Unified Single Volume and Bass Knob (for Tesla 3 SQ Build)

[Eggz]

Hi All,

    I'm putting together a sweet 10 channel active system in a new Tesla Model 3 that's fairly complex, and I want to make sure there is a single volume and bass knob.  My favorite so far is the JL Audio DRC-200 because it has both volume and bass control in one unit, but the trick is getting it to work like I want - help!

    There are basically two input groups (via DSP presets) going into a AudioControl DM-810 DSP.  The first is the car's stock signal via high level inputs, and the second is a hi-res source via Optical.  I was thinking to put a JL Audio Fix 86 before the AudioControl DM-810 so the JL unit can control volume, but that will only work for the stock signal.  The Fix 86 doesn't have an optical in like the DM-810 does, so the knob won't be able to control the hi-res source like I need it to in that configuration.  If I use just the DM-810 for everything, I'll have a unified volume knob by using the AudioControl ACR-3 knob but it has no bass knob (i.e. it's just one control, not two).  

    Do you have any ideas for how I can pull off using the JL DRC-200 for everything? 

     The closest thing I can think of will add a lot of cost, and I'd lose two output channels by going from 10 down to just 8.  This would involve putting a JL Audio TwK 88 after the DM-810.  That way the DM-810 could flatten factory signal (like the Fix 86 would have) for the stock signal, which the TwK 88 would then tune with its EQ.  On the hi-res side, the DM-810 would tune audio and then just pass through the TwK 88 without any changes.  With the TwK 88 last in the chain, I would be able to pass everything through the DRC-200 knob, but putting the TwK 88 last means I'd only have 8 output channels rather than the 10 I need coming off the DM-810.  If it were possible to put the TwK 88 before the DM-810, that would be great, but there aren't any high level inputs on the DM-810.  This could technically be solved if I used a Fix 86 before a TwK 88 and then the DM-810, but that seems like such a HUGE waste of money and equipment.  If you could let me know any better idea to get the DRC-200 to work, I would appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks!

-Eggz

[slowfkncar]

The only active & optical capable dsp with an external knob know of is the rockford 360.3 however, its only an 8 channel output which means you would need to run a pair of tweets or mids (L or R) on the same channel which would eliminate the fader.

 

Unless you can find a dsp with the same capability but with a 10 channel output, you might need to buy all those processors just to have it your way, if that's what you really want. 

Having no fader has never bothered me because i feel you shouldn't need to fade an SQ system.

 

 

[Eggz]

The RF 360.3 is a decent unit, but it won't work for my purposes.  

 

The Audiocontrol DM-810 unit I have and linked in the OP has 10 active outputs, so I am going to use one of those (maybe two).  

The signal chain would look something like this:

[For OEM . . . Preset #1]     OEM Source Unit --> (High level in) JL Fix86 (RCA out) --> (RCA in) JL TwK 88 (RCA out) --> (RCA in) AudioControl DM-810 (RCA to amps)

[For Hi-Res . . . Preset #2] USB-to-S/PDIF Converter Dock or Apple AirPlay --> (S/PDIF in) JL TwK 88 (S-PDIF out) --> (S/PDIF in) AudioControl DM-810 (RCA to amps)

[Eggz]

Anyone have any input on how best to run the signal for this? 

__________

Here's the relevant constraints:

Have all volume and bass knob functions run through a single JL Audio DRC-200

14 speaker mounting locations (some 2 way, so potentially more channels if fully active)

Retain OEM source and function as one present

Have hi-fi on second preset

__________

I can have as much complexity as I want behind the scenes, but I want the interface to be as simple and understated as possible with a single knob.