sinister317 Posted August 14, 2016 Report Posted August 14, 2016 I want to know if it would be ok to put a cut off switch linked to the power wire of the 2nd battery so when I'm done banging for the day I could just cut the power to 2nd battery so it doesn't pull a charge from my starting battery overnight. And then when I'm ready to roll the next day I'd just switch it back on and start my ride. I wasn't sure if this would be bad for 2nd battery and I don't really drive that car too much it's also stored during winters.
RooTxBeeR Posted August 14, 2016 Report Posted August 14, 2016 If it's a daily vehicle you won't need to do that, just wire them up in parallel and let it roll On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
sinister317 Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Posted August 14, 2016 Yeah that's what I was thinking but then again I heard of ppl blowing up batteries from over chargeing them. I don't want them problems either lol. All I'm trying to do it keep my voltage solid I'm not running a million amps?.
3vil Posted August 14, 2016 Report Posted August 14, 2016 Yeah, as long as they are both the same type of battery construction then the rear battery isn't going magically suck current from the front when the engine is off.
sinister317 Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Posted August 14, 2016 Yeah, as long as they are both the same type of battery construction then the rear battery isn't going magically suck current from the front when the engine is off.yeah there both agm and have about the same amp hours. The starting battery has 81 the extra has 80ah.
RooTxBeeR Posted August 14, 2016 Report Posted August 14, 2016 Yeah that's what I was thinking but then again I heard of ppl blowing up batteries from over chargeing them. I don't want them problems either lol. All I'm trying to do it keep my voltage solid I'm not running a million amps. Over charging has nothing to do with putting multiple batteries together in banks. That would have to do with them stepping up their charging voltage to too high of a level and it fucks the batteries up. You said both are AGM, that is even better. Usually the only time you will ever have any issues with batteries draining each other when not being isolated is when it is 2 complete different types of batteries. But that still is only even an issue if they only get charged once or a few times a week. If it gets started and runs once or multiple times a day like a regular daily does, then you will see no issues. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
sinister317 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Posted August 15, 2016 Ok cool. I'll just remember to disconnect the 2nd one when I store the car. Cuz at that point I only start the car once every week or so.
RooTxBeeR Posted August 15, 2016 Report Posted August 15, 2016 Ok cool. I'll just remember to disconnect the 2nd one when I store the car. Cuz at that point I only start the car once every week or so. That is the point where an isolator or switch would be useful and actually be needed. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
MrSkippyJ Posted August 15, 2016 Report Posted August 15, 2016 I would just keep them both connected even then, and keep them on a trickle charge. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
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