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Old Timer in need of help


d luv

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Hey fellas my son has asked me how to modify his current enclosure and I wanted to check with the experts before doing any mods. He is not impressed with his lows on certain songs and wants to improve the box, looking to get around 30hz. I have attached a picture of his current box with dimensions to this post. I know a bigger box would be ideal but he uses his cargo space a lot and does want to sacrifice any more space so I need to be able to work with what he is currently using. My question is how what size piece of wood should I add to each current L port to achieve better lows? I assume I would add the piece/bend  to the L and have it going back towards the speaker making it more of a “U” shape or do I add just add the piece  to the current L and not add another bend? Thanks to all that can help Dad not looking like a fool. 

FC11E5A1-035D-4311-9777-35749EE8534E.jpeg

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Might be possible to modify it but I think its more trouble than its worth... however if your up to it I would delid it. Remove the top piece of wood to get a look inside the enclosure so you can properly attach pieces inside to lengthen the port, also lowering the tuning. You could achieve this with a skill saw and a flat fence clamped on the box with some patience.

 

However, adding wood inside the box will lower the internal net volume... can be a problem for output. A good box with a single sub is better than two similar subs in a choked off box any day of the week.

 

What subwoofers? amps are you running?

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6 minutes ago, Joshdashef said:

Might be possible to modify it but I think its more trouble than its worth... however if your up to it I would delid it. Remove the top piece of wood to get a look inside the enclosure so you can properly attach pieces inside to lengthen the port, also lowering the tuning. You could achieve this with a skill saw and a flat fence clamped on the box with some patience.

 

However, adding wood inside the box will lower the internal net volume... can be a problem for output. A good box with a single sub is better than two similar subs in a choked off box any day of the week.

 

What subwoofers? amps are you running?

He is running 2 12 JL W7’s on an older 2000watt rms Hifonics D class amp, Brutus maybe but I may be wrong on the model. 

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I can help you with that. More port length is what you’ll need. If it’s an “L” formation then you can extend the port outside the enclosure to lower the tuning. If it’s a straight formation then you can extend the port on the inside as long as it stay the same distance away from the back wall as the width of the port. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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5 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

I can help you with that. You will have to make an extension piece for the current “L”. But it has to be done a certain way to work and not mess up the port width on the second part of the “L” that you would add to. And on the diagram shown, that port doesn’t have an “L” formation. I need more information and/or possibly a better diagram with measurements of the port walls so I can calculate the effective port length. 

Thanks for the help. The thickness of the port piece is 1” X 12.5 height x 13.5 long.

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9 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

I can help you with that. More port length is what you’ll need. If it’s an “L” formation then you can extend the port outside the enclosure to lower the tuning. If it’s a straight formation then you can extend the port on the inside as long as it stay the same distance away from the back wall as the width of the port. 

I typed that first one too quick before I thought it through. That won’t work. But this new edited one will. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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2 minutes ago, d luv said:

Thanks for the help. The thickness of the port piece is 1” X 12.5 height x 13.5 long.

That doesn’t make sense and contradicts the graph you posted. I need better and more accurate specs. How long are the port walls and what thickness wood is the enclosure made out of?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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How about this, forget all that mess, I know you can do wood work, so how bout I design you an enclosure and make you a plan and a cut sheet so you can build him a new enclosure that will make him happy as a little kid?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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3 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

How about this, forget all that mess, I know you can do wood work, so how bout I design you an enclosure and make you a plan and a cut sheet so you can build him an enclosure that will make him happy as a little kid?

He’s currently at his Moms so I can’t measure sorry. I text him and he said the pre fab box he bought is BBox E12DSV and states is 1” thick wood with other dimensions of 30”W x 13.75”H x 17.25”D with a vent width of 2.75” and is a straight port and not an “L”  sorry, had L port on my mind as I thought the additional material would result in an L port. I would like to modify the current port but if you think I could make him another box of the similar outer dimensions that would sound much better than I am not against that either. I know he just doesn’t want to give up more cargo space though. Again thanks for you insight And help 

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4 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

That doesn’t make sense and contradicts the graph you posted. I need better and more accurate specs. How long are the port walls and what thickness wood is the enclosure made out of?

Because if the thickness is 1” and the enclosure having a height of 13.25” then the port would be 11.25” in height. And if it were .75” then the port would have a height of 11.75”. Your graph is contradicting and so is the measurements you are telling me. I can’t help you if I don’t know what I’m working with. Even the graph above says the port height is the same as the enclosure height and that’s impossible. And it says the outer depth of the enclosure is 17.25” and the inner depth of the enclosure is 16.5”. The only way that’s possible is if the the wood thickness is 3/8” and if that’s so then he needed a new enclosure anyways because that wood would be too thin and would flex too much and take away from the output. I’ve heard of 5/8” enclosures for small builds but I’ve never heard of 3/8” enclosures. You need to post better information, more information and more accurate information. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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