14Fusion Posted April 30, 2016 Report Posted April 30, 2016 I have looked through the forum on this, but I suppose I havent used the proper search terms. I want to hook up a second battery, and need to know if both positive and negative terminals need to be connected or if I can ground the rear battery to the frame. I have a 0 AWG run from my D1200 in the front with a 240A Singer and kind of dont want to put the effort of running the second 0 AWG if I dont need to. I dont need the second battery, but I had it from a different build that ended up in the junkyard, so I didnt want to waste a good XS D5600 battery.
reedal Posted May 1, 2016 Report Posted May 1, 2016 positive to positive, negative to negative/frame. how much power are you running? Tony D and Tony C did a test video showing that systems over 3kW benefited from running a ground to the front battery's negative terminal. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
ChevyBoy95 Posted May 1, 2016 Report Posted May 1, 2016 positive to positive, negative to negative/frame. how much power are you running? Tony D and Tony C did a test video showing that systems over 3kW benefited from running a ground to the front battery's negative terminal. That test was specific to his vehicle, not all vehicles. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
reedal Posted May 1, 2016 Report Posted May 1, 2016 positive to positive, negative to negative/frame. how much power are you running? Tony D and Tony C did a test video showing that systems over 3kW benefited from running a ground to the front battery's negative terminal.That test was specific to his vehicle, not all vehicles. Fair enough SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted May 1, 2016 Report Posted May 1, 2016 A separate ground might be needed for a unit body vehicle. Full frame vehicles benefit from cutting a hole in the floor to ground directly to the frame. The big 3 would have a ground from the frame to the battery and alt / motor to battery. Also you will need a fuse at the front battery as well as the rear so in the event of an accident the pinched cable will disconnect from both batteries. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)
GS300Cali93 Posted May 1, 2016 Report Posted May 1, 2016 A separate ground might be needed for a unit body vehicle. Full frame vehicles benefit from cutting a hole in the floor to ground directly to the frame. The big 3 would have a ground from the frame to the battery and alt / motor to battery. Also you will need a fuse at the front battery as well as the rear so in the event of an accident the pinched cable will disconnect from both batteries. I have 98 Subaru. Forester planning on running second. Battery need some detail. Do. I run + to + - to - then second. Battery - to frame? And you said I need a fuse on both ends?
14Fusion Posted May 1, 2016 Author Report Posted May 1, 2016 positive to positive, negative to negative/frame. how much power are you running? Tony D and Tony C did a test video showing that systems over 3kW benefited from running a ground to the front battery's negative terminal. Running about 2500 watts at the moment, but Im looking to be able to expand without doing too much extra electrical. A separate ground might be needed for a unit body vehicle. Full frame vehicles benefit from cutting a hole in the floor to ground directly to the frame. The big 3 would have a ground from the frame to the battery and alt / motor to battery. Also you will need a fuse at the front battery as well as the rear so in the event of an accident the pinched cable will disconnect from both batteries. I have a unibody, so recommendation is having a negative run from the front battery to the rear? I would hope that just using a factory ground in the rear would work because there is alot of crap behind my firewall making it difficult to run wire. I do have the big three done, H/O alt and have all the fusing required for both batteries. I suppose I will try using a grounding point in the rear and hope it works, if not ill have to really explore a better manner of running cable to the trunk.
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