Mack187Murder Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 Ok so watched lots of videos and everyone was pre drilling holes and using drywall screws to put their box together Then I tried to search for how to seal an enclosure and lots people say gorilla glue or liquid nails isn't as good as TITEBOND 3 Premium woodglue. my question. if I built a ported 7 cube enclosure tuned to 27 hz with a 4500 wrms amp powering the 18" sub. What is my best option for building a rock solid box. I'm using Baltic birch 1" thick. Will that tight bond 3 wood glue with dead on specs for my birch and some clamps be able to withstand all that power? is that tight bond glue gonna be what I use to seal all connections ( I will have mitre cuts for the vent) Or do I need to pre drill holes.and use screws. if I use that tight bond shit should I use cabinet makers nails to help add strenfth then rhino liner spray it? I wanted to stain the bal tic birch but thought if that rhino box liner sprayed on it would help seal and strengthen it maybe I should do that. any and all info is appreciated. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wishuponasub Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 Both is the best answer. Are you doing single walled enclosure,double, double baffle? Anyways , the best option is glue AND screw. I know a lot of people use PL. Sitting around waiting to be installed: 4 FI X 10 270 CES alt D3400/73ah lithium AA 3800.1 (2) AA 75.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack187Murder Posted July 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 Double baffle would be a 2" thick face where the driver sits correct? I mentioned that to triticum who's designing my box for me I'll have to ask if that's what were going with . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 I have built so much with titebond3 and brad nails, 100s of boxes, and even walls. If you feel like pre drilling wood which removes material to put a screw in (which may still split the wood) go for it, but I wouldnt recommend it (all it takes is 1 misaligned hole and your piece needs to be redone entirely. Titebond3 and clamping the wood for at least 12hours to 24hours is fine on its own. If you want to speed up assembly brad nail and then clamp for the same period of time. The screws or brad nails dont make the joint strong, its the chemical reaction that penetrates both pieces of wood. Typically the longer of an open time the wood glue has is better since it will get a deeper penetration into the wood. Even without screws the wood is just as strong if not stronger due to the removal of material to install screws which gives less bonding surface for the wood and glue. Two pieces of wood glued together with a quality woodglue will never break on the seams that they are glued together on, they will wither break below the glued seam or in another spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 I rarely use screws. Clamps and/or brad nailer for pretty much everything. The only time I use screw is when I can't clamp something well, in which case I'll use my Kreg jig. Or if I REALLY want something to be strong I'll glue and screw it, after the glue sets I pull the screws out, then I drill out the screw hole to 5/16" or 1/4", then drive in glue covered dowels. It's a fair amount of work, so I only do that if I really think it's needed. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 Great idea using dowels to fill a screw hole! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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