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EyeMKermie

Input on new sq build

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Hello Everyone,

 

Looking for a bit of input on my plan for a new sq build.

 

It has been nearly 5 years since my last post and my knowledge/skill level has come a long way.  I went through roughly 10 iterations of a SQ build in the last car which was a b5  Audi A4 Avant.   That car was a horrible platform for a stereo system, but the last version wasn't bad.  Recently got a 4th gen CRV  which seems to be a solid platform for a build.   Here's the build plan.

 

Equipment I'm bringing into the new build:  Zapco st-4xp 4-channel, Minidsp c-dsp 8x12v2, and Fi Q15 (dual 2ohm).

 

The new equipment:

Front stage-  cdt crm-1200 tweeter, cdt crm-3k mid, cdt crm-6k for midbass.  mid and tweet in the pillars. midbass in the door.  I might go with the tweeters in the sails and mid in the pillar, but that I will decide when I have the drivers in my hands and can play with them. 

Rear fill - cdt crm-3k (run 300hz to 3000hz) located in the rear door stock location

sub stage- keeping the FI Q15 sealed in the spare tire area in roughly a 2.2-2.5 cu.ft box. 

Amps-  zapco st-4xp for mids and tweets, 2nd zapco st-4xp for midbass and rear fill.  Scar rp2000.1 for sub duty. 

Dsp- sticking to the minidsp c-dsp 8x12v2

head unit- I'm thinking of going with a kenwood excelon ddx396 double din with the idatalink maestro RR plus my Fiio M9 through spdif for those true sq listening sessions. 

 

power:

I plan to upgrade to a mechman 240 amp HO alt with new battery.  I think it's a group 34 in the car now.  Considering a second battery mounted in the driver rear trunk area. 

 

Plus the usual: big 3, dual 0 guage to the rear, circuit breakers, fuse blocks, ground distribution, and quality RCA's.

 

Sound deadening: roadkill expert on the outer door skins and floors, roadkill ultimate on inner skins, roof, behind the pillars, and trunk floor. plus DEI boom mat spray under the car and in the wheel wells.  Let's face it. Hondas are beer cans on wheels so a lot of treatment will be needed.

 

Let me know what you all think.  Do you think I "NEED" the second battery? Notes on driver choice...  all input welcome. 

 

Should also note I have Peerless xt25-4 (small neo version),  Peerless ne95-4, and Dayton RS180-4 from previous builds that could be used here. 

Edited by EyeMKermie
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I'd take rear fill a little more than that. Maybe 5000-4 or 4.5k. But blending rear fill is pretty hard.  You usually need about 17-20ms in delay for that.  Not sure if the mini dsp has delay that high 

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The minidsp has up to 25ms of delay available per channel.  I've never used the rear fill processing or that much delay with this dsp yet, but I figured since I have all the outputs I might as well give it a shot.  I can always turn it off until I get it to integrate right. 

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Hey everyone,

 

Little update on the plan.  I think I'm going to go with a different front stage setup.  

 

I have a Peerless xt25-4 tweeter , the small frame neo version, that I'm going to keep using.  I found on a class A/B amp it shines.  I used it with some class D amps and it was lacking.  

 

Midrange I have a pair of unused dayton rs100p-4's I may try or go back to using my peerless ne95-4 mids.   I've also thought about taking a chance on the Audible Physics Ram 3a mids, but they seem to lack excursion capabilities at .5mm one way. 

 

I also have a pair of dayton rs180-4's and a pair of rs180p-4 woofers to use.  I've used the rs180 aluminum cones in a previous build and it sounded great.  It struggled a bit with 125w rms from a class D four channel, but I think running them with the 80w class A/B Zapco it should be better.  I plan to use one of these pairs as the midbass in the front.  Unless I find a better midbass option that isn't going to break the bank.  Considering the AudioFrog GS60, but I feel like it might be a wash for output and sq as a midbass.

 

Whatever the midrange ends up being, I'll stick the same in the rear doors for rear fill. 

 

Current crossover plans are:

xt25 run 4k and above

rs100p run 200hz to 4k 

rs180 run 65hz to 200hz. 

 

Need some input on midrange and midbass options. 

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Oh and I could really use some input on sub amps.   

 

More research on that Scar rp2000.1 looks like it has a problem with the protection shut off.  It could be user error, but there are a lot of comments talking about the amp going into protect.  

 

I could use some input on choices for an amp that does rated power reliably.  I'm aiming for 2k rms at 1ohm.   Running my Fi q15 sealed I like to have a bit more power on tap. 

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Building a Sound Quality setup is much more than buying equipment and installing them into a vehicle ...

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Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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16 hours ago, ToNasty said:

Audible physics for life.  And crossover points will depend on power and slope.  It will also depend on staging of the drivers because beaming and roll off will matter

Are you speaking from first hand experience with Audible Physics drivers?

 

These Dayton rs drivers, from my experience, stage pretty well and don't beam nearly as early as other drivers I've used.  I'm less concerned with beaming and roll off as I am with first order reflections.  There is a lot of glass in this car.  

 

And of course, I really won't know what the issues in the car are until it is wired and playing.  Once I have the mid and tweet propped up in temporary pods, I can play with aiming, placement, and spacing to get the imaging and soundstage where I want.  

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3 hours ago, White Lightning said:

Building a Sound Quality setup is much more than buying equipment and installing them into a vehicle ...

You are right.

 

An SQ setup is more than that.  After setting up the electrical system and clearing the vehicle of as many resonance/panel vibrations areas as possible, then the drivers and amps form the foundation of the system.   

 

This car is my daily, so fabrication and speaker placement are limited.  This is not an IASCA SQC Extreme Open competition car.  I have another car I'm building to compete. 

 

My goal is  a great bang for buck daily setup that will spend 80-90% of the time configured for sq and roughly 10% tuned for SQL, different DSP presets.  With the drivers I have the Zapco ST-4XP is enough to get good dynamics out of the drivers without running into excursion limitations at reasonable listening levels. 

 

But I'm still looking for input on drivers.  I'd be willing to spend $100-150 per driver if they made a big enough difference over the daytons. 

 

 

 

 

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