Jessica Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 you sure you didnt just switch a positive and negative on the sub terminals by accident? Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 also, pretty sure voltage is irrelevant to ohm load, your amperage will vary though. Did you test voltage with no load on the amp? Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverSettle4Midz Posted January 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Im pretty sure, would it hurt the sub or amp if i swapped the speaker wires at the box terminals to test it and see if i might have wired them backwards? (which i REALLY dont think i would have messed that up). my volt meter reads 15.1 up front at idle. i unplugged the speaker wires at the amp terminals and read the AC with the multimeter and was only getting reads of mid 10s rather than the 44.72 that i should be setting it at. and the mid 10s reading was with the gain up completely which i know should never be done. i really dont wanna have to pay some overpriced shop to look at my system and fix a 5 minute fix and charge me like crazy haha but man im lost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wehan Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Post up the exact head unit you have not just a guess of "um...Its an alpine?...from WalMart...um yeah that's what it is." We really can't offer the best help we can if we don't have all the variables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 if you only get 10v from the speaker terminals with no sub attached you might have a serious issues. even a headunit with 1v outputs with the gain cranked that amp should do more. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 wouldn't be the first set of bad RCAs in car audio... Like @ShadeTreeMechanic said check it with a 3.5mm to RCA cable and your phone to make sure it's getting good signal. 2007 Pacifica Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverSettle4Midz Posted January 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 3 hours ago, Wehan said: Post up the exact head unit you have not just a guess of "um...Its an alpine?...from WalMart...um yeah that's what it is." We really can't offer the best help we can if we don't have all the variables. Didnt think it was that important, it worked fine with my old system. my bad. Ill check and find out 2 hours ago, srp365 said: wouldn't be the first set of bad RCAs in car audio... Like @ShadeTreeMechanic said check it with a 3.5mm to RCA cable and your phone to make sure it's getting good signal. ok ill pick one of these up and see if its the RCAs. Appreciate the help ill update when i get them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Also check the voice coils to make sure one isn't wired backwards. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neuspeedescort Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 unplug the sub and test you amps output with your DMM. if it's still registering 10 volts test your RCA's output with them unplugged from the amp. your sub wired right or wrong shouldn't make your amp at full tilt only read 10 volts. that's not to say your sub couldn't be damaged from all this but i don't think it's the root of the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whazoo84 Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Alright so I saw a few things here that tripped me a bit: 1. Voltage is relevant to ohm load. If you have an amplifier that's let's say is rated at 40W RMS output to keep things simple. To pass 40W through 4 ohms, you'd need around 12v to get 40W. Now, if you drop that to 1 ohm, you'd only need 6v to get 40W. So voltage is extremely relevant to ohm load. 2. I saw also someone said if you're getting 10V through a multimeter with, "no load" something could be wrong. Nope! You should still see voltage through the multimeter, as it provides a small load to sense voltage internally. It's perfectly normal to see something on the output, as the amplifier will probably sense the load and allow output. It's the same reason with laptop power supply testing, when they aren't plugged into anything, they won't put out anything. However, it takes as little as 0.5W of load to trip these circuits to turn on the supply. Same applies to the little protection circuits in amplifiers, doesn't take much to trip them. Alright, now 10V through 1 ohm is only gonna get you 100 watts, bleh that's nothing. I've seen this before in amplifiers, they just lock themselves into a voltage for god knows what reason it's different for every one. However, the first thing to do is get an isolated supply of signal, power, etc. Just get a 3.5mm to RCA cord, and put the amplifier on some sort of power supply that will be clean power, no alternator, nothing else connected but the amp. Play it at a low volume and see what happens. Did it get louder and good output? Well then, you have a problem with one of two things: 1. Power Input A few things can effect this: Excessive interference/noise on the incoming power, this could be bad connections, too many devices connected, a faulty device, there's a lot of things. Bad ground or supply, if the connection is dirty, when amperage starts to flow through it, it'll drop the voltage and the amplifier might be only seeing 9v (amplifiers can turn on as low as 8v most of the time). I've used a 9v battery to turn on an amplifier a friend of mine found in the trash, worked just fine to see if it would even turn on. 2. Input signal If the input signal is: too high/low voltage, the input circuit will go into it's own sort of, "lockout mode" where it'll limit itself to doing barely anything or even nothing at all. You could also have excessive noise/interference on the input. There's only so much that can be filtered out, and being next to the power wire really gets to me. The thing is there's a lot more than alternator whine going on there. There's a significant magnetic field by the amount of current being drawn. If that field induces a small current flow, you'll get a lot more shit than alternator whine. You could be inducing a small DC current on an AC line that's destroying your drive circuit slowly and not even know it. However, this isn't likely the case as you're not putting out much wattage, so you're not drawing that much current. What I think is the problem: The 80$ walmart radio. I've never seen Alpine at walmart. While they do sell pioneer radios, you're not gonna get a good one unless it's a DMR (Digital Media Receiver, AKA no cd reader.) DMR radios cost significantly less to produce. I've seen ones with well made internals coming from manufacturers that cost only 25$ to produce (as I source a lot of my components from manufacturers directly, I see a lot of other things offered to me.) However, the CD reader seems to cost a lot more, no idea why. If I were you, I'd just check your wiring, subwoofer impedance, and headunit output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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