Replacing speaker wires in doors

[RooTxBeeR]

So about 2 years ago I started having issues with my front doors. I changed the channel the speaker wires went to on the amp, and they worked again. Never bothered to look into it, and seeing as how I drove my motorcycle every day and rarely drove my car, didn't care to invest the time or money to fix it up yet. Well, not riding anymore because my accident totaled the bike and I won't commute to work anymore so I drive a lot now, and it's nothing but bass. Which sucks lol. I have new front and rear speakers on the way so I went to start looking into what the issue was from back then. I turn on some music, pull out the older speaker wires in the doors, and put a speaker onto it, and nothing comes out. So I go and grab some spare wire, and test every channel directly with this new wire to see if it's amp side. Every single channel sounds exactly the same in loudness. So I am pretty damn sure the amp is fine. So I then rewire the speaker to the door's wires and start fumbling around with the wires in the door, where I spliced the factory wire behind the HU to see if maybe something was loose. To no avail, could I get them to produce sound through the stock wiring that's ran through the dash to doors. So, now it looks like I need to wire up some new wires all the way from amp, through the dash and into the doors. I have been trying to find video's on how to do it, and all the ones I find. The grommet hole that the wires run through, is really low. My car however, a 2004 Ford Escape, that grommet hole is way at the top in the dash. Anyone have any idea how to wire some new wires, without having to rip apart the entire dash and remove it just to get access to that grommet? I have the speakers on the way already so I am hoping to get this done soon so once they are here. Just screw them in and we are all ready to go. This will also be the first passive set of components I have in my car. So I am still undecided on if I should put the crossover inside the door or just run 2 sets from front to back for each side for the tweeter and woofer.

So are you getting no signal from the output speaker wires from the headunit harness?

And why would new speaker wire from the mids/highs amp entail wiring behind the dash?

No it's not that. I took the wires that went from the factory harness to the wires in every door. And cut them, so I could wire right from there, to the amp. And not have to run wires through the doors like I am now. I haven't checked to see if they are getting signal, but if I put some wire on the speaker, put the positive and negative straight to the amp, bam, it comes alive. Hook those wires up to the ones in the doors that are connected to the amp, nothing.

Use CL2/CMP rated UL listed speaker wire. Monoprice sells spools of it pretty cheap, i recommend the 18/2 nimbus series, It's $10 for a 50ft spool.. The cheaper ones are too rigid for door jambs.

You're going to have to partially disassemble your dash, now way around it.

I have a bunch of wire still from when I bought 500ft years ago in a sale. it's 16awg that's nice and plyable.

Drill from inside the door as you should be able to get it through the speaker hole.

I went out and looked. I can drill from the inside of the car at an angle to get the door.

[Guest]

Mechanics wire and pull through like a fiber run, even grease it up if you have to.

thats an awful idea you could easily create a pinch in the wire

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

Back in the day my buddy was trying to run wires through the firewall. He was using a coat hanger and got it half way through the main loom and the horn would honk if it was in the right position! Never use metal.

[Skullz]

Today's stock wiring is barely able to cope with the demands needed, and then you want to stress it by trying to pass wire next to it, i'll pass.

I would rather drill a hole and use some door looms knowing the only thing passing through that is speaker wire, as long as you can pass it off as something stock, it won't hurt you when it is time to sell it off looking like a hack job.

[RooTxBeeR]

I talked to my neighbor who is a mechanic at a chevy dealer. One of the main reasons I couldn't, or didn't think I could. The main wire grommet, at the part where it connects to the body of the car, had a huge plastic wire connector that was in my eyes, immovable. He had showed me how to completely remove it, detach the two pieces, and even a way to make the holes in it big enough to pass some wires through it. It is a very clever idea that I think will really work. So I bought extra grommets that I don't even need haha. I am going to take a bunch of pics and show how I did it.