CstrokerV Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 There’s is a few articles on here about ports and boxes and the correlation between the two you should read them... and I would run an amp at 1ohm and just get a bigger amps... .5 can becomes way to inefficient not to mention can cause cone control issues. If you want to know what power he’s doing right now have him buy an amm-1 lol my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyNameIsNoob Posted March 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 3 hours ago, shredder2 said: I'd plan on replacing those Hifonics with quailty... I'd build something like this... I think wiring to .5 with a good 5K ought to do the trick. That's his call, but I wont be surprised if the amps get an upgrade before summer comes. That design is actually similar to the original one we were gna use, but wanted to relocate the batteries, fuses, etc accessible from the drivers side door, so to keep it all balanced out, a single port common chamber box seemed like the best option. Honestly, thinking ab redoing it all now... only problem is I did it all on paper, except for using the calculators on 12volt.com n took me much longer than I wanted adding up every brace and getting the port volume n box volume to fit in the space I have to work with. What's the program you used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyNameIsNoob Posted March 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 1 hour ago, CstrokerV said: There’s is a few articles on here about ports and boxes and the correlation between the two you should read them... and I would run an amp at 1ohm and just get a bigger amps... .5 can becomes way to inefficient not to mention can cause cone control issues. If you want to know what power he’s doing right now have him buy an amm-1 lol Yea I've picked up alot by searching n reading the posts I can find info on, but for an overly curious person like me I just ended up w more questions by doing so lol I had alot of good detailed articles bookmarked on my laptop, but we had to wipe it, so it's all gone, but I'm always searching for good info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 Go look at triviclums posts he has a lot of good info... and the pinned port one at top is a good one ummmm can’t remember other ones at the moment my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shredder2 Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 1 hour ago, MyNameIsNoob said: What's the program you used? Everything I design is modeled in Winisd, roughed in with Torres, then drawn with Sketchup. Then volumes are re-checked, all displacements subtracted and end-corrections factored in for the final volume/port length then it's re-modeled in Winisd for the final volume/tuning result. That info line is what the sub will "see"... or as close as an enthusiast like me can get it figured. I gave up on using just box calculators about 2 years ago... too much actual information you'll get with modeling is not available with just a box calculator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyNameIsNoob Posted March 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 So after reading a bit more. I decided to make a lil change n added some port area from 16in2/ ft3 to 17in2/ ft3 by adding 1/4 inch to the port width from the box volume. My new specs are 8.25 ft3 net with 1.5 in wall 8.5" x 16.5" x 39" port for 140.25 in2 and about 30.5 hz Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyNameIsNoob Posted March 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 If I draw up my layout, I'd love if anyone can help check my numbers through a program more accurate than my pencil and paper. I'd like some peace of mind of what's actually there if anyone has a lil free time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiBo Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 1 hour ago, MyNameIsNoob said: If I draw up my layout, I'd love if anyone can help check my numbers through a program more accurate than my pencil and paper. I'd like some peace of mind of what's actually there if anyone has a lil free time Why did you go up to 140 in for your port? 39 long also? Just curious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyNameIsNoob Posted March 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 18 minutes ago, DiBo said: Why did you go up to 140 in for your port? 39 long also? Just curious Based on the box calculator I'm using, it says to get 30 or 31 hz, that's what I need. Im trying to play w these numbers, before i start cutting. I did another post in this section about the relationship of box volume n ports n seems that trading a bit of volume for a lil extra port area may be a good idea to help control the port velocity when he upgrades the amps, I dont want to build another box in a cpl months unless its mine lol Also I searched n read a few posts about the X15s n several people saying theirs liked a bit more port area... I'm just trying to get the most out of em, or am i doing the opposite? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiBo Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 35 minutes ago, MyNameIsNoob said: Based on the box calculator I'm using, it says to get 30 or 31 hz, that's what I need. Im trying to play w these numbers, before i start cutting. I did another post in this section about the relationship of box volume n ports n seems that trading a bit of volume for a lil extra port area may be a good idea to help control the port velocity when he upgrades the amps, I dont want to build another box in a cpl months unless its mine lol Also I searched n read a few posts about the X15s n several people saying theirs liked a bit more port area... I'm just trying to get the most out of em, or am i doing the opposite? Check out high voltage car audio on YouTube... He has a build with 4 x12's in a Yukon ( he built it for a customer). It only had 110in² of port area... Subs call for 160. I made a comment that his port area was too small and he quickly LMK why he made the port that small. I'm not going to argue with Triticum as he is more experienced than me. What I will say is, you don't need your port so large. I've ran these subs and the same in 12" versions and rt now I have 4-x12s in my Navigator on 4k ( I actually have 8k but I need more reserve) and my port is 142in² I believe. 18 less than recommended and I'm smashing lows. I'll post a video on my YouTube channel tonight... Dibeezy ThaGifted, ThaFlex Filez. I'll show you what I mean. Triticum is correct about rules of thumb but as you make a few enclosures you start to notice some things. I've built about 18 enclosures in the past year and I've learned a ton ( with triticum help as well as Joe X amongst others) and I've got ported boxes down. They're easy AF to design as well as build once you've done a few. If you're going to give these subs rated or more I strongly suggest 8-8.25ft³ with 120-130in² of port area. Port noise won't be an issue. More than likely the people that suggested going bigger with these subs we're running a lot less power than they thought they were. Just my experience with them. These subs will bottom out in extra large boxes with ports too large. That's when they're saturated with power though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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