06RTCharger Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 Id do 11 runs of 8/0 for that 210 amps your gonna see, hot, at full load......... Or a single run of 1/0 would do also. I gotta ask, what wire do you have that is 4/0 ? Whos the maker? Just curious... Lol funny guy. I dont have it but i was gonna order the knukoncepts kolossis (not sure on the spelling). Its there 4/0 power wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted September 18, 2016 Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 It's cheaper to do multiple runs of 1/0, Fuse holders for big ass wires are not cheap at all, nor are distribution blocks, or lugs, or anything else that goes along with it. Aren't you doing an Sq build? Thats a good point, i didnt even look for a 4/0 block yet. But i was planning on going with knukoncepts kolossis. I only seen terminals in 4/0 if i remember correctly, all their blocks only went up to 1/0. Can you reccomend a site where i could check prices on 4/0 blocks and fuseholders? If its outrageous ill look more into maybe just 2runs 1/0.Toolmaker metalworkz.He's on Facebook and there's a few stores that carry his stuff like xplicit audio and droppinhz car audio. I'd link you but none of them are a vendor here so a link is frowned upon. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted September 18, 2016 Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 If I did 4/0, I would use crimp lugs so I could use fuse holders and battery terminals with studs. The battery terminals would be my junction blocks. You want to run 4/0 from your alt to your battery that's in the back. Here we go again. How are you going to fuse it? 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 It's cheaper to do multiple runs of 1/0, Fuse holders for big ass wires are not cheap at all, nor are distribution blocks, or lugs, or anything else that goes along with it. Aren't you doing an Sq build? Thats a good point, i didnt even look for a 4/0 block yet. But i was planning on going with knukoncepts kolossis. I only seen terminals in 4/0 if i remember correctly, all their blocks only went up to 1/0. Can you reccomend a site where i could check prices on 4/0 blocks and fuseholders? If its outrageous ill look more into maybe just 2runs 1/0.Toolmaker metalworkz.He's on Facebook and there's a few stores that carry his stuff like xplicit audio and droppinhz car audio. I'd link you but none of them are a vendor here so a link is frowned upon. Thanks ill check it out tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 If I did 4/0, I would use crimp lugs so I could use fuse holders and battery terminals with studs. The battery terminals would be my junction blocks. You want to run 4/0 from your alt to your battery that's in the back. Here we go again. How are you going to fuse it? Keep in mind im completely new to this level of install. Im lookin for help, i dont have all the answers lol thats why im here asking you guys. Id assume id be fusing the positive coming from the battery, and fusing it as close to the battery terminal as possible? What do you suggest??? I started this topic to clear up one issue with big 3-4, and the question was simple, is it safe to run larger than needed Big3 wires. I didnt want to ask too many questions in one post. I wanted to keep the question simple, so i could get a little bit more simple answers. I understand car audio answers are hardly ever simple tho lol. So whats wrong with 4/0 going from positive on my battery(stock rear location) to the alt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted September 18, 2016 Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 Nothing but If it's not needed you are literally just throwing money down the toilet. Personally I would stick to 1/0 and do multiple runs if needed, it's cheaper, it's easier to work with, accessories for it are readily available, and two runs of 1/0 has more current carrying capability than one run of 4/0 That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 Just seen the topic post on this section with the "wire/fuse guide", super helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 Nothing but If it's not needed you are literally just throwing money down the toilet. Personally I would stick to 1/0 and do multiple runs if needed, it's cheaper, it's easier to work with, accessories for it are readily available, and two runs of 1/0 has more current carrying capability than one run of 4/0 Well i wont need it "now" but i know myself and in a year or two i know im gonna want to change up subs and amps, maybe try out a full on spl type of setup. Just tryna make my first moves the right moves. Thats why i got all kinds of topics going of different areas of car audio. But the only reason i was thinking the 4/0 would be better for power block is because i was assuming that one run 4/0 would be equal to 3-4 runs of 1/0 power capability, with WAY smaller space needed with one run 4/0. So thats not the case though??Only Two runs 1/0 is capable of supplying more current than one run 4/0?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 Nothing but If it's not needed you are literally just throwing money down the toilet. Personally I would stick to 1/0 and do multiple runs if needed, it's cheaper, it's easier to work with, accessories for it are readily available, and two runs of 1/0 has more current carrying capability than one run of 4/0 I just went back to look at that wire/fuse guide post. From there it states two 1/0 would be equal to one 4/0, power wise. So if they are the same in capability, i guess i got to narrow it down with cost and style. I do like the idea of running a thickazz rare cable. I think one run also looks a lil cleaner as an install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 Nothing but If it's not needed you are literally just throwing money down the toilet. Personally I would stick to 1/0 and do multiple runs if needed, it's cheaper, it's easier to work with, accessories for it are readily available, and two runs of 1/0 has more current carrying capability than one run of 4/0 I just went back to look at that wire/fuse guide post. From there it states two 1/0 would be equal to one 4/0, power wise. So if they are the same in capability, i guess i got to narrow it down with cost and style. I do like the idea of running a thickazz rare cable. I think one run also looks a lil cleaner as an install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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