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WalledSonic last won the day on December 6 2018

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About WalledSonic

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    Just Wall It

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  1. I know youre trying to figure out why they dented, but perhaps you can try popping them out with a vacuum attachment. I use the powerful one at the local car wash.
  2. Texas Heat Wave in Austin... Anyone going?
    I wasnt able to finish the enclosure yet, but I plan on showing off the cage work, drinking with audio fam, and get demos all weekend.

    1. onebadmonte


      I'll be there saturday. :)

    2. Kyblack76
  3. Sold a few months back 4700W @ 1 ohm
  4. Hi. I posted a good example outlining how to size/choose a battery here:
  5. Copper stud, steel spacer. Magnet for proof. And they crimp their undersized diodes too. Low quality parts with a relatively high success rate. And when they burn up (which mine did), they replace it FAST. Shipped out Monday, received back home replaced on Friday. I certainly would recommend Singer, CES, and US Alts if you want better components. For recerence, my US Alts uses solid copper stud/post combo.
  6. A singer and 125Ah lithium isnt enough for a 9K. Alt is working overtime, non stop.
  7. "absolute garbage" (non specific, poor description, I'd rather hear why) "late 80s" (30 years ago, times have changed... a lot) "duped" (plenty of koreans do rated power, not sure how reliability and clean sine waves for a reasonable cost is 'duped') "cookie cutter" (shared designs keep cost reasonable, ever wonder why Linear Power amps are so fucking expensive? No one else has Ray's board designs) So, what was his recommendation in terms of what board HE would buy? I am dreadfully curious. *** I agree with the staying away from big surfboards, repair techs dont want to take responsibility of a pricey ass board when you send it in for repair. I also have no problem paying someone a premium for putting up the money to place a 100 board order so that I can have a board that I can wire down to 1/3 ohm daily and never have a problem. Thats what capitalism is all about (think about your battery venture versus JY's or Limitless's offering). Are Rubycon, Panasonic, and Nichicon better components? YES. Are korean caps (samwha, capxon, and samyoung) good enough for bass boards? Absolutely. Are korean caps better than chinese caps (yuscon, vent, and various no-names) in terms of ESR and tolerance over lifetime? Yep, sure are. Your local amp repair guy may have some opinions, but many of his statements are just that... opinions. More than anything, he impressed you enough for you to go to him when your board breaks. $0.02 BTW, i agree with having nice, USA-made, high quality amps sporting Nichicon and Panasonic caps. WalledSonic 3.0 is going to run a significant amount of classic old school wattage...
  8. Fact of the matter, OP's "160Ah @ 48A" cells are probably realistically like "40Ah" or so when used in a car audio application or any with a higher C rate than its used to. The biggest restriction is the input current limit of 3C.
  9. This was an example sir. Not a recommendation. Clearly stated in the explanation.
  10. Lithium with a good C rate (10C or more is desired, but less can work if you size everything appropriately) can support 5KW per 40Ah. I recommend using more Ah/KW, but thats a different argument. Let's assume you're using this 160Ah battery for 5KW, drawing around 480-500A for discussion purposes. Also, I'm referencing the spec sheet in the original link: http://voltronixusa.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/Voltronix-160Ah-Battery-Cell2.pdf First comment: 160Ah at 48A discharge. This battery's C-rate is 48A, so 480A would be 10C. A 5K amp would be right at the limit of the battery, ignoring alternator current. OK, we're fine there. Second note: 480A max continuous discharge current is shown below nominal capacity... perfect, we sized the 5K at 10C, so this confirms that this battery can acceptably discharge at 10C. Super important side note: What happens when a battery is discharged past its C-rate (assuming internal resistance allows that much current flow)? Voltage dips lower than the low-end cutoff voltage. These cells list only an operating voltage of 2.8-4.0, so with 4 in series I can only assume 2.8 per cell (11.2V at bank) is the lowest possible voltage before cell damage. That low-end cutoff is usually somewhere between 8-10V with most lithiums. If your C-Rate causes these cells to dip lower than 11.2V, then thats the limit of these cells. In this case, a 480A (10C discharge being pulled by the 5K, and without alternator input) discharge would dip this bank to 11.2-ish volts. Big side note here. Finally, lets consider the alternator. The specs say the maximum charge current is less than 3C (48A x 3 = 144A). Lets assume you have a 300A alternator, which is an acceptable size for a 5K. 300A is 6.25C. This is double the amount your batteries can take in. Either you size down your alternator (not recommended) or you double your bank to prevent cell damage from charging above its C-Rate. (2) 160Ah banks is way more than necessary for a 5K, but if 2 of those banks is cheaper and lighter weight than AGM, then its a good design choice. Then again, you could hook em up and see how long til they overheat and catch fire. EDIT: just noticed the graphs on page 2. K2 cell spec sheet show actual discharge current versus voltage drop, surprised this company didnt. Says something about how the cells are intended to be used... they arent exactly bragging about their high C rate capabilities. Best of luck sir. Dont catch fire.
  11. Dont forget the most important aspect when evaluating lithium batteries: C-rate for both charge and discharge. Its not always listed but thats the most important performance specification.
  12. Yes but I'm in the middle of a rebuild, currently. Upgrading to a CES 390A along with a laundry list of changes. More to come soon.
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