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Replacing speaker wires in doors


RooTxBeeR

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So about 2 years ago I started having issues with my front doors. I changed the channel the speaker wires went to on the amp, and they worked again. Never bothered to look into it, and seeing as how I drove my motorcycle every day and rarely drove my car, didn't care to invest the time or money to fix it up yet. Well, not riding anymore because my accident totaled the bike and I won't commute to work anymore so I drive a lot now, and it's nothing but bass. Which sucks lol. I have new front and rear speakers on the way so I went to start looking into what the issue was from back then. I turn on some music, pull out the older speaker wires in the doors, and put a speaker onto it, and nothing comes out. So I go and grab some spare wire, and test every channel directly with this new wire to see if it's amp side. Every single channel sounds exactly the same in loudness. So I am pretty damn sure the amp is fine. So I then rewire the speaker to the door's wires and start fumbling around with the wires in the door, where I spliced the factory wire behind the HU to see if maybe something was loose. To no avail, could I get them to produce sound through the stock wiring that's ran through the dash to doors. So, now it looks like I need to wire up some new wires all the way from amp, through the dash and into the doors. I have been trying to find video's on how to do it, and all the ones I find. The grommet hole that the wires run through, is really low. My car however, a 2004 Ford Escape, that grommet hole is way at the top in the dash. Anyone have any idea how to wire some new wires, without having to rip apart the entire dash and remove it just to get access to that grommet? I have the speakers on the way already so I am hoping to get this done soon so once they are here. Just screw them in and we are all ready to go. This will also be the first passive set of components I have in my car. So I am still undecided on if I should put the crossover inside the door or just run 2 sets from front to back for each side for the tweeter and woofer.

So are you getting no signal from the output speaker wires from the headunit harness?

And why would new speaker wire from the mids/highs amp entail wiring behind the dash?

No it's not that. I took the wires that went from the factory harness to the wires in every door. And cut them, so I could wire right from there, to the amp. And not have to run wires through the doors like I am now. I haven't checked to see if they are getting signal, but if I put some wire on the speaker, put the positive and negative straight to the amp, bam, it comes alive. Hook those wires up to the ones in the doors that are connected to the amp, nothing.

Use CL2/CMP rated UL listed speaker wire. Monoprice sells spools of it pretty cheap, i recommend the 18/2 nimbus series, It's $10 for a 50ft spool.. The cheaper ones are too rigid for door jambs.

You're going to have to partially disassemble your dash, now way around it.

I have a bunch of wire still from when I bought 500ft years ago in a sale. it's 16awg that's nice and plyable.

Drill from inside the door as you should be able to get it through the speaker hole.

I went out and looked. I can drill from the inside of the car at an angle to get the door.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Back in the day my buddy was trying to run wires through the firewall. He was using a coat hanger and got it half way through the main loom and the horn would honk if it was in the right position! Never use metal.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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Today's stock wiring is barely able to cope with the demands needed, and then you want to stress it by trying to pass wire next to it, i'll pass.

I would rather drill a hole and use some door looms knowing the only thing passing through that is speaker wire, as long as you can pass it off as something stock, it won't hurt you when it is time to sell it off looking like a hack job.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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  • 3 weeks later...

I talked to my neighbor who is a mechanic at a chevy dealer. One of the main reasons I couldn't, or didn't think I could. The main wire grommet, at the part where it connects to the body of the car, had a huge plastic wire connector that was in my eyes, immovable. He had showed me how to completely remove it, detach the two pieces, and even a way to make the holes in it big enough to pass some wires through it. It is a very clever idea that I think will really work. So I bought extra grommets that I don't even need haha. I am going to take a bunch of pics and show how I did it.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Share on other sites

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