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Replacing speaker wires in doors


RooTxBeeR

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Posted

So about 2 years ago I started having issues with my front doors. I changed the channel the speaker wires went to on the amp, and they worked again. Never bothered to look into it, and seeing as how I drove my motorcycle every day and rarely drove my car, didn't care to invest the time or money to fix it up yet. Well, not riding anymore because my accident totaled the bike and I won't commute to work anymore so I drive a lot now, and it's nothing but bass. Which sucks lol. I have new front and rear speakers on the way so I went to start looking into what the issue was from back then. I turn on some music, pull out the older speaker wires in the doors, and put a speaker onto it, and nothing comes out. So I go and grab some spare wire, and test every channel directly with this new wire to see if it's amp side. Every single channel sounds exactly the same in loudness. So I am pretty damn sure the amp is fine. So I then rewire the speaker to the door's wires and start fumbling around with the wires in the door, where I spliced the factory wire behind the HU to see if maybe something was loose. To no avail, could I get them to produce sound through the stock wiring that's ran through the dash to doors. So, now it looks like I need to wire up some new wires all the way from amp, through the dash and into the doors. I have been trying to find video's on how to do it, and all the ones I find. The grommet hole that the wires run through, is really low. My car however, a 2004 Ford Escape, that grommet hole is way at the top in the dash. Anyone have any idea how to wire some new wires, without having to rip apart the entire dash and remove it just to get access to that grommet? I have the speakers on the way already so I am hoping to get this done soon so once they are here. Just screw them in and we are all ready to go. This will also be the first passive set of components I have in my car. So I am still undecided on if I should put the crossover inside the door or just run 2 sets from front to back for each side for the tweeter and woofer.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Posted

Drill some holes and use door jam wire looms and run your wire through that.

You saying, create my own spot on the lower part, where I can get access to beneath the dash?

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Posted

I know for sure I can remove all the plastics on the inside of the car to cut the whole for their, just don't know if I can open the door all the way to get a got position to drill into the door. Thanks for the idea, will more than likely do that if there isn't an easier, better route to go.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Posted

So about 2 years ago I started having issues with my front doors. I changed the channel the speaker wires went to on the amp, and they worked again. Never bothered to look into it, and seeing as how I drove my motorcycle every day and rarely drove my car, didn't care to invest the time or money to fix it up yet. Well, not riding anymore because my accident totaled the bike and I won't commute to work anymore so I drive a lot now, and it's nothing but bass. Which sucks lol. I have new front and rear speakers on the way so I went to start looking into what the issue was from back then. I turn on some music, pull out the older speaker wires in the doors, and put a speaker onto it, and nothing comes out. So I go and grab some spare wire, and test every channel directly with this new wire to see if it's amp side. Every single channel sounds exactly the same in loudness. So I am pretty damn sure the amp is fine. So I then rewire the speaker to the door's wires and start fumbling around with the wires in the door, where I spliced the factory wire behind the HU to see if maybe something was loose. To no avail, could I get them to produce sound through the stock wiring that's ran through the dash to doors. So, now it looks like I need to wire up some new wires all the way from amp, through the dash and into the doors. I have been trying to find video's on how to do it, and all the ones I find. The grommet hole that the wires run through, is really low. My car however, a 2004 Ford Escape, that grommet hole is way at the top in the dash. Anyone have any idea how to wire some new wires, without having to rip apart the entire dash and remove it just to get access to that grommet? I have the speakers on the way already so I am hoping to get this done soon so once they are here. Just screw them in and we are all ready to go. This will also be the first passive set of components I have in my car. So I am still undecided on if I should put the crossover inside the door or just run 2 sets from front to back for each side for the tweeter and woofer.

So are you getting no signal from the output speaker wires from the headunit harness?

And why would new speaker wire from the mids/highs amp entail wiring behind the dash?

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Posted

Use CL2/CMP rated UL listed speaker wire. Monoprice sells spools of it pretty cheap, i recommend the 18/2 nimbus series, It's $10 for a 50ft spool.. The cheaper ones are too rigid for door jambs.

You're going to have to partially disassemble your dash, now way around it.

Don't trust a shop but you personally just smoked two decks, makes sense.

03' Trailblazer LT
Dayton Designer 6.5"s & Silkie tweeters
Dayton Audio Ultimax 18"
Pioneer 9601 & 8604
XS Power D3400
2 runs 1/0
Singer 250

Posted

Ive had to take doors completely off and drill my own holes to grommet.

alot of rides dont have enough room next to factory wiring

if u take the door off yourself make sure u roll the window down first because putting it back on (by yourself) is going to be awful

I rested the door on my shoulder through the open window and tightened the bolts with my other arm

honestly if you dont have much freetime it would be ideal to pay a shop to run the wire size you want

Posted

Mechanics wire and pull through like a fiber run, even grease it up if you have to.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

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    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
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  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
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    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

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