DokJ Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Recently upgraded everything in the car (except for the stock head unit). Have problem of constant high pitch tone through the tweeters (all 4 of them). The tone does not seem to change with engine rpm but it is absent when the engine is not running. Have moved the ground cable and power cable multiple times to try to solve issue - no success. Currently have the ground attached to the mount in the spare tire compartment. It's very hard to find a spot to run a ground wire!!! 2015 Mustang, Stock HU, JBL Club 4505 amp, JBL GX628x2 (rear), Focal ISS 165 doors and pillars (front), Kicker L7R 10" slotted port x1, wired with 4ga power and ground wire 14ga speaker wire - all terminals are terminated with wire ferrules or ring terminals and have heat shrink. Any suggestions please and thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Do you have any power wires running near signal wires for your tweeters? Check power connections at alternator and battery. You're getting ground Loop alternator whine from somewhere.u Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DokJ Posted April 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 I have the power wire that goes to the amp (which is in the trunk) coming off of a 12v accessory in the main fuse block which is located right next to the battery (in the engine compartment) it then goes from there in through the firewall through the main boot (which is on the same side as the battery-behind the glove box area). It comes into the inside there and then I have it running behind the dash/console area then down the driver's side outer edge of the floorboard back to the amp. The only place the power wire comes close to anything else is where it crosses behind the dash area because that's where the head unit is. I have all the speaker wires running from the head unit down the passenger side back to the amp. I will check the connections at the battery again just to make sure. I've attached a picture of the location of where the power wire is in the engine compartment. Thanks for responding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 I would run it straight from the battery you might be getting engine noise that way. Samsung call the guys run their head unit power and ground straight from the battery to eliminate engine noise 2. It's a bitch to track down sometimes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 Grounds need to be to bare metal I like to take the lug that I'm using the ground with and take a gold marker black marker and Trace out the lug and then I like The Grind All That Metal the plug is going to have contact with both it on to that spot and then take some clear coat paint and clear it so that it doesn't rust and corrosion cause issues down the road Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 I want to mention. That is a lot of exposed bare metal from that fuse holder just sitting there in close proximity of grounding surfaces Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 I can see the picture better now that i am on my laptop. Run power from battery not factory fused distribution block, i am pretty sure it's why with the engine not running your system has no issue's. The electrical system on the car can introduce noise to a aftermarket system. And yes your fuse block should always be mounted somewhere solid under the hood near the battery. Never flopping around without a cover on it. Make these changes and update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DokJ Posted April 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2020 OK moved the power wire to the battery. Still have the noise. Here's a pic of the ground and the newly moved power wire. The reason I don't have the wires and fuse holder, etc mounted is because I'm still testing things and was waiting to do all of that until I got everything running right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshdashef Posted April 13, 2020 Report Share Posted April 13, 2020 1 hour ago, DokJ said: OK moved the power wire to the battery. Still have the noise. Here's a pic of the ground and the newly moved power wire. The reason I don't have the wires and fuse holder, etc mounted is because I'm still testing things and was waiting to do all of that until I got everything running right. If you have a multi meter test that ground connection to see if it has a high resistance. If it does find a better ground, avoiding seat belt bolts. SMD Tool Map (2022): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/220267-smd-tool-map-2022/ My Port Size Calculator (in progress): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217087-port-size-calculator-in-progress/ Common Port Walls for a Slot Port: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217076-common-port-walls-why-it-matters-to-your-box/?tab=comments#comment-3240313 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kain91 Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 On 4/5/2020 at 2:24 PM, DokJ said: As you said you have moved the ground and no change. Sounds like more of a phase issue than with the amp. You can check phase with a basic multimeter. Also you didn't mention any blockers. It may be that the tweeter is overloaded. Do you have them in series or on their own channel? I would suggest run them in series with a set of blockers and check for correct phase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.