Ideal electrical upgrade

[Gabeg1]

Yea running all ofc fosgate wire trying to do it right the first time thanks for all your help really appreciate it. Merry Christmas

[Smoove]

Going to go by max ratings these amps would probably put out @ 1ohm.

3500W TOTAL = 3500/14= 250A @14V, that's a fuckton of power, BUT that's also assuming 100% efficiency from the amplifiers, which is a wet dream we all like to have.

So, I'd recommend a 220A alternator, as the current draw wouldn't be continuous. However, a 360A would mean you'd never push the alt to it's max, plus you'd also be getting the best voltage out of it. If I were you, I'd get a 360A just as a slight overkill. I know other companies make wider ranges, but Mechman or Singer is who I recommend due to time proven performance from both companies.

Anyways, as far as batteries go, make sure they are ALL AGM, NO LED ACID. Seriously, fuck led acid for car audio, everyone knows it doesn't do well for anything other than cutting costs.

My battery recommendations: Optima Yellow Top for the STARTING BATTERY, or if you wanna spent the extra cash, just do an XS Power D3400. Then in the rear, do 2 more D3400's (estimating 2000W in the system per battery, to keep things safe for voltage). If you did 360A and 3 D3400's, you'd practically never see voltage drop that would effect your system that badly, if any real voltage drop at all.

TL;DR, read this shit you lazy fuck.

Dont forget the 50-90amps are used to keep the vehicle running

[whazoo84]

Yea running all ofc fosgate wire trying to do it right the first time thanks for all your help really appreciate it. Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas to you too, hope this all works out for you.

[whazoo84]

Going to go by max ratings these amps would probably put out @ 1ohm.

3500W TOTAL = 3500/14= 250A @14V, that's a fuckton of power, BUT that's also assuming 100% efficiency from the amplifiers, which is a wet dream we all like to have.

So, I'd recommend a 220A alternator, as the current draw wouldn't be continuous. However, a 360A would mean you'd never push the alt to it's max, plus you'd also be getting the best voltage out of it. If I were you, I'd get a 360A just as a slight overkill. I know other companies make wider ranges, but Mechman or Singer is who I recommend due to time proven performance from both companies.

Anyways, as far as batteries go, make sure they are ALL AGM, NO LED ACID. Seriously, fuck led acid for car audio, everyone knows it doesn't do well for anything other than cutting costs.

My battery recommendations: Optima Yellow Top for the STARTING BATTERY, or if you wanna spent the extra cash, just do an XS Power D3400. Then in the rear, do 2 more D3400's (estimating 2000W in the system per battery, to keep things safe for voltage). If you did 360A and 3 D3400's, you'd practically never see voltage drop that would effect your system that badly, if any real voltage drop at all.

TL;DR, read this shit you lazy fuck.

Dont forget the 50-90amps are used to keep the vehicle running

It's an impala, it shouldn't be as bad a a large truck would be. The stock coils on the spark plugs (which use quite a bit more than people think) are only around 24KV each, but low A obviously. They use about 2-4A each if I'm not mistaken (hence why they have small wires powering them, and large wires going to the plugs).

20A for the headlights (even though the fuse is 15A). Tail lights and brake lights are 20A at night. So yeah, this little pisser probably uses 70A normally if I add shit like the heater motor and interior lights. Hence why I said the best would be 360A alternator, but a 220A would be much better than stock and you'd be able to get away with it with the proper batteries. Add the 360A alt and you're good to go for as long as your subs can take the abuse.

Edit: Also, the 270A which he seems to be getting is a good mid point for this, so it'd be more than fine in the end, plus unless he's gonna try and blast it full tilt 24/7, you've got nothing to worry about.

[Gabeg1]

Going to go by max ratings these amps would probably put out @ 1ohm.

3500W TOTAL = 3500/14= 250A @14V, that's a fuckton of power, BUT that's also assuming 100% efficiency from the amplifiers, which is a wet dream we all like to have.

So, I'd recommend a 220A alternator, as the current draw wouldn't be continuous. However, a 360A would mean you'd never push the alt to it's max, plus you'd also be getting the best voltage out of it. If I were you, I'd get a 360A just as a slight overkill. I know other companies make wider ranges, but Mechman or Singer is who I recommend due to time proven performance from both companies.

Anyways, as far as batteries go, make sure they are ALL AGM, NO LED ACID. Seriously, fuck led acid for car audio, everyone knows it doesn't do well for anything other than cutting costs.

My battery recommendations: Optima Yellow Top for the STARTING BATTERY, or if you wanna spent the extra cash, just do an XS Power D3400. Then in the rear, do 2 more D3400's (estimating 2000W in the system per battery, to keep things safe for voltage). If you did 360A and 3 D3400's, you'd practically never see voltage drop that would effect your system that badly, if any real voltage drop at all.

TL;DR, read this shit you lazy fuck.

Dont forget the 50-90amps are used to keep the vehicle running

It's an impala, it shouldn't be as bad a a large truck would be. The stock coils on the spark plugs (which use quite a bit more than people think) are only around 24KV each, but low A obviously. They use about 2-4A each if I'm not mistaken (hence why they have small wires powering them, and large wires going to the plugs).

20A for the headlights (even though the fuse is 15A). Tail lights and brake lights are 20A at night. So yeah, this little pisser probably uses 70A normally if I add shit like the heater motor and interior lights. Hence why I said the best would be 360A alternator, but a 220A would be much better than stock and you'd be able to get away with it with the proper batteries. Add the 360A alt and you're good to go for as long as your subs can take the abuse.

Edit: Also, the 270A which he seems to be getting is a good mid point for this, so it'd be more than fine in the end, plus unless he's gonna try and blast it full tilt 24/7, you've got nothing to worry about.

yea definitely not 24/7 more just a couple demos at bass meets and a few songs here and there while driving but both your guys input showed me a lot and how to understand all this thanks again

[whazoo84]

Going to go by max ratings these amps would probably put out @ 1ohm.

3500W TOTAL = 3500/14= 250A @14V, that's a fuckton of power, BUT that's also assuming 100% efficiency from the amplifiers, which is a wet dream we all like to have.

So, I'd recommend a 220A alternator, as the current draw wouldn't be continuous. However, a 360A would mean you'd never push the alt to it's max, plus you'd also be getting the best voltage out of it. If I were you, I'd get a 360A just as a slight overkill. I know other companies make wider ranges, but Mechman or Singer is who I recommend due to time proven performance from both companies.

Anyways, as far as batteries go, make sure they are ALL AGM, NO LED ACID. Seriously, fuck led acid for car audio, everyone knows it doesn't do well for anything other than cutting costs.

My battery recommendations: Optima Yellow Top for the STARTING BATTERY, or if you wanna spent the extra cash, just do an XS Power D3400. Then in the rear, do 2 more D3400's (estimating 2000W in the system per battery, to keep things safe for voltage). If you did 360A and 3 D3400's, you'd practically never see voltage drop that would effect your system that badly, if any real voltage drop at all.

TL;DR, read this shit you lazy fuck.

Dont forget the 50-90amps are used to keep the vehicle running

It's an impala, it shouldn't be as bad a a large truck would be. The stock coils on the spark plugs (which use quite a bit more than people think) are only around 24KV each, but low A obviously. They use about 2-4A each if I'm not mistaken (hence why they have small wires powering them, and large wires going to the plugs).

20A for the headlights (even though the fuse is 15A). Tail lights and brake lights are 20A at night. So yeah, this little pisser probably uses 70A normally if I add shit like the heater motor and interior lights. Hence why I said the best would be 360A alternator, but a 220A would be much better than stock and you'd be able to get away with it with the proper batteries. Add the 360A alt and you're good to go for as long as your subs can take the abuse.

Edit: Also, the 270A which he seems to be getting is a good mid point for this, so it'd be more than fine in the end, plus unless he's gonna try and blast it full tilt 24/7, you've got nothing to worry about.

yea definitely not 24/7 more just a couple demos at bass meets and a few songs here and there while driving but both your guys input showed me a lot and how to understand all this thanks again

And like that, it's confirmed you're gonna love your system if you do this right. If you want some additional input on the electricals, send me a PM and I can send you comprehensive guides on how to make everything perfect.

[Gabeg1]

Going to go by max ratings these amps would probably put out @ 1ohm.

3500W TOTAL = 3500/14= 250A @14V, that's a fuckton of power, BUT that's also assuming 100% efficiency from the amplifiers, which is a wet dream we all like to have.

So, I'd recommend a 220A alternator, as the current draw wouldn't be continuous. However, a 360A would mean you'd never push the alt to it's max, plus you'd also be getting the best voltage out of it. If I were you, I'd get a 360A just as a slight overkill. I know other companies make wider ranges, but Mechman or Singer is who I recommend due to time proven performance from both companies.

Anyways, as far as batteries go, make sure they are ALL AGM, NO LED ACID. Seriously, fuck led acid for car audio, everyone knows it doesn't do well for anything other than cutting costs.

My battery recommendations: Optima Yellow Top for the STARTING BATTERY, or if you wanna spent the extra cash, just do an XS Power D3400. Then in the rear, do 2 more D3400's (estimating 2000W in the system per battery, to keep things safe for voltage). If you did 360A and 3 D3400's, you'd practically never see voltage drop that would effect your system that badly, if any real voltage drop at all.

TL;DR, read this shit you lazy fuck.

Dont forget the 50-90amps are used to keep the vehicle running

It's an impala, it shouldn't be as bad a a large truck would be. The stock coils on the spark plugs (which use quite a bit more than people think) are only around 24KV each, but low A obviously. They use about 2-4A each if I'm not mistaken (hence why they have small wires powering them, and large wires going to the plugs).

20A for the headlights (even though the fuse is 15A). Tail lights and brake lights are 20A at night. So yeah, this little pisser probably uses 70A normally if I add shit like the heater motor and interior lights. Hence why I said the best would be 360A alternator, but a 220A would be much better than stock and you'd be able to get away with it with the proper batteries. Add the 360A alt and you're good to go for as long as your subs can take the abuse.

Edit: Also, the 270A which he seems to be getting is a good mid point for this, so it'd be more than fine in the end, plus unless he's gonna try and blast it full tilt 24/7, you've got nothing to worry about.

yea definitely not 24/7 more just a couple demos at bass meets and a few songs here and there while driving but both your guys input showed me a lot and how to understand all this thanks again

And like that, it's confirmed you're gonna love your system if you do this right. If you want some additional input on the electricals, send me a PM and I can send you comprehensive guides on how to make everything perfect.

pm sent

[RooTxBeeR]

Going to go by max ratings these amps would probably put out @ 1ohm.

3500W TOTAL = 3500/14= 250A @14V, that's a fuckton of power, BUT that's also assuming 100% efficiency from the amplifiers, which is a wet dream we all like to have.

So, I'd recommend a 220A alternator, as the current draw wouldn't be continuous. However, a 360A would mean you'd never push the alt to it's max, plus you'd also be getting the best voltage out of it. If I were you, I'd get a 360A just as a slight overkill. I know other companies make wider ranges, but Mechman or Singer is who I recommend due to time proven performance from both companies.

Anyways, as far as batteries go, make sure they are ALL AGM, NO LED ACID. Seriously, fuck led acid for car audio, everyone knows it doesn't do well for anything other than cutting costs.

My battery recommendations: Optima Yellow Top for the STARTING BATTERY, or if you wanna spent the extra cash, just do an XS Power D3400. Then in the rear, do 2 more D3400's (estimating 2000W in the system per battery, to keep things safe for voltage). If you did 360A and 3 D3400's, you'd practically never see voltage drop that would effect your system that badly, if any real voltage drop at all.

TL;DR, read this shit you lazy fuck.

This is exactly how you go by it. I would like to add 1 thing into this for safe measure. When ever I do math like this, I don't just do 14v. Because like he said with assuming the amps are 100% efficient. The chances you will hold 14v constantly at all times, is another dream we have. So when I ever do these equations I do one at 14v, which is best case scenario, as well as one at 12v for a worst case. I usually do multiple ones just to get a feel for where I will be. 14v, 13v, 12v, and even 11v so if it happens I can rest assured I am giving the proper amperage demand even at the low of a voltage, just in case.