Stefanzoh Posted June 15, 2020 Report Posted June 15, 2020 In preparation for my new setup I did the big 3: +Alt to +battery -Engine to chassis - Battery to chassis Kept factory grounds n just ran new grounds. Which leads me to think that there's a problem with my positive cable on my alt? Anybody experience this? How can I fix?
SnowDrifter Posted June 15, 2020 Report Posted June 15, 2020 Did you remove any stock wiring? Where are you measuring your voltage from? Any loads on the system? Does your vehicle have any smart charging / current clamps? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
Stefanzoh Posted June 16, 2020 Author Report Posted June 16, 2020 On 6/15/2020 at 1:19 AM, SnowDrifter said: Did you remove any stock wiring? Where are you measuring your voltage from? Any loads on the system? Does your vehicle have any smart charging / current clamps? Only thing removed was the alternator charge cable so I could put the 1/0 on. Ideally I'd keep the stock but there is no way that both are fitting, I just tried. https://gyazo.com/97581ecd4e153148b1cabc8141cd501e - voltage fluctuation, not as drastic as it usually is. Car is warmed up and idling with all major draws turned off. https://gyazo.com/80e2d583417c8be57260c945eecaa965 - alternator positive connection - no it is not touching any of the chassis/engine. It is a 2008 lexus, not a electric/hybrid car. Is it possible that the ECU is trying to limit the amount of current flow? Do you think that the lug hole size being too big could be causing this?
Stefanzoh Posted June 20, 2020 Author Report Posted June 20, 2020 For anyone that is having this same problem in the future it seems like putting a more snug fit lug on the alt bolt is working. Used a 1/4 to be exact.
Dlotten Posted August 5, 2020 Report Posted August 5, 2020 I'm having problems with my big 3 as well in my dodge challenger, any advice on doing it correctly, I have alt case to ground and alt power to battery do i need to do engine block to ground as well?
Brick20 Posted August 8, 2020 Report Posted August 8, 2020 I grounded the alt, the block, the frame and the firewall of the engine bay. You cant go wrong that covers all of the areas
AaronT Posted August 8, 2020 Report Posted August 8, 2020 Put factory alt charge cable back on. Make it work, every car I dug big 3/4 in I was ae to keep factory alt cable
GWARDO420 Posted August 9, 2020 Report Posted August 9, 2020 The stud on the alt should fit the stock wire plus a lug no problem. That's weird. The Quiet WJ Build Headunit: Sony DSX-A415BT Mids/Highs: (2) Skar FSX8 || (2) Skar FSX65 || (4) Skar 3.5 Super Tweeters Amplifiers: Taramps 8000.1 || Kicker 125.2 Subwoofers: (2) 12 Inch Orion HCCA's Around 50ft of 1/0 has been ran so far. Still under construction.
slybu Posted August 12, 2020 Report Posted August 12, 2020 i replaced factory ground wires in my car, i cant believe they were just 10 awg skinny stuff. used 4 gauge from battery to chassis and from there to engine block. massive difference seen. car cranks and fires up instantly no more chugging. also electric windows went up and down faster. even when driving it feels like it has more torque at lower revs, odd.
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