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*TUT* How to run new wires into the doors of newer cars *that have this connector*


RooTxBeeR

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I'm about to install mids in my front doors on my 2004 aviator, after seeing this I was like ugh...

I was planning on mounting the passive inside the door panel so I'm wondering if I'd just be better off running a new hole thru the door and running it along the boot.

I had the same thought, then I was thinking, I don't want to have the chance, of having to redo it all again. Because the passive crossover is bounding and rattling away inside the door. Don't get me wrong, with enough though and effort, there more than likely is a way to mount a passive crossover so it won't do that. I was limited on time and am happy with what I did. I just did 4 holes for the front doors for 2 sets of wires.

I'll be cracking open my doors in a few weeks to get a better look. I've got some ideas but I'll have to see it first before I decide. I'm trying to keep everything as clean and hidden as possible.

Good luck man, post up the results!

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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  • 1 month later...

Well luckily for me my doors still use a standard wire boot. It was still a major pain to get the wire thru the interior hole due to like every unknown module known to man being mounted behind my kick. I'm going to test the only spot I found to mount the crossover. If that doesn't work, my door panel has a closing bottom compartment that I can use and feed the wires thru.

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Get a giant zip tie and cut the tie part off. Tape your wire(s) to the wife end of the zip, and place a flashlight on the body side of the wiring hole. Shove the ziptie (wire fish) towards the light and once you can reach it pull the wire through the hole.

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I did the same thing on my components in my car, works great! Typically at work what we do though is tap in to the factory wiring inside the kick. If car has factory components in the doors, just find tweet +/- and mid +/-, cut inside kick and attach to crossover. Then all you have to do is wire up the speakers to the factory wires in the doors, typically easy due to color coding. Then I'd usually just drop a speaker wire down to the kick from the headunit/amp for the crossover input, that way it bypasses any factory crossover settings

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Get a giant zip tie and cut the tie part off. Tape your wire(s) to the wife end of the zip, and place a flashlight on the body side of the wiring hole. Shove the ziptie (wire fish) towards the light and once you can reach it pull the wire through the hole.

x2 this. I did a similar method, took a heat shrink, put over the ends and shrunk it. Then spit on it and crammed it through lmao.

I did the same thing on my components in my car, works great! Typically at work what we do though is tap in to the factory wiring inside the kick. If car has factory components in the doors, just find tweet +/- and mid +/-, cut inside kick and attach to crossover. Then all you have to do is wire up the speakers to the factory wires in the doors, typically easy due to color coding. Then I'd usually just drop a speaker wire down to the kick from the headunit/amp for the crossover input, that way it bypasses any factory crossover settings

Tapping into my stock wiring is what I did originally, but something went wrong with the stock wiring and stopped working and sending signal all together.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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I thought about tapping into the factory wires but I got all this sky high wire for my mids. I got my wires thru the boot with little issue without any tricks, just getting thru that tiny packed space under the kick panel was a mild pain at first. If I'd used cheaper wire I bet it would've been easier, the sky high is very flexible and floppy compared to the stiff bargain stuff.

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Ya there's a thousand ways to do it. Sometimes I run all new wire through the door, sometimes new wire from amp to door jam and use factory wire inside the door, or today we did a 4 channel running 9 conductor speed wire to the factory connections behind the headunit. Anyway works and this is a good write up

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