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Need suggestions on wiring, fuses , rcas, etc


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I plan on getting all my power wire and rcas, fuses from knukonceptz, but I'm not sure what size wire and fuses

I'm going to have 1 fi Q 18, sae-1500d so assuming 0ga wire for ground and power

4 channel is maybe 800rms tops. And I have no idea what Size wire maybe 4ga??

And I'm assuming just get 2 pairs of rcas one for each amp

I am planning on at least a second battery in the back so idk how many fuses or what amperage

300amp maybe? One between under the hood and amp and one between amp and second batt

Help me please

 

 

 

 

 

this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done

95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7

Xs power d3400

Singer 275amp alternator

Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders

Sundown SAE-1500d

Mbquart onyx OA800.4

Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter

Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz

Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U

Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors

Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear

GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner

Xenon 10k Blue HIDs

 

 

 

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Dayum bro. Lol. Where to begin?

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/1005-wirefuse-guide/?fromsearch=1

Thats a link to a great wire/fuse guide that someone posted on here before. The wires fuse is just to insure ur wire doesnt over heat and burn and cook ur car lol. So the wire fuse isnt dependant on what its connected to. For example, ur amps dont affect what size ur power wire should be fused at, all ur doing is protecting the wire from burning up. ANL style fuses are usually recommended.

As for the Rcas, depends how many channels u tend on using on the amps. Normally i think its one RCA plug per speaker when its setup as an "active" style system. Also depends on how many outputs ur headunit or dsp has.

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I suggest starting at the bottom of the system and work ur way up. Sounds like ur going to overwhelm urself with so much things at once. Start with getting electrical done, that is if ur not deadening. Oh and if u plan on sound deadening ur vehicle, Second Skin just verified they are going to run a newyears sale, look for them on this forum under the SMD partners section. If u were planning on deadening already then id suggest focusing on getting all ur electrical stuff together so u can lay ur wires same time as u lay ur deadener. Wouldnt be fun to pull the whole interior twice lol.

Disclaimer, im a noob Lol

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OFC tinned wires (oxygen free copper) are recommended and because of that, id suggest every other copper item within ur build should be tinned. Like the wire lugs/terminals. Try not to have anything copper exposed to the air, it might devolpe corrosion and cause electrical shortouts and issues u DO NOT want in ur vehicle.

Also i HIGHLY!!! Recommend these cutters if you plan on doing ur own install. Its rediculous how easy these cutters can cut through huge wire. I used it on 4/0, 0000awg not 4awg.

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Yea I understand what there for but I was curious about the placement and qty, should I not have 3 inline anl fuses?

And I'm hoping I can just get a good sized battery under my hood and get another for the back because the guy I bought the truck from just put a brand new alternator in it so I was just gonna do big 3 and hope it was good but I will just have to find out when I get there.

And I'm going to wait to deaden to see my problem spots. I may buy some during the sale but still hold off till I get some stuff rattling ( I know a lot of people recommend doing it first)

The head unit I ordered says outputs: 6 channel pre amp out puts

 

 

 

 

 

this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done

95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7

Xs power d3400

Singer 275amp alternator

Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders

Sundown SAE-1500d

Mbquart onyx OA800.4

Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter

Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz

Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U

Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors

Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear

GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner

Xenon 10k Blue HIDs

 

 

 

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Don't second guess anything, when in doubt, just get the largest you can afford.

1/0 will do for now and you can either fuse the run from front to back or not fuse it, and shield as best you can with wire loom and techflex and avoid sharp corners and hot spots to prevent the wire from contacting the body.

Use as many rca's as you think you'll need to get it done, it is always best to run them from the H/U back instead of an amplifiers built in crossover to jump to other amps as most H/U's have better control.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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I looked on the back of the h/u and it has 3 white and 3 red out puts so I just need a set of rcas for my mono block amp and one set for my 4 channel amp right?

And can I get wire loom from Knu?

 

 

 

 

 

this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done

95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7

Xs power d3400

Singer 275amp alternator

Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders

Sundown SAE-1500d

Mbquart onyx OA800.4

Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter

Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz

Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U

Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors

Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear

GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner

Xenon 10k Blue HIDs

 

 

 

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Yes - on the RCA's

You can get wire loom at any auto parts store, and techflech on ebay from furryletters store, just google furryletters and you'll get the listing first to take you to the store.

Ok cool, and I'm just going to order a 4ga amp install kit from knu for 4 channel

 

 

 

 

 

this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done

95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7

Xs power d3400

Singer 275amp alternator

Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders

Sundown SAE-1500d

Mbquart onyx OA800.4

Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter

Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz

Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U

Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors

Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear

GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner

Xenon 10k Blue HIDs

 

 

 

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If you add the battery, you will run the 1/0awg from the front battery to the back battery. You will fuse within a foot from the back battery to the fuse size recommended for 1/0, usually 300-350amp. From the back battery you then will wire to your amps. If your amps have fuses built in, you should be fine. If not, you should fuse the power wires going to the amps, again, to the recommended fuse size of that wire. You want to make sure you fuse every single power wire in the car that you add. There has been too many cases of people burning down their cars because of a improperly fused wire.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
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  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
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