DiBo Posted September 14, 2018 Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 I'd like to learn how. I'm thinking about competing possibly and knowledge is power. Can anyone point me in the direction of clamping for power. I saw a video where Tony did it and it's extremely complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex912005 Posted September 14, 2018 Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 Clamp testing is the way to calculate your amplifiers true output power and the actual impedance being driven, in it’s real environment. Clamp testing, and understanding the numbers it gives, is a must if competing in SPL or interested in getting more performance out of any system. How to Calculate Amp Power and Impedance: You will need a Digital Multi-Meter, AC Amp/Clamp Meter and Test Tones/Signal The Volt-meter/Multi-meter test leads should go directly to the speaker leads from the amplifier. Pick a (-) and (+) to pierce your test leads into. Set your Volt-meter/Multi-meter to AC Voltage and turn on the Peak Voltage feature. The Ampmeter/Clamp-meter should be clamped around only the (+) speaker wire coming from the amplifier outputs. Set the clamp meter to AC Amperage. Turn on the Peak Hold feature. Do not use the test leads of the Ammeter/Clamp-meter in this process. When testing the system for output power and impedance at one specific frequency, test using that single frequency. To know the impedance curve and power curve, test tones from 70Hz down to 20Hz in 5Hz increments. If you don’t have a way of generating tones from 70Hz down to 20Hz, you can download the wav files we have created. 70Hz-20Hz ( in 5Hz increments) If power and impedance numbers for a daily driving system are needed, we suggest warming up the subs and amp to get readings congruent with how the system is normally played, SPL competitors should take readings with coils/amps at room temperature. Roll up the volume at the head unit that is just under clipping indication on the amplifier. The Voltage and Amperage numbers are simply multiplied together to get your Wattage. (P=VI or Power equals Voltage times Amperage). To find out what impedance the amplifier is seeing, simply divide the Voltage by the Amperage. (R=V/I or Resistance equals Voltage divided by Amperage). To plot a power or impedance curve, repeat the previous test for each frequency, i.e. 70, 65, 60, 55, 50Hz etc. The commonly used term “Box Rise” is the sum of the subwoofer(s) impedance and the additional acoustic impedance added by the enclosure and the vehicle. For example, 4 subs wired to a 1.0 ohm load, after running an actual impedance curve, may present a load over 4 Ohms to the amplifier. That 1000w amplifier may be pushing between 200w and 400w of real power. An informative experiment would be to test the box in its normal position, then change the position in the trunk or cargo area. Try moving the port and speaker about 2″ away from boundaries in the cargo area and test it again. The numbers will come out different due to changing acoustic load presented by the new location, affecting the SQ and SPL of your system. For an Ohm’s Law Calculator and other useful tools, try the follwing link. http://www.bcae1.com/ *From DD Audio website. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted September 14, 2018 Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 I thought Tony D. Said clamping wasn’t accurate. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiBo Posted September 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 3 hours ago, MrSkippyJ said: I thought Tony D. Said clamping wasn’t accurate. I saw that video. I was hoping there was a slightly easier way to come up with an accurate number. Amm-1? Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted September 14, 2018 Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 Yep, I think so anyway... F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiBo Posted September 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 8 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said: Yep, I think so anyway... Damn... $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted September 14, 2018 Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 i think the amm-1 cost about the same as a good quality clamp does. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted September 14, 2018 Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 Find someone with an AMM-1. I can almost guarantee someone at the Bullhead show will have one. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted September 14, 2018 Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 I just put the ask out there to see if anyone will have one. Will let you know once I hear back Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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