PC Principal Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Depends on the amp, but according to that link on the RF 1500, it is more efficient at 2 ohm than 1, which would indicate that it uses less power. 86.2% @ 4-Ohm 74.6% @ 2-Ohm 63.0% @ 1-Ohm The trade off is that it generally doesnt put out as much power at 2 ohm. This particular amp is pretty close though. 1045 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohms 1549 Watts x 1 @ 2-Ohms 1715 Watts x 1 @ 1-Ohm 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser RF Power T1000 BDCP RF Punch 400-4 2 P2D4 12's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted January 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 1 minute ago, PC Principal said: Depends on the amp, but according to that link on the RF 1500, it is more efficient at 2 ohm than one, which would indicate that it uses less power than at 1 ohm. 86.2% @ 4-Ohm 74.6% @ 2-Ohm 63.0% @ 1-Ohm Yes but thats prob because its putting out less rms at 2ohm..if they showed the efficiency rating using the same rms for 2 ohm and 1 ohm id love to see the result.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC Principal Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 2 minutes ago, akuma4u said: Yes but thats prob because its putting out less rms at 2ohm..if they showed the efficiency rating using the same rms for 2 ohm and 1 ohm id love to see the result.. Correct. Each amp is different though. 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser RF Power T1000 BDCP RF Punch 400-4 2 P2D4 12's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 if you have the same amp doing the same power at 1 and 2 ohms (assuming it isn't some type of constant power type amp) then the power draw should be mostly the same. You would have to limit the output at 1ohm to get similar output at 2ohms. The efficiency loss at 1ohm would be minimized since you are making the amp work well below it's limits. On a side note, I'm not sure you will be able to find amps that are so drastically better in efficiency that you can over come a lack of electrical. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Sounds like you need to finish your Big 3! to start with. Singer alts can build any stock alt to make it HO. This hobby takes money and patients, well more the other way around. As your finding out not finishing upgrades and looking for the cheap way isnt going to work well. Your amp has a rep of being power hungry and they can make dirty power. Your method of setting the gains isn't the best either. and your dependent on the clipping light to tell you what your system is doing. DD-1 was the best tool i own, i know i will be in audio for some time to come so when i bought it 4 yrs ago i knew it was a keeper. I am 46 yrs old and have used it couple dozen times. Love it every time i do. The T1500 is expensive new but you can always find a good used one for half the price. Solid small foot printed power house of a amp. Mine put out close to 2K in 1 ohm. Flawlessly. I know it sucks to have equipment or set up that doesn't make the grade of your goals but that where the patients comes in, stop and asses what needs fixed. Trouble shoot and start with less expensive fixes. Now why does the alt have to come out to finish the big 3? That doesnt sound right. But thats where i would start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted January 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 2 minutes ago, bcbrassard said: Sounds like you need to finish your Big 3! to start with. Singer alts can build any stock alt to make it HO. This hobby takes money and patients, well more the other way around. As your finding out not finishing upgrades and looking for the cheap way isnt going to work well. Your amp has a rep of being power hungry and they can make dirty power. Your method of setting the gains isn't the best either. and your dependent on the clipping light to tell you what your system is doing. DD-1 was the best tool i own, i know i will be in audio for some time to come so when i bought it 4 yrs ago i knew it was a keeper. I am 46 yrs old and have used it couple dozen times. Love it every time i do. The T1500 is expensive new but you can always find a good used one for half the price. Solid small foot printed power house of a amp. Mine put out close to 2K in 1 ohm. Flawlessly. I know it sucks to have equipment or set up that doesn't make the grade of your goals but that where the patients comes in, stop and asses what needs fixed. Trouble shoot and start with less expensive fixes. Now why does the alt have to come out to finish the big 3? That doesnt sound right. But thats where i would start. Singer. Mechman. Ohio gen. I tried all. No one can make one because the casing is too small and there is not enough room. Ohio gen came close and tried hard but he never called me back so im assuming it was a fail. Ill call him again to follow up. On ny car the alt is kinda buried and to access the wiring area it needs to be lifted up..then the connection can be made..finding someone to take it out is the easy part. But finding someone to take it out plus do the wiring and that has a basic understanding of what a big 3 is..well thats the hard part.. What im trying to find out now is how dirty and power hungry this hifonics really is. Cuz if its crazy hungry then its a possibility that a better more efficient amp will not induce clipping so much at 1 ohm and still produce around 2krms...i guess its all about how many amps its pulling at 1 ohm.. The rf t1500 pulling 100amps is very good and i can for sure run that..just need to wait for one to pop up on ebay or elsewhere.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 What year make and model are you working with? Odd Singer couldn't make something work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted January 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 2010 hyundai genesis coupe 2.0t Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC Principal Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Another suggestion on the alternator upgrade; take it out and run it down to an alternator and starter rebuild shop. They should be able to rebuild it to the amperage you request, hopefully. It might be cheaper than Stinger or Mechman as well. This is something I still need to do. 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser RF Power T1000 BDCP RF Punch 400-4 2 P2D4 12's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted January 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Just now, PC Principal said: Another suggestion on the alternator upgrade; take it out and run it down to an alternator and starter rebuild shop. They should be able to rebuild it to the amperage you request, hopefully. It might be cheaper than Stinger or Mechman as well. Thats the first thing i tried..everyone says they can do it but then when they get down to it they tell me they cant. I tried 3 different rebuilders in my area. I think it all has to do with the casing needing to be changed but not enough room to fit a bigger case. I know it sounds doubtful with ne saying no one can do it but feel free to see if u can find any luck im sure u will be told the same thats with rebuilders and perfomance alt remakers. Only 2 that came close were ohio gen and quality power alt. Quality power actually said he could do it but then when i researched the company i read so many negative reviews i backed out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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