Jessica Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 you basing your math on the wrong thing amplifiers create AC voltage. the amperage is determined by the load, dont plug wattage into that calculator you are using and change the load, plug in voltage, like 40v ,then change the resistance between 1 and 4 ohms and watch what the amperage and wattage does. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MADVIBES Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 try this trick, unhook your sub from the amplifiers and use your drill battery to pop test the sub, hook the positive wire to the positive side of the battery and the negative to the negative side momentarily, this should give you a pretty pronounced thump. if it doesnt there are two possibile issues, one the voice is wired back wards on one coil, or your subwoofer magnet didnt get magnetized before it left the factory, yes this has happened and its happened to me. DB DRAG PSYCHLONE PRO 156.3 30 SECOND AVERAGE FO MAX AT 26HZ LEGAL DASH DRIVER DOOR OPEN 158.0@30 HZ MY BEST SO FAR, HOPEFULLY A 160 COME FEBUARY. 156.9@26hz 158.0@30hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverSettle4Midz Posted January 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 17 hours ago, strangeduck said: if you only get 10v from the speaker terminals with no sub attached you might have a serious issues. even a headunit with 1v outputs with the gain cranked that amp should do more. Its a JVC KD-SR60, had it confused with my other cars headunit. ill be picking up the 3.5mm to RCA tonight to test that then go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverSettle4Midz Posted January 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Just tried hooking up another set of RCAs to see if it was just a bad set and i had the same output with both sets of RCAs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Battery pop-test will tell you if it's the sub or not. Like madvibes said. I'd start there. You've ruled out the RCAs it seems, so that leaves the HU, amp, and sub. pop-test the sub, then we'll go from there. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverSettle4Midz Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 5 hours ago, reedal said: Battery pop-test will tell you if it's the sub or not. Like madvibes said. I'd start there. You've ruled out the RCAs it seems, so that leaves the HU, amp, and sub. pop-test the sub, then we'll go from there. Ill try that next....really praying the sub/amp isnt the problem. Would be pretty dissapointed if i bought a sub or amp that doesnt work right. Ill try the pop test tomorrow morning and go from there. Thanks again for all the help everyone. Im determined to get this system bumping!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverSettle4Midz Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Alright so i did the battery pop test and it thumped hard haha...where do you guys think i should go from here? Grounds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Both coils? If so, then I'd make absolutely sure you had your coils wired up correctly. 2007 Pacifica Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 If you hook + to + and - to - then the cone should move out. If it moves in then it is backwards. Do this for both coils one at a time. This will ensure that one is not hooked up backwards. Then get that RCA for your phone to test. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverSettle4Midz Posted January 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 Update!! Redid my grounds and that seemed to be the problem. Sub seems to be pounding now but one more issue im having is when im running full tilt at idle my amp goes into protect mode due to voltage drop. I was hoping the 350amp alt would be enough to maintain voltage at idle but its looking like ill need a backup battery. I just bought a starter battery less than a half of a year ago so i was hoping to just keep that one up front and just run an XS Power battery in the back with the sub as my second battery. What size XS Power Battery would you guys recommend? I really dont want to have to deal with voltage drop at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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