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Optical signal


06RTCharger

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That's what I said dude, lol

When i was askin if lower V signals make the amp work harder, i was refering to gain. Which seems to be true. ThAts also why i started this topic, because toslink cables dont carry electric signals, it carrys light. So it must be a 0v signal. So i thought that meant i would need an amp that is well over powered for the speakers, so that i can match the gain to the speakers without having to run the amp at its max gain the whole time. I want my equipment to have easy work lol.

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in that case the amp would do the conversion to the low level signal rather than the processor. It has to be converted at some point

also, the amp doesn't really work harder with a lower voltage, the input stage works harder but that is all done before the amplification part.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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That's what I said dude, lol

When i was askin if lower V signals make the amp work harder, i was refering to gain. Which seems to be true. ThAts also why i started this topic, because toslink cables dont carry electric signals, it carrys light. So it must be a 0v signal. So i thought that meant i would need an amp that is well over powered for the speakers, so that i can match the gain to the speakers without having to run the amp at its max gain the whole time. I want my equipment to have easy work lol.

that paragraph is wrong. gain means jack squat to how "hard an amp works" headunit voltage is more about "noise floor" and in todays tech, even shitty headunits can have 975 volt outputs and shit tons of noise. higher voltage outputs at one time were an indicator that a device had a good dynamic range and signal to noise ratio. thats not true anymore.

like i said, just because something has 5 or 9 or whatever outputs does not mean it is a quality 5 or 9 or whatever volts. that in and of itself has nothing to do with how hard an amp works.

using the preout voltage as some arbitrary indicator of quality is like saying rms is a quantifier of loudness.

Broke knows what i am trying to say, and i may not be able to put it in words but simplest terms, pre out voltage does not mean shit to an amplifier, the information in the voltage is what counts

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That's what I said dude, lol

When i was askin if lower V signals make the amp work harder, i was refering to gain. Which seems to be true. ThAts also why i started this topic, because toslink cables dont carry electric signals, it carrys light. So it must be a 0v signal. So i thought that meant i would need an amp that is well over powered for the speakers, so that i can match the gain to the speakers without having to run the amp at its max gain the whole time. I want my equipment to have easy work lol.

that paragraph is wrong. gain means jack squat to how "hard an amp works" headunit voltage is more about "noise floor" and in todays tech, even shitty headunits can have 975 volt outputs and shit tons of noise. higher voltage outputs at one time were an indicator that a device had a good dynamic range and signal to noise ratio. thats not true anymore.

like i said, just because something has 5 or 9 or whatever outputs does not mean it is a quality 5 or 9 or whatever volts. that in and of itself has nothing to do with how hard an amp works.

using the preout voltage as some arbitrary indicator of quality is like saying rms is a quantifier of loudness.

Broke knows what i am trying to say, and i may not be able to put it in words but simplest terms, pre out voltage does not mean shit to an amplifier, the information in the voltage is what counts

Alright, and how do i find out if its a bullsht 5v signal or a quality 5v signal, what do i look for? How do i find out if its "quality information" within that signal? What do you recommend??

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That's what I said dude, lol

When i was askin if lower V signals make the amp work harder, i was refering to gain. Which seems to be true. ThAts also why i started this topic, because toslink cables dont carry electric signals, it carrys light. So it must be a 0v signal. So i thought that meant i would need an amp that is well over powered for the speakers, so that i can match the gain to the speakers without having to run the amp at its max gain the whole time. I want my equipment to have easy work lol.

that paragraph is wrong. gain means jack squat to how "hard an amp works" headunit voltage is more about "noise floor" and in todays tech, even shitty headunits can have 975 volt outputs and shit tons of noise. higher voltage outputs at one time were an indicator that a device had a good dynamic range and signal to noise ratio. thats not true anymore.

like i said, just because something has 5 or 9 or whatever outputs does not mean it is a quality 5 or 9 or whatever volts. that in and of itself has nothing to do with how hard an amp works.

using the preout voltage as some arbitrary indicator of quality is like saying rms is a quantifier of loudness.

Broke knows what i am trying to say, and i may not be able to put it in words but simplest terms, pre out voltage does not mean shit to an amplifier, the information in the voltage is what counts

Alright, and how do i find out if its a bullsht 5v signal or a quality 5v signal, what do i look for? How do i find out if its "quality information" within that signal? What do you recommend??

that is the question you have to ask, and the answer i dont have.

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That's what I said dude, lol

When i was askin if lower V signals make the amp work harder, i was refering to gain. Which seems to be true. ThAts also why i started this topic, because toslink cables dont carry electric signals, it carrys light. So it must be a 0v signal. So i thought that meant i would need an amp that is well over powered for the speakers, so that i can match the gain to the speakers without having to run the amp at its max gain the whole time. I want my equipment to have easy work lol.

that paragraph is wrong. gain means jack squat to how "hard an amp works" headunit voltage is more about "noise floor" and in todays tech, even shitty headunits can have 975 volt outputs and shit tons of noise. higher voltage outputs at one time were an indicator that a device had a good dynamic range and signal to noise ratio. thats not true anymore.

like i said, just because something has 5 or 9 or whatever outputs does not mean it is a quality 5 or 9 or whatever volts. that in and of itself has nothing to do with how hard an amp works.

using the preout voltage as some arbitrary indicator of quality is like saying rms is a quantifier of loudness.

Broke knows what i am trying to say, and i may not be able to put it in words but simplest terms, pre out voltage does not mean shit to an amplifier, the information in the voltage is what counts

Alright, and how do i find out if its a bullsht 5v signal or a quality 5v signal, what do i look for? How do i find out if its "quality information" within that signal? What do you recommend??

that is the question you have to ask, and the answer i dont have.

Lmao alright man, thanks.

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Here is the solution for you, you can't possibly keep the signal digital any longer than this setup does,

Converts it to analog right at the speaker and it's full digital until that point.

Let us know how it works out, not even being sarcastic, I'm genuinely interested in how these perform, especially given clarion's claims.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_113475_Clarion-Complete-Full-Digital-Sound-Hi-Res-Audio-System.html

I'd like to see hdmi utilized in the car audio industry,

That would change the game,

You could have all your audio signal plus many other things all with one simple connection..

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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Here is the solution for you, you can't possibly keep the signal digital any longer than this setup does,

Converts it to analog right at the speaker and it's full digital until that point.

Let us know how it works out, not even being sarcastic, I'm genuinely interested in how these perform, especially given clarion's claims.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_113475_Clarion-Complete-Full-Digital-Sound-Hi-Res-Audio-System.html

I'd like to see hdmi utilized in the car audio industry,

That would change the game,

You could have all your audio signal plus many other things all with one simple connection..

Thats my whole point, i want to be one that is trying to push the car audio world forward by supporting the digital stuff. But then again im not interested in the full system they offer lol. Theres not enough reviews on that for me and not enough options to gamble on it. I dont mind having the DAC applied at the amp and sending analog from amp to speaker, ill settle for that part till more reviews of those full digital systems come out. I like to select each peice of equipment in the system. With that clarion full digital system there is only one option of each thing. I dont want to be the "guinea pig" lol.

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Well if you want to be different and try to help advance things then you'll probably have to take some risks,

$2k isn't an expensive gamble for a whole system,

You could easily drop that on a single amp alone,

You're getting a head unit, dsp, mids, highs, and subs, for that price with the clarion setup.

Someone has to guinea pig it, why not you if you got the money to play with?

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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