so I can setup this amp and see what it can do. The previous amp was set with a DMM so I'm curious just how much of a difference having the right tool for the job will make along with the added juice. We'll see in a couple of days I suppose.

03' Black Z71 Tahoe
3" Lift / 315/70/R17 Goodyear Duratracs
Eclipse AVN6620 Touchscreen Head Unit
Hifonics BRX3016 - 3krms @ 1ohm
2 RE Auido SX 18s - 14.5^3ft net @ 30hz w/ 200^2in. port
120hp Cummins 4bta Swap

Posted

No, because when dealing with the AC output of an amplifier, a DMM doesn't tell you a power factor. Plus, while you may be wired to 1ohm resistance, the impedance of the subwoofer is constantly changing as the cone moves and air pressure changes and etc.. So many factors.

Buy an AMM-1, get all of the power readings you want, and prepare for disappointment due to impedance rise. Good news is you can do a frequency sweep to find your lowest impedance and that frequency is when your sub will be seeing the most power (assuming environment never changes :rofl:)

is that chart exact hell no but will it get you in the ball park YES at the nominal ohm load

and what will he do with the information on the sweep to see your lowest impedance

like sweet i only rise .3 ohms at 55hz and put out 3000 watts WOOHOOO great for a burb but how does that help this guy?

or you can buy $1000+ in testing equipment for your 800 dollar system use the DD-1 you got it will give you the most clean power you can get

He said he wanted to know how much he was actually putting out. Knowing his lowest reactive impedance will put him much closer ,"in the ballpark" as you say, than that chart will, for what the most power he is putting out with that amp.

Posted

hifonics amps need max power to give rated power. so if you want them to give you what they say you will need to give them what they need. your going to need a good alt and maybe an extra battery. then you will be good.

Well... I've got 2 group 31s mounted in the rear... an XS d3100 under hood... all power and grounds are 2/0. The main power and grounds to the amp are ~3' from the battery they are tied to and again, 2/0. The only stock electrical system component is the alternator and I've been holding off on it as this one still works and I dont want to drop $400+ until its needed.

So... so far in this thread... Ive been told that my idea wont give me an idea of what the amp makes power wise... or it could give me an idea of what it makes real world.... And that the 1kw power difference may be noticeable or wont be at all....

Hmmm...

at that low power you will noticed a 1k difference..... the chart will get you in the ball park at what power you will get at your nominal ohm load

Why do you NEED to know how much power you are making?

if you just have to know your going to have to buy some type of tools like reedal said amm-1 is your best bet

My question is what are you going to do with that information?

tune it with the dd-1 and it will dial you in to get the most clean power from your amp be it 100 watts or 10,000

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

Posted

I wanted the information because I hadn't seen it posted anywhere. I know these amps used to put out rated power and I had heard from different sources that they no longer did.

With that in mind, if I had the tools on hand, I would test it myself and post that info for others to find. Other then that, I don't really care. Just curious mainly.

Thanks for the input guys.

03' Black Z71 Tahoe
3" Lift / 315/70/R17 Goodyear Duratracs
Eclipse AVN6620 Touchscreen Head Unit
Hifonics BRX3016 - 3krms @ 1ohm
2 RE Auido SX 18s - 14.5^3ft net @ 30hz w/ 200^2in. port
120hp Cummins 4bta Swap

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 896 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...