Joshdashef Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 Car: Honda Civic Coupe 8th gen The weather permitted about half an hour today to work on this but I am questioning my original grounding location in favor of one that connects to the bolts of my seat or some other place. My original place to ground is about the midway of my car and is the cross beam under the rear seats Driver seat bolt locations Wire/Lugs - Sky High 1/0 If I were to ground my rear battery to the left and right rear bolts of my driver side seat would I create a ground loop and introduce noise/static? or since I am going into a battery to ground I would have no noise/static? My current electrical system will follow this diagram: Any help would be appreciated Cheers SMD Tool Map (2022): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/220267-smd-tool-map-2022/ My Port Size Calculator (in progress): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217087-port-size-calculator-in-progress/ Common Port Walls for a Slot Port: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217076-common-port-walls-why-it-matters-to-your-box/?tab=comments#comment-3240313 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy 8s Drums Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 If there is enough thread to screw your bolt in to that rail in the first three pics I would think that should be fine. It needs to be tightly bolted with at least 3 or 4 turns firmly tapped in. If not, maybe the seat mount bolts would be OK? Orion XTR amplifiers Skar subs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy 8s Drums Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 Why not in the trunk though? Keeping the ground leads as short as possible is ideal. Orion XTR amplifiers Skar subs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshdashef Posted May 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 I just figured since the trunk had so many small connections that I would move the ground further into the vehicle but i'm unsure I use to use one of the bolts just at the beginning of the trunk SMD Tool Map (2022): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/220267-smd-tool-map-2022/ My Port Size Calculator (in progress): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217087-port-size-calculator-in-progress/ Common Port Walls for a Slot Port: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217076-common-port-walls-why-it-matters-to-your-box/?tab=comments#comment-3240313 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalledSonic Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 Do not ground to seats or seat belts. Sometimes they use capture nuts which are not welded to the chassis. This is a common rule. DC grounds wont create a ground loop like youre describing. The more grounds, the better. Less grounds will get you alt noise since the rectifier will have a harder time pushing current out if it cant return efficiently. Theres a reason your stock grounds are redundant (chassis-engine, chassis-batt, engine-batt, etc). Drill a new hole, bolt from underneath, add a nut, or weld it, etc. also, youre better off running longer AND LARGER cable to a further-way GOOD ground location than grounding a shorter wire to a shitty ground point. EDIT: i have a 4/0 ground back to the front battery from the rear battery bank. I added a chassis ground to the rear bank and found that the chassis returned 80% of the current whiel that fat 4/0 only returns 20% of the current. The chassis is surprisingly good at flowing current, despite the fact its NOT copper. Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshdashef Posted May 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 Thanks for that info man I think I'm going to test some areas resistance with a meter and go from there, but do you think I should add another run of 1/0 for grounds? So I have two 1/0 runs for power and three for grounds? or will 2 runs for grounds be enough. SMD Tool Map (2022): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/220267-smd-tool-map-2022/ My Port Size Calculator (in progress): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217087-port-size-calculator-in-progress/ Common Port Walls for a Slot Port: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217076-common-port-walls-why-it-matters-to-your-box/?tab=comments#comment-3240313 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalledSonic Posted May 17, 2018 Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 3 hours ago, Joshdashef said: Thanks for that info man I think I'm going to test some areas resistance with a meter and go from there, but do you think I should add another run of 1/0 for grounds? So I have two 1/0 runs for power and three for grounds? or will 2 runs for grounds be enough. (2) 1/0 grounds and a chassis ground will be plenty. Thats equivalent to my setup and im running 10k on subs alone. Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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