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subwoofer doesn't seem to hit hard higher the volume


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6 minutes ago, shredder2 said:

Idk your electrical but a 3500w sub on a 4K might be underpowering. Unless you have great electrical /w/ wiring low to get ALL that power you can.

Thats a beast sub /w/ an 8layer coil... I'd be interested to know how that 4K is wired/fed.

He probably got the d2 version instead of the d1.4 version. He is probably wired to 1ohm. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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12 minutes ago, shredder2 said:

Idk your electrical but a 3500w sub on a 4K might be underpowering. Unless you have great electrical /w/ wiring low to get ALL that power you can.

Thats a beast sub /w/ an 8layer coil... I'd be interested to know how that 4K is wired/fed.

As far as your original question goes... your hu is maxed sub level?.. all levels set correctly?.. no BB or boost?... well then... power that sucka.

I still say a strong 5-6k wired down or an 8K @ 1 ohm might be a better choice (with electrical).

An 8k might be too much. Especially when it seems he doesn’t know how to fully run audio gear. I wouldn’t advice him with his knowledge and know how to put that much on that sub. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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And he has a 12” dc level 5. The 15” and 18” are rated at 3500 rms. The 12” are rated at 3000 rms. For his know how, the amp he has now is fine. A lot of people run them on 3k to 3.5k just fine. Check out YouTube. Bigger amps than that and the amp he has are for people who have a good understanding of car audio and know how and experience. I don’t wanna tell that man to get a bigger amp when he doesn’t have enough money for the amp, the alternator he will need for a bigger amp when he said he would have to save up money just for a custom enclosure. I know how it is to sit on the sidelines waiting on a build. I ain’t gonna do that to him. I’m gonna get him bumpin nice and when he gets the extra money then he can upgrade if he wants. He isn’t underpowering that sub. Don’t put that in his head. Because even if he was, and maybe to some people they would say he is, you know how it is to have a setup and thinking in the back of your head all the time did you make the right choice and could you put more on a subwoofer or get a different subwoofer or whatever and it bugs the shit of you and eats away at your audio ago. And plus that amp isn’t going to hurt that subwoofer from underpowering or overpowering (of course). So let’s just help the man with what he has and save him some money cause he seems like he doesn’t have a lot of it, just like most of us. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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36 minutes ago, 1.21gigawatts said:

An 8k might be too much. Especially when it seems he doesn’t know how to fully run audio gear. I wouldn’t advice him with his knowledge and know how to put that much on that sub. 

It’s true, that guy probably doesn’t know enough about car audio to run that and would clip that sub into submission. Don’t laugh. You need to pay attention and agree because from the first post the guy posted I found out about his financial situation and know how. One guy tried to get him to spend almost $1000 (when he doesn’t have the funds) to fix his problem with an alternator and battery and then you want him to spend double that (new amp, new alternator, battery) and risk the damage of his gear because he isn’t that audio inclined. You not only wanted the dude to spend funds he doesn’t have but you wanted him to risk his gear on top of that and lose money he doesn’t have. He doesn’t have the money to get the shit so why continuously throw suggestions at him that he can’t afford and doesn’t know how to do and just stick to reality and help him with what he has? There are people running dc level 5 12” subs on 1500 rms daily just fine. Like I said. Check out YouTube. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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22 minutes ago, 1.21gigawatts said:

It’s true, that guy probably doesn’t know enough about car audio to run that and would clip that sub into submission. Don’t laugh. You need to pay attention and agree because from the first post the guy posted I found out about his financial situation and know how. One guy tried to get him to spend almost $1000 (when he doesn’t have the funds) to fix his problem with an alternator and battery and then you want him to spend double that (new amp, new alternator, battery) and risk the damage of his gear because he isn’t that audio inclined. You not only wanted the dude to spend funds he doesn’t have but you wanted him to risk his gear on top of that and lose money he doesn’t have. He doesn’t have the money to get the shit so why continuously throw suggestions at him that he can’t afford and doesn’t know how to do and just stick to reality and help him with what he has? There are people running dc level 5 12” subs on 1500 rms daily just fine. Like I said. Check out YouTube. 

I digress once someone quotes himself... you da man!

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7 hours ago, shredder2 said:

Enclosure issues aside for the moment, you have a Lvl5-12 on that Aak-4000.1 wired to what impedance?

My Aak 4000.1 does well at .5 but for my use its better suited to a 1.5K-2K 3" coiled sub.

Electrical 1st though

This thing would have a 5-6K on decent electrical wired down in my car...

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I was 1500 watts or so on burps wired 1 ohm with my Aak 4000.1 but after wiring lower its in the 3K clamped range burping now.

Nice lil' sub... now to feed it

I got the D2 wired to 1 ohm

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5 hours ago, 1.21gigawatts said:

Check this battery out. It’s 123ah and lasts for 10 years if maintained (charged) correctly. It’s an agm. I use data safe batteries too. They are cheap and last a long time and do the job. 
 

https://www.osibatteries.com/p-917-enersys-datasafe-12hx540-fr-battery-12v-540w-non-spillable.aspx

I do appreciate the help. The battery i got now is a 105ah with a 150amp alternator but I do plan on running a 2nd battery, I already have most of the stuff I need to run a 2nd battery just need the battery. 

Also I did start on my big 3 ( 1/0 ofc ) just didn't finish because it got too cold out. I got the 1/0 running from alt to battery + and battery ground to body and frame, I just need to run one from battery negative to engine.

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8 hours ago, shredder2 said:

Idk your electrical but a 3500w sub on a 4K might be underpowering. Unless you have great electrical /w/ wiring low to get ALL that power you can.

Thats a beast sub /w/ an 8layer coil... I'd be interested to know how that 4K is wired/fed.

As far as your original question goes... your hu is maxed sub level?.. all levels set correctly?.. no BB or boost?... well then... power that sucka.

I still say a strong 5-6k wired down or an 8K @ 1 ohm might be a better choice (with electrical).

Dual 1/0 ofc. no bb or boost and I believe the levels should be correct, I watched a YouTube video that Steve made on how to set it the only thing is I didn't go max volume before  Distortion which max volume before distortion was 39.

The only thing I'm not sure about is maxed sub level? On my radio I got speaker level that ups or lower the db to each speaker plus the subwoofer and that's set to 0, other than that there is only crossover and subwoofer on or off.

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